Wine Impressions - 1-28-19
Bubbles:
1984 Lauer, Sparkling Riesling - not my style but very much enjoyed by others. To me, it felt tired and aged without development.
N/V Roederer, Brut - always reliable and always good. $20.
Whites:
2015 Claude Branger, Muscadet Le Fils des Gran Moutons - brilliant; crisp and crystalline with fine fruit and length. Joyous stuff.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - skin-fermented; brass color, tangerine skin nose and flavors of marmalade, chalk and citrus all in a bright, mouth-watering package. At a good place now; makes me wonder what another six years will bring.
2014 Dom Chisciotte, Fiano - skin-fermented and atypical to the variety but blossoms into life when served with seafood. Such a change, from dull to brilliant, all because of shrimp.
2017 Collio di Lapio, Fiano - clear, clean, typical and simply terrific. Love this wine!
2015 Birichino, Chenin Blanc Jurassic Park Vineyard - lightweight, energetic and lip smacking. Pretty, pretty, pretty . . .
1996 Lopez de Heredia, Blanco Vina Tondonia - touch of oxidation, remarkable breadth, hint of caramel and lots of layers. The old whites from this house are always instructive.
2016 Droin, Chablis - showing young but opens over the evening to be worthy of its AOC. (Aside: after having several different Chablis at the village, premier cru and grand cru levels from several different producers, I surmise that this vintage requires time in the cellar.)
2008 Lopez de Heredia, Blanco Vina Gravonia - similar to the ‘96 Tondonia noted above but fresher and showing less caramel. So very good.
Reds:
2017 Harrington, Cabernet Franc Cedar Crest Vineyard - from up near Mt. Lassen, this has a lifted, slightly volatile nose, rich fruit, no green notes and lovely balance.
2009 Prunotto, Barolo Bussia - young but light in the mouth until the tannins clamp down. Over the evening it gains flesh and sustain. Nice wine.
2014 Katsaros, Valos - 100% Xinomavro from slopes near Mt. Olympus in northern Greece. Grippy but not drying, flavors and aromas that remind me of Trousseau. Well made and seems to handle its tannins which are often aggressive in this variety. Wonderful with pizza.
2015 Leroy, Bourgogne - all structure at the moment with only a bit of fruit showing through - Hold.
2011 Alaine Verset, Cornas - oh my goodness, yes! Everything good Cornas should be with more fruit and polish than Noel Verset’s wines. On the several occasions I’ve had Noel’s wines (prior to their price inflation), I thought them good but a bit rustic. This bottle is more to my taste; less cigarette ash, more balance, broader fruit and yet it retains that sauvage element that makes Cornas my favorite Syrah. An eye opener for me and a delight.
2017 Colombera & Garella, Vispavola - spicy, grippy and lively; a medium weight, earthy red that is easy to drink.
2016 Birichino, Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard - lightweight, almost diaphanous stuff with intensity and more finish than one expects. Memorable.
2012 Alessandro Rivetto, Barolo Lazzarito - balanced, grippy but lightweight Nebbiolo that makes me wish we had more. Yum.
2016 Jean-Marc Pillot, Bourgogne Les Grandes Terres - a bit odd aromatically; not bad or off but unusual; but nice in the mouth with medium weight, a nice crunchy edge to the fruit and good depth.
Best, Jim