2002 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets
Enjoyed with dinner over two evenings. This bottle is shut down hard. Just a hint of black cherry and maybe mint. The structure has come out and it has lost the sappiness I remembered from the last bottle 10 years ago or more.
Quite elegant, as Caillerets should be, and aromatic. But the structure is forefront now.
Purchased from Becky Wasserman on release, and stored in a very cold cellar - this wine needs many many more years. But undoubtedly a great climat from a great producer.
Believe he had purchased these vines just a year or two before this vintage. Would love to try Lafarge with considerably more age on it. Don’t believe I’ve had anything pre 1993.
Your post just reminded me of how inherently goofy this hobby is … buying a wine roughly 15 years ago and sitting lovingly on it like a hen on an egg. And still many, many miles to go before you can approach it. It’s like raising kids – a leap of faith that it will all turn out OK in the end!
Interesting note. Thanks. We tasted some '02 Volnay’s just before the new year and they seemed more closed and structured than at any other point since release. Don’t know if it was a particular poor day (root or leaf day) but the champagnes that day were wonderful.
Not enough data to make an assumption, but your note reminded me of the surprise we had.
I had the 06 maybe 5 years ago and it lacked the elegance I associate with Volnay. It was big and rough and not particularly pleasant. Only bottle I’ve had, served at a dinner with other 06s. YMMV of course.
Last week I had a De Montille Taillepieds 2002 which was open and an absolute joy to drink.
Both producers are very traditional and the vineyards not very far away from each other. Well, Burgundy I guess…
Yes, would love to know how they’ve progressed. I’ve got a little bit of 06 from various producers I’ve been hesitant to open. Please post when you get around to trying one.
As a relative newcomer to this hobby, I had exactly the same thought. It seems like once you miss the initial primary fruit window to try a wine, you could be waiting for quite some time before it comes back around.
Yup, this is why I have such a large cellar. I like old wine. So every January I go to unpack wine in storage and I realize none of them are ready for my palate. So back to storage they go.
I’ve long looked at Lafarge as the Gouges of Volnay. Whether it’s just bad timing or the wines…they never seem to be ready/showing well…And, i’d place no bets on what happens with the panacea “more time.”
I have to admit your comparison to Gouges strikes me a worryingly right. Nicely put. We popped and poured, which got us nowhere. Then we let it sit in the bottle for a few hours. Which got us nowhere. Then we refrigerated in the same bottle and tried again the next evening. Which got us nowhere. I have many friends that LOVE Lafarge - so I am holding out hope for this one. But won’t open another bottle for years.
Interesting. I love Lafarge and I love Gouges. But I do find old school Gouges impenetrable in a way that is challenging, while Lafarge is always charming and complex to me, just with some sharp edges. I do think that Gouges, like Faiveley, has gotten more approachable and better in recent years. For my palate Lafarge has always been exceptional.
Hi Ryan. From what ~year do you think Gouges has become more approachable? I probably haven’t had a Gouges since the 2005 vintage. I haven’t had the guts to open a 2010.
And curious which Lafarge you’ve enjoyed, like so many of my friends. Maybe some are more approachable?
Volnay
Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées
Beaune 1er Cru Aigrots Rouge
Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
Volnay 1er Cru Mitans
Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets
Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs
Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
I’m not sure when Gouges made the change but it was certainly by 2009. My impression is that the LSG is still made in a somewhat sterner style, but the 1ers are more plush and approachable. Gouges killed it in 09 and 10 especially and has been on a roll ever since. The Porrets is the sweet spot for me but I adore the LSG.
I really like Lafarge’s whole lineup. I buy the Volnay VS every year it’s made and it’s consistently great. The '14 recently was excellent, and the '12 Volnay AOC (no VS made in '12) is special for the level. Of the higher crus, I mostly buy the Ducs/Chenes/Caillerets, like everyone else, because in my view they are some of the world’s best wines. But they are angular and can be challenging young. In my admittedly limited experience, the Mitans and Greves can be more approachable, and every time I have one I wonder why I don’t buy more.
Unfortunately Lafarge has been creeping up in price, and I fear it will only get worse. Top-tier Volnay and Pommard may be one of the next areas to vault completely out of reach.
Nice to have this report. Yes, Lafarge takes a long time to come around, but it’s not hopeless and given enough time they are wonderful. the 1998 clos des Chenes was gorgeous 2 years ago, as was the 96. 93 clos de chateau des Ducs was actually showing pretty well when I last had it 5 years ago. Love to try some other 93’s at this point, but have to rely on friends for this as I don’t have any. It needs lots of air/time to show, and all of these wines had 3-5 hours of air prior to being consumed (by this I mean most were double decanted 3-5 hours ahead of time.)
For me the classic Gouges of Volnay historically was deMontille in it’s old-style iteration (up until 96 or so). I’ve really never had one that was mature enough. Still have a bottle of the 1993 bourgogne that I’ve been afraid to open, as it’s likely not ready yet. Style changed in late 1990’s at some point and they are much more approachable now.
I think it changed in mid=90s when Etienne pretty much took over at deMontille.
glad to hear about Lafarge…never had a great one though …and once visited lafarge (2001)…everything at the winery tasted raw and tannic, including the '99s and one older one Frederic opened…very frustrating visit…then went to deMontille where things were, surprisingly, much better…d’Angerville also quite good that visit.
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