TN: 2005 Dominique Laurent Clos de la Roche

  • 2005 Dominique Laurent Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (1/19/2019)
    Looked a bit ‘Leroyesque’, with a big, smoky nose and waves of deep and luscious fruits. Fruit flavours vacillate between red and black and there’s plenty of flora. It is layered, creamy, rich and powerful, with outstanding drive and length. Really delicious.

Posted from CellarTracker

Nice Jeremy. Thanks for the check in.
This sounds really great and pretty open already.
I have some Laurent in '05, mostly Cailles and Sentiers. Took a Sentiers for a spin a year or so ago and it was not yet ready for business. Maybe take another peek soon. Cheers.

Jeremy,

I am also a fan of 2005 Dominique Laurent’s. We have consumed something like a case of Gevrey-Chambertin VV and some Nuits Vaucrains VV over the last decade or so, which were all richer than average but driven by the terrific drive and, indeed, piercing quality so many 05s have.

We’ve held off on drinking any of the higher wines, but will have to open one soon.

I have a few Grand Cru 2006s I purchased on release, but have never opened one. Have you tried any of his 06s I wonder?

Hi Jeremy,

I own a bottle of this. Is it totally open for business, or do you think there is still some upside? I expected it was too young, but from your note it sounds ready to go.

Thanks in advance!

Absolutely open for business right now Joshua. Probably a bit of upside but very complex and delicious and you shouldn’t be disappointed opening soon.

Although Steve Tanzer continues to review current vintages of Laurent, it is not that common to read reviews of how older vintages are doing over time. Many of the wines are quite reasonably priced for premier and grand cru Burgundies, not escalating in price even for older top vintages as so many wines have done.

Hi Andrew,

I don’t recall having an '06. I’ve been served quite a few Laurent wines blind over the years and they always show well. They were quite expensive here, in comparison to their peers, 10-15 years ago. Don’t see many of them around these parts anymore.

Cheers
Jeremy

seems I made a mistake ignoring this ex-pastry chef. All the hyperbole about 200% new oak and that “no wine is overoaked, just underwined,” scared me away.

I looked back at my old Tanzer reviews and he didn’t review this wine in the 05/06 issue, but loved the Bonnes Mares, CV, and Suchots.
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The 95 and 96 Dominique Laurent “Series Rare” were hard to get. Once loved now forgotten. I totally get “Leroyesque” comment. Thanks for the update Jeremy!

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His '96 Bonnes Mares was one of my WOTY last year, and I am holding on to an '02 to open down the road. The BM was genuine GC, with that kaleidoscopic complexity of spice and flavor I only find in the best instances of these wines.

Was it Intra Muros?
Thanks for reporting on Laurent

Its funny. You never hear complaints about 100% new oak when the talk is about DRC, Rousseau, First Growth Bordeaux etc. Complaints like this come up only when so called lesser wines are discussed. Even when the “lesser” wines are Second Growth Bordeaux such as Leoville Poyferre etc.

Dominique Laurent makes really great wines IMO. His 2017’s tasted really great from barrel and the aged examples have been often the top wines on our tastings, eg his Grands-Echezeaux 2002 was the winner of a 2002 Vosne serie including Cros Parentoux from Rouget, several Richebourg and a leroy Beaux Monts. Dominique sometimes prefers not to let people taste his wines from barrel as the ‘prise de bois’ is different than other winemakers as he calls it himself.

We don’t see them here in LA either, Jeremy. Mine were from the long ago days of Premier Cru when they were actually coming through. 06 is the last vintage I’ve ever seen. But agree that they are delicious and the negative press was undeserved at the time.

true but he touted 200% new oak.

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Alan, from Mar 2007 review:

2005 Dominique Laurent Clos de la Roche
Saturated, bright red-ruby. Very ripe aromas of black plum and dark chocolate. Silky on entry, then dense and sappy in the middle, with a rocky impression of energy. This builds and expands toward the back, saturating the palate with crushed stone and minerals. Wonderfully chewy Clos de la Roche with great potential.

– Stephen Tanzer 92-95

Just popped one, after reading Jeremy’s initial post. He was right on target, really showed well. I got strawberry and a range sweet and savory spices at the start, moving to darker fruits, brambles and a lovely long finish, though no “crushed stones,” I must admit. True GC level and a memorable quaff. No hurry, of course, will only improve, but, for sure, in a good place.

I opened a 1995 last night. A wonderful expression of red fruited, fully mature CdN GC. Oak fully integrated, and playing a supporting role rather than anything more assertive. Still plenty of life ahead.

Whenever I open an older Dom Laurent, I am more than pleasantly surprised.

As a negotiant/eleveur…he was able to cherry pick great vineyards and producers…and did so. It’s hardly surprising that they’ve turned out well. He bought barrels of wines and “raised” them in his cave. A lot easier than farming grapes or making wines…I’d think.