1995-Tasted from an ex-château bottle at BI Wine & Spirits Calon-Segur dinner in London. The 1995 Calon-Segur was the vintage that raised the profile of this estate and heralded the start of the late Mme Gasqueton’s era. At 20 years of age, it shows no signs of reaching the end of its plateau. Far from it. It has an endearing bouquet that still seems youthful: brambly red fruit, asphalt and a light marine influence. Allowing the wine to open, there is a subtle winegum scent. The palate is medium bodied with supple tannin, impressive depth and backbone, the second half having mellowed in recent years, rendering this approachable; hints of secondary truffle and smoke notes emerging with aeration. It has been several years since I last tasted this wine, but it is one that seems to become more and more impressive with age. Robert Parker rightly lauded this Calon-Ségur at the time of release. Twenty years on, it is fulfilling all its promise. Drink: 2015 to 2045. Last tasted 3/15. Rating 94. NM
<><><>&<><><>2001-Tasted at the chateau at their “-1”vertical, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. The 2001 Gruaud Larose has a very attractive, quite fleshy bouquet with ebullient crushed raspberries, mulberry, allspice and a touch of cumin. Good definition and vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with quite thick, chewy tannins that perhaps lack the finesse that more recent vintages have demonstrated. Very good weight, a little grittiness coming towards the finish with notes of tar and cedar beginning to usurp the primary fruit. This 2001 (like many in its alumni) is in its transitional stage. Very fine. Drink: 2013 to 2020. Last tasted, 4/11. Rating, 90. NM
<><><>&<><><>2000-The 2000 Château Grand Puy Lacoste is an exceptional wine from Xavier Borie. It has a brilliant nose of blackberry, crushed stone, graphite and cedar. Putting it to one side for ten to 15 minutes reveals subtle mint like aromas that whisk you straight to Pauillac. The palate is smooth and silky, cloaking the tannic frame of this GPL so that you barely notice it. But that will stand it in good stead for the long term, the cornerstone of all great wines from this estate. Then there is that hint of spice on the aftertaste, the show ain’t over yet. Served alongside a magnum of Pichon Baron 2000, I would say that at the moment, it does not quite possess the same level of precision. However, it remains a magnificent Pauillac to cherish long term. Drink: 2020 to 2045. Last tasted, 1/16. Rating, 95. NM
<><><>&<><><>2000-Tasted at the vertical in London, the question was whether the 2000 Montrose would be paradigmatic of a vintage whereby the wines have remained sullen and broody in their youth. On this occasion, to my surprise I found it more open than the 2005 (which admittedly is not saying that it’s open for business!). It is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot picked from 22 September to 7 October. I afforded it a couple of hours in the glass and it responded with plenty of pure ripe blackberry and raspberry fruit, hints of cold slate and even charcoal emerging with time. The palate is not as complex as the aforementioned 2005, yet there is wonderful backbone and focus; towards the finish there is a sense of suppleness and refinement that might make this absolutely delicious in 5 to 7 years’ time. Perhaps the 2000 has been usurped by subsequent releases in 2005, 2009 and 2010, but do not be surprised if it evolves into a regal Montrose. Drink: 2023 to 2060. Last tasted, 6/16. Rating, 94+. NM
It appears that Neal Mollen et al, approves/agrees with critic, Neal Martin!
Enjoy the Calon-Segur and Gruaud-Larose, of course, the food selection should be considered.
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