A few TN: Tschida, I Clivi, Halcon

I have been remiss. Had a terrible cold for three weeks and couldn’t smell at all. My wife, the ENT, scoped my nose, told me she’s surprised I could smell at all, said I needed surgery and put me on steroids and antibiotics. Now I’m able to smell again and celebrated by opening a few geeky bottles to give my olfaction and swift kick in the ass.

2016 Christians Tschida “Hummel auf Erden” Rouge
This took about three days to mellow, starting with a very Chinon like funk and pyrazine feel then eventually, over 2-3 days, becoming more crystalline Zweigelt/Blaufrankish with a medium-light body but crunchy red/dark berry fruits. An interesting transformation and a lovely wine. I like his Red Sonja a bit better, but this is a lovely, if overall light, wine with lots of nuance.

2013 clivi Galea Merlot
This is 100% organic, indigenous yeast, stainless aged Friulian merlot. 70+yo vines. There is a bit of plummy fruit but this is predominantly earthy, with chalk and crunch and sous bois. Acidity is ample and mouthwatering, and the tannins are slightly drying as you might expect from an Italian-and-not-Californian merlot. Without the oak, it’s hard to compare to most Right Bank for me, but I love the earthiness here. This may be the essence of Italian Merlot, even if some think the essence of Italian Merlot is highly oaked Tuscan dreck. But that’s just my $0.02.

2016 Halcon “Elevacion”
Whole cluster does good things for Cali Syrah. This is a more mineral and less dense version of Myriad Ester Block whole cluster. Tons and tons of flower and white pepper but not too much meat/bacon/olive. While the aging is neutral oak puncheon, there is a slightly cedars note Medium-light in body and amply acidic, this drinks very well now, with a light coat of chalk on the back palate.

Noah

Glad the Elevacion showed well. The 100% whole-cluster has created a very elegant wine that is a little more approachable earlier when compared to the Alturas (50% WC) from the same vintage. I also like that bit of carbonic character that gives a pop to the fruit.