Have you ever found an OLD ’el cheapo’ wine, perhaps an orphan in your cellar; maybe you received as a white elephant gift or it was a left-over from a non-wine geek party…that totally surprises you with vitality, years later?
Mine?
An 11 year-old cheapie.
2007 Pets Clarksburg Petite Sirah-$5.99 @ TJ’s in 2008.
Screwtop.
Last year, I found 5 of these in the back of my cellar. 2 have been shit. The other 3 have had surprisingly fresh dark fruit, quite good acid and tannin, and a satisfying finish. I’m drinking the last bottle now.
I think that the screwtop helped in its longevity.
What about you?
1996 Goisot Bourgogne Aligote was $8.99 when I bought it on release. Aging it was an intentional experiment. Deliciously spiced, textured, and vibrant but hints of oxidation (which were still at the stage of adding complexity) in 2016.
Domaine de Fontarney Margaux 1974 tasted October 2018.
Bought back in the 80s (for around $10 in today’s money) by my father and stored in a natural cellar since.
Crystal clear, light ruby color with slight orange edge.
Lovely precise notes of meat, tea leaves and wet forest floor.
Served it blind with no expectations for 8 very skilled tasters - all guessed Chateau Margaux or Palmer in the 70-
80s.
I suppose it becomes a question of definitions. I thought of 1996 Domaine d’Andézon Côtes du Rhône as a cheap wine and it was $9.99, as was 1997 Pepiere Clos des Briords. Good premier cru white Burgundies from the 1996 vintage were generally in the $30 to $60 range. Unfortunately I didn’t buy any of the 1996 Goisot Aligote, though I loved the St.-Bris.
Premier Cru used to sell some old, cheap one-off bottles that I’d take flyers on. I remember an $8.99 1993 Giacosa Barbera that was stunning. I also recall a $4.99 1996 Chassagne Montrachet from a random producer that was shockingly fresh and delicious.
In 2015 I found an ‘06 Chamisal Chardonnay around ($25 I would imagine) that got lost in some double deep racking, I was sure it would be doa. It was great, dead ringer for aged white burgundy.
Although it has been discussed before, some old Riojas can age gracefully even though they are grocery store level wines. One that comes to mind is Campo Viejo. Can easily be found for less than $10. I bought a large parcel of original cases of 1973 a year ago and they are astonishingly good even if the label raises some eyebrows.
I had another bottle of this a few years later and it was even better. I think I have one left somewhere.
2002 Bodegas Borsao Campo de Borja Borsao- Spain, Aragón, Campo de Borja (2/19/2008)
Hey! This stuff really ages. I was making beef stew tonight so this morning, after getting the other ingredients together in a pot, I pulled a bottle of 2002 Borsao and set it on the counter. As 5:00, I called my son, told him to uncork the wine, pour it into the pot, and put it in the oven. I asked him to leave a few ounces in the bottles for later. At 7:30, I uncorked the left over bottle on the counter and unceremoniously took a swig from the bottle, expecting to quench my curiosity more than my thirst. Intense and complex cherry and raspberry flavors with some pepper and spice. I poured the rest into a glass so I could write a proper note. Moderate red color but not opaque, a little like a dark ruby. Cherry on the nose. still the same palate. Tannins softened and sweet. No oak or vanilla. This is a bona fide very good to excellent wine, 88 pts without the QPR factor. I bought a case of this 4 years ago at Zachy’s on sale for $4.59 per bottle. Best bargain since the $6 Le Montrachet I got in 1978. (88 pts.)
2 Columbia Crest Grand Estate reds, one Cab and one Merlot, got lost in the cellar, opened roughly 10 yr post vintage and both were drinking way above their price range (single digits)
I don’t know how long you’ve been following wine, but $8.99 was very cheap for a '99 Bourgogne. I just checked my inventory, and '01 and '02 Barthod and Lafarge Bourgognes were going for $18-$20 on release. The $8.99 is about what Guigal Cotes du Rhone (millions of bottles produced) was selling for in the '99/'01 time frame.
2009 Cantalupo “Agamium” Colline Novaresi (nebbiolo) is still fine, with some real complexity. That went for around $13 at PJ’s here in NY and was still on the shelves 12 or 18 months ago.