TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

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Frank Murray III
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TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#1 Post by Frank Murray III » January 8th, 2019, 5:57 pm

From the south, the Aube, another producer I am exploring, and wanting to visit the next time i get to the region. They're not far from Chablis, as the Aube is very far south, well away from the traditional center of Champagne, like Reims and Epernay. They're quite close to Vouette et Sorbet, Pierre Gerbais, Marie-Courtin and Cedric Bouchard--the map below will help show the layout of their area. Farmed bio, no dosage, and sans soufre.

http://www.champagne-ruppert-leroy.com/

https://goo.gl/maps/uJ4FSyqMJT52
  • 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux - France, Champagne (1/8/2019)
    First bottle of three. Opened last night, kept closed by a bottle clip so there are plenty of bubbles here a day later. Disgorged 09/2017, zero dosage. It is also sans soufre, and farmed bio. This is good, yet it is lean. Lemon, strawberry, thyme and a streak of minerality running through the core and into the finish. This is crisper and refreshing, and is not going to be well-received by those who want a fleshier expression. There is texture present here, and it comes through but as it does, the acidity and spine bring wrap it all together.
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My best wines of 2018:
2013 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier d'Or
2015 Kutch Sonoma Coast PN
2017 Kutch Falstaff Sonoma Coast PN
2012 Marguet Père et Fils Champagne La Grande Ruelle Ambonnay
2012 Savart Expression Nature Ecueil
2010 Tercero Verbiage (Rouge) Santa Barbara County

Kindness matters.

m. ristev
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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#2 Post by m. ristev » January 8th, 2019, 6:06 pm

these wines are great, prices have remained level while v&s has been steadily increasing over the past couple years. qualitatively i find them very similar.

i wonder what their copper usage is like in the vineyard as it is not mentioned on their site. i was told a parcel of v&s was destroyed by the LCBO because the wine was found to have too high of a copper content.
mајкл

Subu Ramachandran
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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#3 Post by Subu Ramachandran » January 8th, 2019, 6:25 pm

Frank,

I love their wines. Chablis with bubbles, think they do barrel aging and don't block ML. Reminds me of Marguet in Aube.

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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#4 Post by IlkkaL » January 8th, 2019, 10:07 pm

Great note, Frank! I ordered a bottle of their Cuvée 11, 12, 13... with my gf in a restaurant while we were waiting for the rest of our party to arrive. I found it definitely interesting and well made but my gf who is generally a fan of grower stuff (especially Côte des Blancs/Montagne de Reims) did not appreciate its almost over the top "vinous" character and as we offered pours to the rest no one seemed to "understand" the wine and they all preferred to drink something more familiar to them.
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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#5 Post by ky1em!ttskus » January 8th, 2019, 10:13 pm

Check! This is a producer, or at least a wine, for me to avoid. :D

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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#6 Post by Subu Ramachandran » January 9th, 2019, 5:11 am

Wines of similar type (if you want to avoid - thank you if you do :) )

Marguet
Marie Courtin
Vouette et Sorbee
Marc Hebrart
Larmandier Bernier

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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#7 Post by IlkkaL » January 9th, 2019, 8:04 am

Subu Ramachandran wrote:
January 9th, 2019, 5:11 am
Wines of similar type (if you want to avoid - thank you if you do :) )

Marguet
Marie Courtin
Vouette et Sorbee
Marc Hebrart
Larmandier Bernier
Say what? To me Marc Hebrart makes quite conventionally styles wines that have been enjoyed by many of my friends who are not wine geeks by any means. Perhaps the Special Club offers more character but the more affordable stuff is not uncommonly vinous or even characterful for that matter. I certainly find a lot of value there and enjoy especially his Blanc de Blancs or Rosé anytime and feel like I can open them in any company confidently.

Larmandier-Bernier-s wines offer plenty of character for sure but still I think that wines like Longitude and Terre de Vertus are quite approachable and Latitude if not very interesting is extremely approachable.
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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#8 Post by Subu Ramachandran » January 9th, 2019, 8:17 am

What do you mean by character?

I love all the producers mentioned above. Most of them are in no dosage (perhaps other than Hebrart) and have ML. Some are bio and use wood.

If you think Hebrart and Larmandier-Bernier wines have character but the others on that list don't, I'm a bit [scratch.gif]

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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#9 Post by Otto Forsberg » January 9th, 2019, 8:35 am

Subu Ramachandran wrote:
January 9th, 2019, 5:11 am
Wines of similar type (if you want to avoid - thank you if you do :) )

Marguet
Marie Courtin
Vouette et Sorbee
Marc Hebrart
Larmandier Bernier
What do you mean by "similar type"? All of these are great producers, but I really don't see any common thread in their styles.

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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#10 Post by Subu Ramachandran » January 9th, 2019, 8:45 am

Otto,

Between bio, aging in wood and ML the style is similar.

For instance, Piollot doesn't do ML, the style for me comes across as very different.

Piollot is crisp, linear style. Rupper Leroy is more on the vinous side. There was a stark difference was tasting many Aube producers side by side late last year.

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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#11 Post by Otto Forsberg » January 9th, 2019, 8:59 am

Subu Ramachandran wrote:
January 9th, 2019, 8:45 am
Otto,

Between bio, aging in wood and ML the style is similar.

For instance, Piollot doesn't do ML, the style for me comes across as very different.

Piollot is crisp, linear style. Rupper Leroy is more on the vinous side. There was a stark difference was tasting many Aube producers side by side late last year.
Piollot doesn't do MLF? I remember their Pinot Blancs and Rosé going through MLF, I've no idea about the others. Some Piollots I've tasted have been quite lean and linear, but others have been quite vinous and for example the Rosé 2006 is probably to this date the most vinous Champagne I've ever tasted, coming across more as a red Burgundy with bubbles than a Champagne.

Furthermore, the differences between the producers in your list are quite stark. For example to my palate the overall style of Marguet is very vinous, brooding and weighty, whereas Marie Courting makes some of the most sleek, mineral and crisp Blancs des Noirs I know. The rest fall somewhere in-between. To me, it's more of a list of producers making very different styles of wines with similar methods than a list of producers making wines in a similar style.

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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#12 Post by IlkkaL » January 9th, 2019, 10:01 am

Subu Ramachandran wrote:
January 9th, 2019, 8:17 am
What do you mean by character?

I love all the producers mentioned above. Most of them are in no dosage (perhaps other than Hebrart) and have ML. Some are bio and use wood.

If you think Hebrart and Larmandier-Bernier wines have character but the others on that list don't, I'm a bit [scratch.gif]
I understood that you meant with your list that they are all producers whose wines Kyle should avoid if Ruppert-Leroy sounds like it's not his cup of tea. Thus I was wondering since I think that especially Marc Hebrart makes very easy-going wines for most palates and Larmandier-Bernier at least to some extent makes quite approachable wines compared to many other growers.
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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#13 Post by Nathan V. » January 9th, 2019, 12:53 pm

IlkkaL wrote:
January 9th, 2019, 8:04 am
Subu Ramachandran wrote:
January 9th, 2019, 5:11 am
Wines of similar type (if you want to avoid - thank you if you do :) )

Marguet
Marie Courtin
Vouette et Sorbee
Marc Hebrart
Larmandier Bernier
Say what? To me Marc Hebrart makes quite conventionally styles wines that have been enjoyed by many of my friends who are not wine geeks by any means. Perhaps the Special Club offers more character but the more affordable stuff is not uncommonly vinous or even characterful for that matter. I certainly find a lot of value there and enjoy especially his Blanc de Blancs or Rosé anytime and feel like I can open them in any company confidently.

Larmandier-Bernier-s wines offer plenty of character for sure but still I think that wines like Longitude and Terre de Vertus are quite approachable and Latitude if not very interesting is extremely approachable.
Yeah, Hebrart has nothing to do with those others. I found the dosage level quite evident last time I tried them. Not much there, there.
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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#14 Post by Frank Murray III » January 9th, 2019, 3:11 pm

Kyle, you are getting some good feedback here that is being kicked around by some smart palates. I would not discourage you from trying Marie-Courtin or Marguet, for example, as while they are no dosage and have some similar methodology for being made, I do think you would like these wines if you have yet to try them. In my view, when a producer nails the texture and the fruit purity, the dosage being absent doesn't matter (for me). The best Marguet wines, especially the La Grande Ruelle, is amazing as a no dose wine, and it's neither austere or any other attributes in that realm. Same with Marie-Courtin Presence. Excellent champagnes, made in wood (all of them for Marguet, not all for Marie-Courtin) and both fantastic. Be careful with broad brushes of guidance. I love Vilmart, which does have an imprint of dosage but the wines work, as well as those from Mousse, where some dosage is used.

Keep experimenting and don't cross off things from your list too quickly.
My best wines of 2018:
2013 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier d'Or
2015 Kutch Sonoma Coast PN
2017 Kutch Falstaff Sonoma Coast PN
2012 Marguet Père et Fils Champagne La Grande Ruelle Ambonnay
2012 Savart Expression Nature Ecueil
2010 Tercero Verbiage (Rouge) Santa Barbara County

Kindness matters.


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Re: TN: 2014 Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux

#16 Post by amjohnstone » January 11th, 2019, 8:06 am

Frank Murray III wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 5:57 pm
From the south, the Aube, another producer I am exploring, and wanting to visit the next time i get to the region. They're not far from Chablis, as the Aube is very far south, well away from the traditional center of Champagne, like Reims and Epernay. They're quite close to Vouette et Sorbet, Pierre Gerbais, Marie-Courtin and Cedric Bouchard--the map below will help show the layout of their area. Farmed bio, no dosage, and sans soufre.

http://www.champagne-ruppert-leroy.com/

https://goo.gl/maps/uJ4FSyqMJT52
Thanks for including the link to the map. As I get more serious about Champagne, I find myself spending a lot of time pouring over maps, trying to understand better where the grapes are grown. I've known that Vouette et Sorbet and Marie-Courtin nearly were neighbors, but I didn't realize Ruppert-Leroy wasn't that far away.
Andrew Johnstone

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