TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

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Robert.A.Jr.
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TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#1 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » January 6th, 2019, 1:26 pm

Given what has transpired to some of my personal favorite wines that have turned unicorn on me, I’m a bit reluctant to post a note on this wine, but ultimately wine is about sharing. Plouzeau’s Franc De Pied is my favorite Loire Cab Franc next to Rougeard. And since Rougeard is now off my allocation list, I guess it makes this wine my favorite. I’m also quite partial to Franc de Pied wines.

A bit about the wine: Reputedly one of the oldest Cab Franc vineyards in Loire, with vines dating back more than 200 years. It’s a tiny little plot enclosed by walls, only 0.4 ha. Small production, about 1000 cases. This is original root-stalk. It is not grafted.

I have found the 2015 Chinon vintage reasonably ripe and approachable, compared to the more classic 2014, but still quite balanced. This Chinon is the most structured and tannic 2015 that I have had, suggesting ten years before I crack another and easily going 25+. Such a myth that Franc de Pieds cannot age. The nose is still a bit primary, muted, but after several hours open has a gorgeous, smokey perfume with cigar leaf, brambly dark fruits and other dry earth elements. The palate is insanely deep, layered, but not heavy, with a broad range of dark fruits, wild red fruits, earth, tar and tobacco, buttressed by firm, chewy, chalky but sweet tannins. Incredible finish, great texture and depth. Best Plouzeau FDP since 2010. And for the more timid of Chinon fans (Blanquito?), no green notes. While I like the herbaceous quality of Loire Cab Franc, I also really dig these riper vintages that create such world class wine. Now bear in mind, “ripe” in Chinon is not the pejorative that it is too me in, say, Bordeaux!

(95 pts.)
Last edited by Robert.A.Jr. on January 6th, 2019, 1:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#2 Post by Brian G r a f s t r o m » January 6th, 2019, 1:33 pm

I've never tried this bottling, but did recently add one bottle each of the '12 and '13 to the collection. Any advice on those?
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#3 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » January 6th, 2019, 1:38 pm

Enjoy.

2012 is a more fruit forward vintage, 2013 is a lower-quality, lean vintage. I like them both, but not at the level of 2010 and 2015. I love how Plouzeau handles the vagaries of Chinon weather. He turns out quality stuff in all years; I buy them in every year.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#4 Post by Dan Sch » January 6th, 2019, 2:46 pm

Cool note and good to hear other people like his stuff! I have really enjoyed all of his Chinons but haven't tried this vintage of the FDP as of yet.
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#5 Post by Scott Tallman » January 6th, 2019, 2:49 pm

Need to track this down as I’ve never tried it. Also love FdPs and have really enjoyed the few Plouzeaus I’ve tried. Drink a few bottles of their rosè every summer.
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#6 Post by Brian G r a f s t r o m » January 6th, 2019, 3:28 pm

Do you feel decanting helps these wines? Or, at such a young age, does that tend to make them clam up?
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#7 Post by Mike Grammer » January 7th, 2019, 12:55 pm

Love reading notes on (to me) unknown treasures like this. Thanks Robert, so much

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#8 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » January 7th, 2019, 1:39 pm

My pleasure, sir.

Now let me give you a tip of equal value if you like QORs:

2015 M. Plouzeau Chateau de la Bonneliere Chinon Les Cornuelles, Chinon

Fantastic, and only $20. And this baby will age; in fact, actually needs some time.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#9 Post by Cris Whetstone » January 7th, 2019, 6:11 pm

Robert.A.Jr. wrote:
January 7th, 2019, 1:39 pm
My pleasure, sir.

Now let me give you a tip of equal value if you like QORs:

2015 M. Plouzeau Chateau de la Bonneliere Chinon Les Cornuelles, Chinon

Fantastic, and only $20. And this baby will age; in fact, actually needs some time.
Freaking stop, man. I'm already buying too much lower end Loire CFranc.

neener
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#10 Post by Brian G r a f s t r o m » January 7th, 2019, 9:02 pm

this inspired me to pop my '13 tonight. First impressions: would be downright excellent if it didn't smell and taste like new French oak. Will see if more air does something about that. Really unfortunate, as the underlying wine strikes me as compelling.
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#11 Post by alan weinberg » January 8th, 2019, 6:10 am

0.4 ha and 1000 cases? That’s several fold more than one would expect from an acre.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#12 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » January 8th, 2019, 6:15 am

alan weinberg wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 6:10 am
0.4 ha and 1000 cases? That’s several fold more than one would expect from an acre.
Oops. 1000 bottles.

Just doubled-checked the tech sheet.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#13 Post by Jay Miller » January 8th, 2019, 6:26 am

So you're one of the reasons this wine suddenly became unavailable [soap.gif]

I bought '06 and '07 (after Gilman's review) and then my supply dried up. I should monitor for it more closely but maybe it's best if I don't. I'm already embarrassed enough on the Inventory Reduction thread.
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#14 Post by Nathan V. » January 8th, 2019, 8:02 am

Robert.A.Jr. wrote:
January 6th, 2019, 1:26 pm
Given what has transpired to some of my personal favorite wines that have turned unicorn on me, I’m a bit reluctant to post a note on this wine, but ultimately wine is about sharing. Plouzeau’s Franc De Pied is my favorite Loire Cab Franc next to Rougeard. And since Rougeard is now off my allocation list, I guess it makes this wine my favorite. I’m also quite partial to Franc de Pied wines.

A bit about the wine: Reputedly one of the oldest Cab Franc vineyards in Loire, with vines dating back more than 200 years. It’s a tiny little plot enclosed by walls, only 0.4 ha. Small production, about 1000 cases. This is original root-stalk. It is not grafted.

I have found the 2015 Chinon vintage reasonably ripe and approachable, compared to the more classic 2014, but still quite balanced. This Chinon is the most structured and tannic 2015 that I have had, suggesting ten years before I crack another and easily going 25+. Such a myth that Franc de Pieds cannot age. The nose is still a bit primary, muted, but after several hours open has a gorgeous, smokey perfume with cigar leaf, brambly dark fruits and other dry earth elements. The palate is insanely deep, layered, but not heavy, with a broad range of dark fruits, wild red fruits, earth, tar and tobacco, buttressed by firm, chewy, chalky but sweet tannins. Incredible finish, great texture and depth. Best Plouzeau FDP since 2010. And for the more timid of Chinon fans (Blanquito?), no green notes. While I like the herbaceous quality of Loire Cab Franc, I also really dig these riper vintages that create such world class wine. Now bear in mind, “ripe” in Chinon is not the pejorative that it is too me in, say, Bordeaux!

(95 pts.)
It's good, but is it actually better than Croix Boissée, Clos Guillot or even Grézeaux (or Alliet Noiré or VV, Rafault Picasses)? That's quite the statement. I won't argue with your preferences, because they're yours, I'm just surprised. I'm not really sure how much better Rougeard is than Croix Boissée is anymore anyway.

Is it in the Chinon AOC? I thought it was outside.
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#15 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » January 8th, 2019, 8:10 am

It’s just outside the Chinon AOC.

Preferences are what they are, but damn do I buy a ton of Baudry as well. Definitely much better than Ailliet, And way better than Raffault in the early to mid period. What I cannot say, is whether these wines will be as good as vintage Raffault from years like 1990, 1989 and 1977. I just have not had that comparative. My educated guess is that these wines, especially this 2015, will be better. Obviously that is speculation.

I doubled down on the 2015 Baudry Guillot and Croix Boissee after trying the Guillot. It’s excellent. The $20 Plouzeau that I reference above, is every bit as good.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#16 Post by Nathan V. » January 8th, 2019, 8:37 am

Robert.A.Jr. wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 8:10 am
It’s just outside the Chinon AOC.

Preferences are what they are, but damn do I buy a ton of Baudry as well. Definitely much better than Ailliet, And way better than Raffault in the early to mid period. What I cannot say, is whether these wines will be as good as vintage Raffault from years like 1990, 1989 and 1977. I just have not had that comparative. My educated guess is that these wines, especially this 2015, will be better. Obviously that is speculation.

I doubled down on the 2015 Baudry Guillot and Croix Boissee after trying the Guillot. It’s excellent. The $20 Plouzeau that I reference above, is every bit as good.
That's all fair enough. I seem to like Alliet more than other folks and haven't liked the Plouzeau Chinon as much as you seem to (or Pallus). What do you think of Coulaine (Bonnaventure) wines? I used to really like them, but they can be difficult to come by in the states.

Go back and buy more 2014s if it's convenient, might be a better vintage. BTW, 2016s are great and will be scarce. That being said, I probably have more Loire Cab Franc than makes sense for our consumption habits.
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#17 Post by Julian Marshall » January 8th, 2019, 8:46 am

Great stuff, Robert - yet another wine I've never heard of which I will now have to shell out for! Oh well. Does sound excellent...

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#18 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » January 8th, 2019, 8:50 am

Nathan, you and I are on the same page re: vintages. And quantity/consumption. About 1/3 of my cellar is Loire Cab Franc, but then again, I also drink them regularly. I went deep in 2014, including multiple cases of the Baudry base cuvees for daily drinking. Such a classic vintage. Having heard that 2015 was "ripe," I did not do full cases on the big cuvees that I liked, but then after trying some, went back for more. I said to someone jokingly last week, can Chinon ever be too ripe? Of course yes, but more often than not, a ripe vintage just means purer, bigger fruit (less pyrazine notes), not necessarily the resulting alcohol level issues that we see in ripe vintage Bordeaux, Southern Rhone, etc. Beaujolais is similar to me, while I went deeper in 2014, I bought some delicious 2015s.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#19 Post by Nathan V. » January 8th, 2019, 10:13 am

Robert.A.Jr. wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 8:50 am
Nathan, you and I are on the same page re: vintages. And quantity/consumption. About 1/3 of my cellar is Loire Cab Franc, but then again, I also drink them regularly. I went deep in 2014, including multiple cases of the Baudry base cuvees for daily drinking. Such a classic vintage. Having heard that 2015 was "ripe," I did not do full cases on the big cuvees that I liked, but then after trying some, went back for more. I said to someone jokingly last week, can Chinon ever be too ripe? Of course yes, but more often than not, a ripe vintage just means purer, bigger fruit (less pyrazine notes), not necessarily the resulting alcohol level issues that we see in ripe vintage Bordeaux, Southern Rhone, etc. Beaujolais is similar to me, while I went deeper in 2014, I bought some delicious 2015s.
I think another thing to keep in mind with the newer riper vintages is that the vignerons (and Matthieu in particular) are much better at tannin management and the viticulture is better than it was for the 2005s, so I expect more supple wines rather than the bruisers that 2005 produced. 2014 is actually quite ripe, historically, for Chinon but the young wines hit a real sweet spot for me. I didn't buy enough Clos Guillot, probably. The best vintage to date for that wine.
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#20 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » January 8th, 2019, 10:16 am

Nathan do you know whether The FDP sees new oak and if so in what percentage? Brian's note surprises me.

Here is my note on the 2013:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=126198&p=1974624&hi ... u#p1974624

Checked CT, and did not see any other notes regarding oak. I'm generally quite new oak averse, and have never thought Plouzeau was overboard on oak. Funny how we can all see things so incredibly differently.

The Plouzeau website and tech sheet on this wine do not comment about oak.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#21 Post by m. ristev » January 8th, 2019, 10:20 am

so which one of you got the case of 2011 collier charpentrie for $28 per from the collectible fine wines xmas sale [cheers.gif]
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#22 Post by Jonathan Loesberg » January 8th, 2019, 10:51 am

I only discovered this wine in the 11 vintage. I've been buying it ever since. I haven't tasted the 15. Though none of these wines won't go for some time, I've been drinking too many of the 11s and 12s, and they both have never failed to give pleasure.

I don't know how to answer Nathan's question about whether they are better than various of the Baudry cuvees. When wines are at a certain level, I stop comparing them qualitatively. It's like asking if Mozart isn't really better than Brahms. But maybe he means that the Plouzeau isn't at that level, and then, I guess, we just disagree.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#23 Post by Todd F r e n c h » January 8th, 2019, 10:58 am

After Falltacular sometime, I'll be able to try this wine and write a crappy tasting note, so Alfert stops nagging me
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#24 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » January 8th, 2019, 12:09 pm

Todd F r e n c h wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 10:58 am
After Falltacular sometime, I'll be able to try this wine and write a crappy tasting note, so Alfert stops nagging me
Lol, like a note from you would cause a run on the market! ;)

And this stuff is way too nuanced for Fu.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#25 Post by Brian G r a f s t r o m » January 8th, 2019, 12:31 pm

Robert.A.Jr. wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 10:16 am
Nathan do you know whether The FDP sees new oak and if so in what percentage? Brian's note surprises me.

Here is my note on the 2013:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=126198&p=1974624&hi ... u#p1974624

Checked CT, and did not see any other notes regarding oak. I'm generally quite new oak averse, and have never thought Plouzeau was overboard on oak. Funny how we can all see things so incredibly differently.

The Plouzeau website and tech sheet on this wine do not comment about oak.
I'm very curious about this. I saved half the bottle for tonight and/or tmrw. to see if extended air helps it. I rated the '13 to 83 points last night, which is pretty damning from me. Without the (apparent) oak issues, I'd see it in the low 90s.
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#26 Post by Todd F r e n c h » January 8th, 2019, 12:53 pm

Robert.A.Jr. wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 12:09 pm
Todd F r e n c h wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 10:58 am
After Falltacular sometime, I'll be able to try this wine and write a crappy tasting note, so Alfert stops nagging me
Lol, like a note from you would cause a run on the market! ;)

And this stuff is way too nuanced for Fu.
I think you misspelled 'cheap'
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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#27 Post by Robert.A.Jr. » January 8th, 2019, 12:55 pm

Todd F r e n c h wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 12:53 pm
Robert.A.Jr. wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 12:09 pm
Todd F r e n c h wrote:
January 8th, 2019, 10:58 am
After Falltacular sometime, I'll be able to try this wine and write a crappy tasting note, so Alfert stops nagging me
Lol, like a note from you would cause a run on the market! ;)

And this stuff is way too nuanced for Fu.
I think you misspelled 'cheap'
He said that a few years ago when I recommended Gonon. And look at grasshopper now. #soproud.

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Re: TN: 2015 M Plouzeau Clos de Maulevrier Touraine 'Ante Phylloxera' Franc de Pied

#29 Post by Todd F r e n c h » March 1st, 2019, 5:18 pm

Counselor...my note on the 2011 Plouzeau has been posted...
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