TNs -- NYE 2018 Wines

Berserkers,

Happy New Year to one and all and a prosperous 2019 to come. Up here in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, board members Mike Grammer, our friends John and Lynne and yours truly attended our friend Gunnar’s annual New Year’s Eve party that was laden with food and drink galore. This year saw the addition of a special selection of wines brought to the party by the man, the legend and the myth that is Mike Grammer whose reputation as a wine expert preceded him.

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE 2015 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LES LEVRONS – Fresh green apple flavor mixes with phenolic bitterness and slight leesy brioche and sulfuric gunpowder flavors. Very young, this is going to develop into something special. I think Mike should have held on to this instead of opening it tonight.

BOTT GEYL 2012 SCHOENBOURG GRAND CRU RIESLING – Lemon-lime flavor, slightly leesy brioche flavor like the De Montille above, slightly maderized. This has lost some of its crystalline characteristics when I first tried it years ago and and developed a richness in its place. I personally prefer the younger crystalline version.

QUIVET 2015 NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON – Huge oaky and smoky aromas and flavors of sweet tannins and baked berry fruit. Huge, young, sweet and top notch quality. You either like big Cali Cab or you don’t. I like and this wine reminded me exactly why.

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2012 BARBARESCO – This rather aptly and straight to the point named cooperative producer’s wine is far more preferable to those who prefer lighter wines. Light bodied, redolent of sour cherry fruit with light smoky tannins and spice to accent. Really enjoyable wine.

Our grand feast consisted of vegetable samosas, a Greek Feta cheese twister, an eye of round beef roast, homemade gravadlax, Chinese duck pancakes with hoisin, vegetable lasagna, a cheese selection and a fruit salad:







Once the new year itself was rung in and Auld Lang Syne was sung, it was on to the sweet table and some sweet wines (these had actually been opened earlier in the evening):

NALEWKA BABUNI DESSERT PEACH WINE – Nalewka is a specialty Polish macerated fruit wine that apparently is drunk by the Polish the way the Portuguese drink Port. Imagine a Ruby Port made with peaches macerated in fortified wine instead of Port grapes and this is what you’d end up with. These were recommended to me a while ago but they are impossible to find in Canada. The LCBO only carries the cherry flavor and I was surprised to see our host with this bottle. It apparently did come into the LCBO and I completely missed it. I was worried that this would be a mess but it was actually completely viable. Smooth peach aromas and flavors with a touch of caramel toffee from oxidation. Sweet but not cloying. Could use a touch more acidity, though. I enjoyed this and would be interested in trying more.

OCALA BLUEBERRY WINE – Spritzy body, blueberry fruit and caramel toffee flavor as well from oxidation. Low ABV of just 9.5% proves to be its undoing, however, as it doesn’t have the structure and body that the Nalewka above has to support the sweetness. Would’ve been much better if it was fortified.

DOMAINE HUET 2009 CLOS DE BOURG MOELLEUX 2009 PREMIERE TRIE VOUVRAY – A generous contribution from John and Lynne, this was stunningly beautiful. Nose bursts of fresh lemon, fresh peach and apricot fruit flavors, lightly sweet, a touch of phenolic bitterness and finally the Riesling-like level of acidity I’ve always been told Chenin Blanc has but have never experienced myself – until now. Stunningly great. Everyone loved this.

CORNERSTONE 2016 ESTATE PEACH – In contrast to the Nalewka, this was quite zippy with a light body, bright acidity, sweet peach flavors and a slight touch of phenolic bitterness. Respectable but more of a refreshing wine. In comparison, the Nalewka had more depth.

MONIACK MEAD HONEY WINE – Is it wrong to complain about a wine for being exactly what it states to be on the label? This full bodied wine smells of buckwheat honey and tastes like buckwheat honey and the only difference between it and actual honey on the palate is the viscosity level. I’ve had local mead from Rosewood Winery that is far more complex than this. Again, though, this is exactly what it says it is.

CHATEAU SUDUIRAUT 1989 SAUTERNES – I gave a less than stellar review of this wine when Mike first acquired it and I feared this would be just as disappointing now as then. I was wrong. This was worse. Heavy on the caramel flavor, a little bit of dried pineapple and mango, but no complexity or life to it at all. This was handily and shockingly beaten by –

CHATEAU LAMOTHE GUIGNARD 2003 SAUTERNES – This lower-tiered Sauternes was heavily maderized and dark in color, much more so than the Suduiraut, and had me far more worried. Ironically, it was far better. Though heavy on sweetness and caramel, there was much more dried pineapple and mango flavor to be had here.

DE BORTOLI 2007 NOBLE ONE – No joke, this bottle was opened and left unrefrigerated in our host’s wine cellar for a year. We tackled it on a lark and I took a hit for the team and tried it… and it was perfectly fine if you can forgive the completely oxidized brown color. Even more ironically, it had far more pineapple fruit flavor and botrytis tingle than the two Sauternes above to go along with some burnt sugar caramel flavors. This wine is indestructible! Once people saw that I did not spit it out, make a face or die from drinking it, the crowd happily tackled this wine and it was gone.

A great thanks to our hosts Gunnar and his wife Maaja for their hospitality. It was a great way to end 2018 and start 2019.

Looks like this made for a pleasant evening! It’s good to know the Produtorri is coming along. By chance did you look at the cork on the Suduiraut? It may indicate if the wine was reconditioned at the winery. Suduiraut has a bad track record on this and have been known to occasionally late release these.

These are sure to have been a late-release batch, Paul. I had brought this on the heels of a recently-opened one on the strength of the recommendation of our good friend Heather, who has one of the best palates I know. She had kept my original-opened bottle through 4 days and had reported excellent results. I gave it the same treatment and I must definitely concur with Tran that it proved again to be quite underwhelming. I don’t think I was as put off by it as he was, but compared to e.g. a 2001 Coutet I just opened today for sharing out with friends tonight, it is a no-contest win for the Coutet.

Let me get on with telling what really happened – with correct spelling of wines and names

It is always a privilege to go to my very close friends’ Gunnar and Maaja, for their epic New Year’s Eve party. So many great conversations. Was glad to bring some worthy bottles. I also filched the 03 Lamothe Guignard from Gunnar’s cellar, knowing it would be with his blessing

2015 Maison de Montille Puligny Les Levrons

Really wanted to open this, since it’s a 15 white and it’s from a plot I’ve never heard of, apparently just under Perrieres. This was subjected to the Methode Grammeroise—full day’s Audouzing the day before, then 2 hours’ decant before being served (Tran wouldn’t have known those details, we didn’t get the chance to speak of it). On the night, it showed the openness of the 15s that I’ve seen and, better for me, left absolutely no doubt of its origins. Super-racy, mineral and touch of salt and lean lemon and apple peel, this isn’t Meursault and it isn’t Chassagne–it’s Puligny. For USD$75, in today’s world? Yes, I’ll get a couple bottles more. Surprisingly, the next day, it had coiled even tighter.

2012 Bott Geyl Schoenenbourg Ries

Although this had some elements of Alsace with a certain level of underpinned yellow fruit and a touch of musk on nose and mouth, there was something off here. Heather and I figured it out the next day when I served the leftovers—reduction. I don’t think I’ve ever encountered that in an Alsatian before and it left an offputting funky note to this. Usually a great producer, the other 2 bottles I’ve had of this have been open and generous.

2015 Quivet Beckstoffer Las Piedras Cab

Near the upper-end of Mike’s offerings from Quivet. Very cherries jubilee nose with plenty of plum and a mite of torrefaction. No small retiring wine dans la bouche, takes over your mouth with a fairly sweet, full red fruit expression. A little mocha if you dig for it, this has intensity and does stop just short of oversweetness, but won’t be in everyone’s wheelhouse. Enjoyed it for what it is.

2012 Produttori di Barbaresco Barbaresco

I left this in a decanter for about 4 hours before bringing it. It is still in toddler stage, but had a terroir-evocative roses and strawberry lilt to the aromatics. Really spoke to me. To taste, plenty of structure and good tart red fruit base, but it does definitely need more time, 4 years at least. That was proven out when it remained spring-tight the next day.

2009 Huet Clos du Bourg 1er Trie Moelleux

My very close friends, Lynn and Jon, brought this as their contribution. No prior ox-ing or decanting. Wow, does that ever stop you in your tracks. Fabulous expression of florals, perfume and sweet-lime-edged yellow pear and star fruit. On the tongue, it caresses beautifully as it slides through your mouth. Decades to go, surely, but still so marvelously expressive now. Didn’t lose a jot of energy the next day, either, although Heather picked up a trace of VA. I’m not as sure about that.


Lallier Grand Cru Brut Rose

Tran left off the sparkler choices that were available. Pleasant and pretty describes the bouquet and palate here, with tinges of raspberry and unripe watermelon, but nothing to make it really stand out and the finish is a little short. Have to confess that a local sparkling, had the same New Year’s Eve, lapped it by a considerable margin. Still, a nice Rose

2013 Westcott Estates Brilliant

Lynn and Jon brought this as well. No more left at the winery, this was truly singing with so much energy, verve and class for a sparkling. Pretty much outdoes anything else here in Ontario in my experience, and, off a taste of the new release, that batch is as good or better.

2003 Chateau Lamothe Guignard Sauternes

I do believe this is the first time I’ve had anything from this house. Saw this in Gunnar’s cellar and thought it was probably time to get it opened. It’s a pretty and slightly restrained 03, with even-tempered apricot and pineapple fruit showing with a tinge of vanilla bean. Nice without being extra-special, but a rather pretty Sauternes.

I’ll add a couple of wines drunk yesterday and one opened today that I will report fully on when tasted more extensively tonight.

2014 Sojourn Reuling Pinot Noir

Pop and Pour. The nose is redolent with blue fruit and strawberries—it’s kickin’. Palate is very, very fine—a great marriage between the slightly wild and very intense nature of the fruit from here with Erich Bradley’s velvet touch, this wine is kinetic and silky all at the same time. The result is a wine that holds interest right through the entire mouth. Excellent and I hope I have at least one more bottle–would like to leave a last one another year or two for possible further development.

2015 Moon Curser Syrah

Had some fun with this with Tran and a couple of our gaming friends. This is a B.C. winery that I was very impressed with when I visited there and have kept my eye on grabbing a bottle here or there. This shows quite strongly, with raspberry pie mixed in with some dark chocolate and unripe plum. For all that it has some heft, it also presents a slightly cool factor too. Very nice balance and conversation on the palate here. Regrets that I didn’t buy more (sold out now).

2001 Chateau Coutet Barsac

I’m leaving this to Audouze for the day, but my first taste is swoonful. Pure dynamite, a brilliant mix of gingered maple sugar and lime. Fresh as a daisy yet has the power to linger for 10 minutes later, when that key lime pie is still on my lips and on my tongue. I do like the house style here, but in 2001 they were superstars and this is such a huge overachiever for its price point. I really have to source more. Shudderlicious.

Happy New Year to all,

Mike

Hold up Tran…Im pretty sure youve had Huet at my house more than once.
That beef looked a little past well done

Not the 09. But yes, otherwise. Actually, this was a super-fun exercise to do. I hadn’t realized how generous with these you have been, Berto:

From Weekend at Berto’s, November 2015:

"1996 Huet Clos de Bourg Moelleux

Surprisingly shy—it takes some swirling to get at the honey, lanolin, pear and melon notes in the bouquet. Tran finds some petrol and gunpowder scents too. That’s quite good in the mouth—wildflower honey, a good dollop of pear and…kiwi. The aromatics do blossom with florals added and keep you interested for the whole night. Very nice wine."


Tran’s note:

1996 Huet Clos de Bourg Moelleux – Wow. I cannot believe this wine is from the 90’s. It tastes so fresh it was like it was bottled yesterday. Interestingly, I noted that it has characteristics of petrol and gunpowder typical of German Riesling and French Chardonnay. This cannot be a coincidence. Nice crystalline honey and tropical fruit flavors. I actually finished the remainder of this beauty. I’ve got two 2010 bottles I’m holding onto like liquid gold. I understand it’s not the same winemaker and can only pray they are as good.


From weekend at Berto’s/Dortafest II, October 2016

“1993 Domaine Huet Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Premiere Trie – only got a first initial taste of this (while I entertained the masses at Berto’s keyboard, the rest of the who-haaas drank all this), as we all agreed it needed to lose a touch of reductiveness, but it tasted like it was in a right place and had good length to go with the sweet honeyed fruit.”


Tran’s note:

Domaine Huet 1993 Le Haut Lieu Premiere Trie Moelleux Vouvray – This was brought out solely to spite my Trimbach and ice wine loving self and to show me what a good complex sweet wine is like. This is, of course, a superior wine but you really had to expect that. Lightly sweet and refreshing lemon drop flavours in a creamy body with some sour lemon acidity that lifts it on the finish. Quite complex.


From Weekend at Berto’s, April 2017

“1996 Huet Clos de Bourg Moelleux This one was well-named, yellow and maybe some green fruit–kiwi?–in there for the nose, it was soft and sweet but also rather quietly insistent. A nice drink.”


Tran’s note:

DOMAINE HUET 1996 CLOS DU BOURG 1ERE TRIE VOUVRAY MOELLEUX – I love the old school label on this bottle. Beautiful rich golden color, like translucent egg yolks if that makes sense. Burnt sugar and fresh cut kumquat aromas on the nose. Light bodied in the mouth with crisp flavors of kumquat and lemon drop. High acidity as I expect with Chenin Blanc. Sweet but refreshingly so. The burnt sugar hits on the finish and lingers which either adds complexity or distracts depending on how much you enjoy it. Nice. The great thing about every Huet Vouvray Moelleux we’ve had together is that it is truly the only sweet wine that acts like an actual table wine in terms of body, texture, aromas and ABV but tastes like a dessert wine. This is perfect for anyone who doesn’t like the cloying thick texture of a sweet wine and/or the high acidity needed to compensate for that. Great wine.


From Weekend at Berto’s, April 2018

"1996 Huet Clos de Bourg Moelleux 1er Trie

An aromatic and taste-filled dream of lemon meringue pie. As it stays in your mouth, some ginger, dates and even coriander make themselves known. Finish lasts a very, very long time. Marvelicious."


Tran’s note:

DOMAINE HUET 1996 CLOS DU BOURG MOELLEUX 1ERE TRIE – A bit of a corky nose that mostly blew off by the secdon day covered up some sweet buckwheat honey aromas. Quince and buckwheat honey flavors with a touch of phenolic bitterness on the finish I find in Chenin Blanc. Really great aperitif to start

Clearly the alcohol is killing off some of my long-term memory brain cells. Ah well, they served me well while they existed. at least you see a strong and consistent quality to Huet even with long aging.

The 01 Coutet, if anything, was even more sleek and streamlined last night. What a triumph.

Lol apparently I like that 96

I’ve been underwhelmed by that 89 suduiraut lately too.