Some brief notes on our wines from Christmas Eve:
2017 Il Monticello Vermentino Colli di Luni Groppolo - Italy, Tuscany / Liguria, Colli di Luni
Lovely, lovely wine. There is so much generic Vermentino that I’d forgotten how aromatic a wine it could be. Light on its feet like a dancer not showing the strength you know is being used. A good match with itself but would go well with many foods.
1996 Château Soucherie Coteaux du Layon Chaume- France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon Chaume
Interestingly this was at least as sweet as my notes from bottles 11 and 12 years ago suggest, now into dessert sweetness. Lots of acidity, full of minerals, white peach and some melon.
Worked well with full-flavored cheeses.
2008 Albert Boxler Pinot Gris Sommerberg Sélection de Grains Nobles - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Absolutely delicious. Almost like an Eiswein. Very sweet but balanced by excellent acidity. Much more acidity than I’d expect from Pinot Gris. Apricot predominant over peach. I don’t taste honey, and certainly no bitterness even at the end, suggesting great ripeness without botrytis. Terrific wine. I’m sure it could evolve over many years but so scrumptious now that I won’t postpone gratification.
2008 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis 1er Cru La Forest - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Nice and clean. A good but not excellent vintage as far as cut and salinity and I thought it would have enough roundness/richness to pair with sea scallops pan-seared in butter and champagne vinegar and shallots. Not quite an ideal match, but the wine was good enough. All agreed though that a much more “modest” 2009 Clos de Briords Clisson the previous night was more of a standout.
(Previous night) 2009 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
I know it’s a cliche but this was great with oysters, Wellfleet and 2 types of Pacific oysters. Dry, tremendous minerality, great depth. Lip-smackingly good. Even better than a few years ago.
(previous night) 2010 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
A very nice fruit-forward Chianti, just beginning to show leathery notes at the end. Especially from ripe years I find Volpaia to be very approachable and easy for all to like but still high in quality.
2006 Barnett Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Rattlesnake Hill- USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
Big Cali Cabs are not my usual style, but I thought the friends we were visiting would like this with their Osso Buco, and they did. Dark and full-flavored but tamed by the dozen years of age. Pretty cassis nose with only a dollop of oak. Structure enough, but easy to drink. So we did! The only bottle I’ve had, so I’m guessing this is a good time to drink. Might have been more exuberantly fruity in the past, and might develop more nuance with time, but I’ll never know
1986 Dow Porto Tawny Reserve
- Portugal, Douro, Porto
I think this was bottled at about 15 years old, so only moderately tawny. Quite nice, warm in the mouth without alcohol protruding, moderately rich, moderately deep, and all too easy to drink.