One Too Many Burgs

Had an extremely long lunch yesterday with some great mates. Burgundy was the order of the day.

2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnières: There’s a whiff of spearmint to the aroma along with some smoke and ripe orchard fruits. It is elegant but there is generosity of fruit. The finish is precise and minerally.

2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots: Expressive nose of white peach, spice and almond butter. It is full and textured in the mouth, with powerful orchard fruits and plenty of spice. There some flint to the long, sappy finish.

2015 Benoit Ente Puligny-Montrachet: I suspect this was picked relatively early. There is a sun-kissed quality to the wine from the vintage but it has a coolness and possesses breezy acidity. There are pure white peach aromas and flavours and plenty of mineral.

2013 Arnaud Ente Meursault: Extremely youthful and very stony. The palate is carved from river rock and there’s the barest whisper of lemon fruit. It is precise and has intensity beyond its level. It possesses great detail and cut and the fine finish goes on and on.

2012 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité: This was super tight and super good. It had almost Chevalier-like shape and intensity. White peach and lemon fruit aromas and flavours were on show with the greatest of clarity. It has great posture thanks to its minerally bones and builds through the palate, finishing with outstanding precision. Grand Cru quality for mine.

2010 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre: It is ripe, with sappy orchard fruits and a suggestion of lavender and honeysuckle. The palate is layered and intense, bursting with preserved citrus flavours. It has Grand Cru weight and complexity and finishes with saline tang.

2011 Bernard Boisson-Vadot Meursault Les Grands Charrons: In a lovely place. There’s plenty of smoky mineral reduction to the nose. White peach fruit is sappy and intense. There’s plenty of spice and a dollop of almond butter. It is rich but remains light on its feet, finishing with good energy.

2011 Domaine Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères: Supremely elegant and beautifully balanced. There’s a sprig of mint to the aroma along with pure white peach. It is fine in the mouth with good volume and a flinty finish that shows excellent persistence.

1989 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques: A beautiful bottle of wine drinking at its peak. Complex aromatics of musk, smoked meats. Forest floor and freshly tilled black earth. It full in the mouth, with lovely interplay between sweet and savoury elements. The finish is expansive and long.

2000 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes: Engaging nose of rose petals, moss, cherry fruit and earth. It is rich, with bold flavours underpinned by Musigny’s stoniness. It builds through the palate and really fans out. Lovely stuff.

2005 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Renardes, Grand Cru: Dense blood plum and black cherry fruit overlay a base of iron. It is rich and powerful, a wine of muscle but elements of perfumed beauty. Delicious now but a couple of decades away from its apogee.

Where does the ‘too many’ come in?

I was a tad shabby this morning John, so we must have had just one too many. Might have been the magnums of '12 Clos St.Hune and '09 Allemand Cornas Chaillot that we wedged in though?

a great set of wines. Thanks. How was that CSH?

CSH was really good Alan. Some tropical fruit to begin but tightened right up in the glass. Good structure and very classy.

Thanks for the notes

Nice to see that you liked the Prince Florent; had the 1999 Clos du Roi a few months back and liked it. Decent QPR for burgundy I feel

Sounds like the perfect number of wines for 3 people mate!

Or maybe it was just too many of the cleansing ales afterward!

Those 10 raveneau. Beautiful

You knew you’d get my attention with a thread title like that, Jeremy

Happy to see your note on the Ancegnieres, which I will (miraculously) be able to get a little bit of. My last Prince Florent was the 05 Bressandes at a Corton dinner in Atlanta in 2015. It performed very well in some elite company.

"2005 Prince Florent de Merode Corton Bressandes

Their holdings have been folded into DRC’s Bressandes now. I’m happy with this—fresh red fruit with sweet rhubarb and earth and light cocoa also having a say. I do agree with Gary Margol that I don’t think the 13% listed is representative, but I don’t agree with him that it’s 14% or more—maybe 13.6% or so. Anyway, this is quite rounded and lively with a plethora of red fruit flavours and dust and spices mixed in. And it grows on me, quickly, over the night. For a 2005 that I was far from sure would be accessible, no problems here."

All the best for the holidays and 2019

Mike

Great notes as usual Jeremy. I am trying to follow the wines of Bernard Boisson. Dejan kindly brought the 89 Rousseau CSJ and I completely agree with your assessment. Merry Christmas!

Great work Jeremy. Glad to see y’all applying Burgs liberally to keep the heat at bay! Merry Christmas.

Funnily enough in the tasting group I’m a member of probably 30% of our attendees on average have a cleansing ale before we start tasting.

I suppose you mean Enseignères for PYCM (Enceignères exists too).

Recently I had a really great Raveneau Chablis Butteaux 2010 and a very good Boisson-Vadot Grands Charrons 2008 (not ready to drink).

Colin-Morey spells it Ancegnières.

Thank you for this precision, Alan …

Yes, I wondered about that too, but/and had assumed it was a sort of proprietary name choice that Pierre-Yves was using vs. the plot/lieu-dit.

I had a tremendous CSH verticale at the domaine in june 2018.
Riesling Clos Ste-Hune 2012 : 18/20
Complet, minéral, épicé, fruité, menthé. Un vin qui se livre sans trop de retenue, mais sachant rester strict. Sage, parfaitement calibré, se finissant sur de nobles saveurs amères.