TN: Eric's visit to DC - Champagne, White Burgundy, Rhone, Piedmont and etc.

ERIC’S VISIT TO DC - CHAMPAGNE, WHITE BURGUNDY, RHONE, PIEDMONT AND ETC. - Officina - Washington D.C. (12/12/2018)

Eric was in town and DCWINOs organized a wine dinner in his honor. Nine of us got together at Officina’s private room. The chef prepared an excellent tasting menu of mostly traditional dishes. The wine service by John, the beverage director, was spot on.

All of us are big fans of CellarTracker so we expressed our gratitude to Eric for developing and improving CellarTracker over the years. Reginald also asked about the White house wine list incident.

Champagne

  • NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Rosé - France, Champagne
    Beautiful perfectly mature sweet nose displaying white peach, apricot, a hint of raspberry soda, strawberry candy, slightly oxidized apple, a hint of sherry, almond cookie, white chocolate, sweet spices and mineral. Very good concentration, subtle sweet yellow fruit with a hint of red, fine mousse, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long sweet yellow and red fruit driven finish with a hint of sherry at the end. This bottle shows a bit more sherry than the last bottle. IMO, Selosse Rose is fully ready when released and there is no significant benefit of cellaring. (95 pts.)
  • 1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
    Expressive energetic nose displaying lemon curd, granny smith, white flowers, honey, beeswax, candied ginger, white pepper and limestone. There is a hint of apple peel which is a slight distraction. Excellent concentration, concentrated ripe yet pure yellow fruit, fine generous mousse, bright acidity, good limestone mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit and white pepper driven finish. Although coming from the same batch, not as youthful as the last bottle. Nevertheless, it is really enjoyable. (95 pts.)
  • 2000 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Oenotheque Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    Beautifully integrated expressive nose displaying ripe and rich yet pure yellow fruit, lemon curd, candied lemon peel, white and yellow peach, candied ginger, smoke, marzipan and limestone mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered yellow fruit, rich yet pure and refreshing, generous fine mousse, good acidity and mineral, and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of smoke and ginger at the end. It is drinking beautiful. This has reached the youthful peak. (95 pts.)
  • 1988 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
    Perfectly mature Krug nose displaying subtle yet decadent yellow fruit, tarte tatin, lemon curd, orange marmalade, a hint of red currant, brioche, honey, cinnamon, strong black truffle and mineral. Beautifully integrated palate, finely layered, sweet rich yellow fruit, very fine medium abundant mousse, rich yet energetic and precise, bright acidity, good limestone mineral and a seamless long rich yet pure yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of brioche and honey at the end. Drinking perfectly and absolutely no reason to wait. (97 pts.)

White Burgundy - Flight 1

  • 2002 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Auxey-Duresses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Auxey-Duresses
    Expressive fully mature nose displaying incredibly concentrated opulent yellow fruit, apricot, peach, pineapple, crème brulee, coconut, sweet spices, honey and earth. Incredible concentration, especially for an Auxey Duresses, packed deeply toned rich yellow fruit, fat and oily, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium to long opulent sweet yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of caramel and coconut at the end. Although it is a remarkable effort, there is absolutely no way to justify the current price. I imagine the 02 Marcassin will be similar but more complex and much cheaper. (93 pts.)
  • 2002 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Youthful medium expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe yellow fruit, lemon curd, a hint of peach and butterscotch, spicy spices and limestone. Fully integrated harmonious palate, nicely layered rich yellow fruit, good precision and purity, medium acidity, strong mineral presence and a long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of butter scotch and spicy spices at the end. Not as profound as the last bottle which came from the same batch. (94 pts.)
  • 2004 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Premoxed. NR (flawed)

White Burgundy - Flight 2

  • 1997 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Very light color which is expected from a properly cellared Raveneau. Incredibly youthful energetic nose displaying fresh white fruit, fresh lemon, pear, beeswax, white flower, saline, spice spices and crushed rock. Beautifully integrated palate, very finely layered fresh white fruit, incredibly precise and detailed, medium acidity, strong presence of mineral and a long fresh white citrus fruit driven finish with white flower and crushed rock at the end. This clearly demonstrates the freshness and richness of Raveneau wines. A great pleasant surprise, absolutely gorgeous! (96 pts.)
  • 2000 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Just like the 97, very light color which is expected from a properly cellar Raveneau. Beautiful harmonious nose displaying subtle white fruit, fresh lemon, pear, a hint of burnt sugar, vanilla, cool mountain stream, saline and wet stone. Fully integrated palate, finely layered subtle yet fresh and energetic white fruit, pure and precise, slight lacking acidity which is compensated by strong wet stone mineral, and a long subtle white fruit driven finish with strong wet stone at the end. The 00 Valmur is very similar to the 97 but not as energetic and exciting. It is interesting to note that the 00 is trading significantly higher than the 97. Drinking beautifully. (94 pts.)
  • 2005 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Initial reductive showing a lot of Sulphur but blows off. Youthful energetic nose displaying decadent yellow fruit, lemon curd, pear, pineapple, pine needle, beeswax, honey, saline, cool mountain stream, spicy spices and wet stone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated yellow fruit, ripe and opulent yet pure and precise, good acidity, strong wet stone mineral and a long concentrated yellow fruit driven finish with beeswax and wet stone at the end. This is a big scale Chablis that retains beautiful balance and harmony. Initially, everyone prefers the 97 but this is the WOTF at the end. Exceptional showing and consistent with the last bottle. (97 pts.)

Red Rhone - Flight 1

  • 1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    Perfectly mature nose displaying sweet slightly dry red fruit, strawberry jam, a hint of cherry, cherry brandy, charred rare steak, ash, tar, black pepper, tapenade, rose, garrigue and earth. Perfectly integrated harmonious palate, beautifully layered subtle sweet red fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a seamless long subtle red fruit driven finish with tapenade and rose at the end. This seems at least a decade further along than the 90 La Chapelle. This is very “Chave” and doesn’t display the 90 ripeness like the La Chapelle. Unless you want a very Burgundian expression, there is really a very little incentive to wait. The feminine expression is similar to Jamet. Drinking exceptional well. (97 pts.)
  • 1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    Very youthful example. Explosive nose displaying very ripe black fruit, blackberry concentrate, blackberry liqueur, black cherry, licorice, tar, ink, a hint of mint, tobacco, tapenade, garrigue, beef blood, dark spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of explosive sweet black fruit, unctuous yet fluid and silky, good acidity, strong earthy mineral and an incredibly long intense black fruit driven finish with licorice and tar at the end. This monumental scale wine remains so darn youthful. A properly cellar example can improve for a few more decades. I will not be surprise if this becomes like the monumental 61. I assume the ripe expression will subside in another decade or two, showing great harmony and balance. When that day comes, this will easily surpass the 90 Chave… but for now I slightly prefer the red fruit expression and beautiful harmony of the 90 Chave. (96 pts.)

Red Rhone - Flight 2

  • 1980 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Beautifully mature nose displaying subtle sweet red and black fruit, raspberry jam, blackberry, black cherry, mint, licorice, cola, smoked bacon, black truffle, caramel, tapenade, garrigue, leather, tobacco and mineral. Fully integrated palate, still showing a good amount of sweet black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with tobacco and tapenade at the end. A classic Cote Rotie, there is nothing modern about this wine. Drinking beautifully, no need to wait. (95 pts.)
  • 1990 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Expressive youthful nose displaying decadent black fruit, blackberry liqueur, black cherry, a hint of mint, cappuccino, smoked bacon, tapenade, black pepper and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of decadent black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long sweet black fruit driven finish with cappuccino and smoke bacon at the end. It is halfway between the 90 Chave and La Chapelle in development. Just like the 80 La Mouline, there is nothing modern about it. Drinking beautifully but will easily hold for a couple more decades. (97 pts.)
  • 1999 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Cuvée la Belle Hélène - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    I am so looking forward to try this again as the last bottle was simply perfect. Unfortunately, it is corked. NR (flawed)

Piedmont

  • 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Very pretty nose displaying soft sweet red fruit, strawberry and raspberry jam, a hint of cherry cola, fruitcake, anise, black tea, caramel, sweet spices and iron. Beautifully integrated, very finely layered subtle sweet red fruit, soft, warm and round, pure and precise, subtle acidity, good iron mineral, and a seamless long sweet red fruit driven finish with tea and iron at the end. Really lovely feminine expression. It has reached the peak and drinking beautifully. An interesting contrast to a more concentrated and masculine expression of the 00 red label Falletto. (95 pts.)
  • 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Youthful expressive nose displaying concentrated ripe red fruit, cherry pie, dry cherry, blackberry jam, licorice, ink, tar, rose, dark spices, leather and strong iron. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated red fruit with a hint of black, unctuous and warm, medium acidity, strong iron mineral, still noticeable tannins and a long concentrated sweet red fruit driven finish with rose and dark spices at the end. This seems more concentrated and masculine than the last bottle from May. It is drinking beautifully with ample fruit but can improve for another decade or two. It is at the similar stage of development as the 00 Monfortino that is served next. Excellent showing. (97 pts.)
  • 2000 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Incredibly youthful nose displaying intense black fruits, blackberry jam, black cherry, fruitcake, strong iron, licorice, tar, balsamico, caramel, leather, baking spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated black fruit, unctuous yet silky and polished, bright acidity, strong iron mineral and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish with dark spices and licorices at the end. This very youthful wine has entered the early stage of peak and drinking beautifully. However, it can easily improve for another decade or two. (97 pts.)

Egon Muller

  • 2007 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Very light golden color. Exquisite harmonious nose displaying perfectly ripe yellow peach, apricot tart, mango, honey, vanilla, crème brulee, cinnamon and limestone. Beautifully balanced palate, very finely layered peach, oily yet weightless, exceptional precision and detail, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral, and a seamless long sweet peach driven finish with a hint of honey and sweet spices at the end. Just like great D’Yquems, Egon Muller wines magically combine intensity, balance and weightlessness. For a few people, WOTN. (97 pts.)

This was another memorable evening of sharing great wines with great friends. A great time was had by all.
Posted from CellarTracker

Nice wines! It’s been a long time since Eric regularly posted on his wines but I recall him being especially fond of the Rhône. Good to see you all provided a few!
And a nice showing for the ‘97 Valmur. When I drank one ages ago I wasn’t impressed. Your TN sounds really great though.

Really a terrific night and a great crew. Thanks all for the hospitality!

Nice wines chaps.

I wish we could have gifted you some of the sulphur from our bottle of '04 Leflaive last week. Enough in ours to ensure no oxygen in at least a 11 other bottles.

Kevin

Yet another great list …

D’Auvenay Auxey-Duresses 2002 : neither Les Clous nor les Boutonniers ?

Who is Eric?

Yes, it was just village.

Eric posted above you. I guess you don’t use CellarTracker.

What’s the ‘whitehouse wine list incident’? *assuming it’s not political.

Quite a night! I’ve had the 1990 Chave and La Chapelle side-by-side several times and it has been about 50/50 as to which I’ve preferred but I agree that the La Chapelle has the longer future.

One minor nit, I think you have a typo in your note on the Asili when you refer to the 04 red label Falletto.

D’Auvenay Auxey-Duresses can be excellent (2000 Boutonniers, 2001 Les Clous).
Raveneau is often great and so much cheaper (I recently paid 50 euros for a great Butteaux 2010 - 18,5/20 - in a very good restaurant in Chablis - au fil du zinc).

Ah, but how many OMFGs were there, Eric? This is one report where maybe one feels less bad about a couple of flawed bottles when everything else showed so brilliantly for you. I have only had Raveneau twice in my life (once off the list at Univerre which you and Kelly directed me to), I will look to correct that in the coming year or two. The 95 version of the Monfortino is still youthful but stands right now as my #2 WOTY.

Salud, glad you got to see some of the gang. Terrific notes as always, Kevin.

Mike

Corrected! Thanks for pointing out.

I posted tasting notes on wines at a State Dinner in 2012. Media chaos ensued. UK State Dinner - CellarTracker

Me.