The parents came to town for a visit, and after dinner we dropped by Pogo’s where some very fine Bollingers were being served. The following notes are brief as we did not have time to linger and give them their due. But I was sufficiently impressed by what I saw that I wanted to share.
2007 Bollinger Grand Annee
Lovely bright light yellow color, attractive nose of apple, pear and citrus fruits, on the palate more assertive and full-bodied than expected, it does not have quite the strength of the excellent 2004- but it does share with that wine an excellent persistence and length, roasted walnuts, a light cream tone that should develop a bit further, baked bread, apple and pear notes, very fine length, an excellent Bollinger that should age well in the mid-term and also drink well young while the 2004 snoozes in the cellar. ****, now to 2035.
2007 Bollinger Grand Annee Rose
Good light salmon color, a more ethereal nose than the Grand Annee tasted alongside, strawberries, tangy citrus, apple notes, and a nicely persistent floral note, on the palate a more genteel presence than Grand Annee but still with the same impressive persistence and on the full-bodied side compared to other major houses, superb length and a fine mousse already evident, this does not have quite the same intensity as the 2004 but is every bit as nuanced. Ready to drink but should develop a bit with time. **(), now to 2030.
2006 Bollinger Brut Rose Special Edition
To start things off- and this is fair game for a high end champagne TN since presentation matters- I have to say the packaging is really splendid. A rose-gold toned metal box made with letter cut-outs to spell out the Bollinger name. For gift-giving, this is as good as it gets.
And I have to say the wine is just as impressive. I do not like the 2006 vintage in champagne. I generally find it heavy and too sweet. No such issues here. An attractive moderate salmon color, on the nose there is some of the sweetness and heft of the 2006 vintage and yet there is a creamy richness to counter it well, on the palate strawberries, sweet citrus, pears, and sugar-coated mineral tones, it has the forwardness and generosity of the vintage without being overly hefty as even some of the best wines are in that year, good length, very much ready to drink now but I think it could develop a bit with further age. **(*), now to 2025.
2004 Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut
Note- given the timing of bottles being opened at the tasting, this pour was from a freshly opened bottle and swirled aggressively as tasted over a 5-10 minute period
Fine young champagne color, intense nose of bread, apples and pears, some citrus notes, on the palate full-bodied with the same marvelous savage intensity of the Grand Annee and Grand Annee Rose tasted in the last couple of years, a broad array of primary orchard fruits, soft mineral edges, white flowers, and most notable of all a near tidal wave of cream in the background that is waiting for its day to come bursting forth, dark hints of mousse, length to burn, a brooding beauty, I bought a bottle to open next week at a tasting in NYC and look forward to seeing how it performs over a period of 2+ hours, for now this is a remarkably approachable champagne that has the potential to be a truly decadent creamy beauty in the fullness of time. One of the most impressive champagnes I have had in the last few years and certainly a top 2004. (*), 2025-2055.