Il Chiosso Colline Novaresi Nebbiolo 2010 - 13% abv; c.22€
8yo is by no means old for a Nebbiolo but it is nice to see something a little older than the most recent release. And this is actually drinking very nicely. An obscure producer (to me) and a lesser known region in Piemonte so I had to try it.
And it was a million times more interesting than the 1999 Barbaresco I posted on a couple days ago. A very classic lighter Nebbiolo style like you see from Ghemme, Gattinara and all those lovely appellations that aren’t as famous as Barolo and Barbaresco. It is wonderfully aromatic with all those stereotypical red berry aromas expected of the grape with some liquorice root thrown in (see how I managed to dodge the stereotype of tar and roses with other red/black combos? Goodness how I hate wine writing conventions and why can’t I just break out of them?).
And best of all, it is wonderfully refreshing and vibrant on the palate. Unlike the soupy textures of the Barbaresco I posted on recently, this has all the jagged corners and clarity that I love in the best examples of Nebbiolo. It’s not overly tannic or acidic but it has proper structure that makes it very moreish. One of the very common cases where an 0,75 bottle was not the right size but one of the extremely rare cases where I feel a magnum would have been better than a half.
Yup, Otto…IlChiosso is a good producer in the Gattinara area. I’ve had the Nebbiolo and the Faro and liked them
both quite a lot, particularly the Faro.
Tom
Fara-Sizzano-Ghemme are all on the same pretty straight road (SP299) and it’s only 5.5 km between them. Plenty of argument that they ought to get amalgamated, but history will I’m sure hold out. Gattinara about 5km from Ghemme as the crow flies, but it’s a bit further by road in order to cross the Sesia river near Romagnano Sesia.
and to be ‘king picky of the picky people’, farro is the grain (spelt), whilst faro is a lighthouse or a beacon.
Tam. I like that! I’ve had a couple from Chiosso: a very nice 2011 Gattinara and an appropriately waspish 2016 Vespolina. A 2008 Ghemme is on deck for sometime in the next month, if I can figure out an appropriate substitute for Salam d’la duja to make some paniscia. Yes, Il Chiosso is good!
Ian,
I like them, But if I were a Novarese wine grower, I’d mainly plant Nebbiolo. And to paraphrase Tom, I don’t see this grape being planted up and down the coast of California!
and I don’t think I disagree with you
However I’ve been impressed how they age, and would be interested to see 1-2 producers have a go at producing the equivalent of a Vespolina riserva (as long as that wasn’t slathered in oak or otherwise neutered in the pursuit of misguided ‘prestige’). I think there may be unrealised potential.
Nice to see this producer get some attention on here!
Had a nice visit to the domaine in 2015 while on summer holidays and really enjoyed their wines. Picked up several of the 2008s, the vintage they were selling in 2015, and been following them since. Most recent bottle of the Gattinara this summer was excellent, and gave me an impression of having reached a stage of real completeness with structure becoming spherical and without any edges, great stuff.
2008 Il Chiosso Gattinara- Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara (14/06/2018)
Such a good showing tonight. Reserved nose, with dried cherries, leather and spices, maybe even a touch of chocolate, really complex and subtle. On palate, we are treated to a wonderful satin texture, tannins are perfectly integrated and seamlessly melded with a touch of sweet dried cranberries. While there is just a touch of heat, the wine finishes with dried roses. Delightful, and the best this wine has showed yet. (92 pts.) Posted from CellarTracker
As an aside, given the price they were selling this (around €15 at the domaine), i can’t believe how they manage the economics of this when the aging for Gattinara is 5 years! Anyway, ‘Corragio’ to the vignerons of this region…
On the Vespolina, last year had the 2011, which was pretty good, just a little rustic and not as complete as their nebbiolo wines. Don’t how it would have aged though…
2011 Il Chiosso Vespolina- Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (30/11/2017)
Garnet colour. Attractive nose with dusty, earthy oak, dark cherries, some lifted liquorice, floral tones. Bit rustic on the palate, slightly chunky tannin but good freshness, some herbal quality. Really quit nice and reminds me a bit of persan from Savoie… Posted from CellarTracker
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