Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli ++

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Blake Brown
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Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli ++

#1 Post by Blake Brown » November 30th, 2018, 4:17 pm

Our dinner group enjoyed another fabulous evening at one of our favourite restaurants, Ca Dario Ristoranti Italiano, which is a somewhat new location for them in Goleta. The owner/ chef, Dario Furlati, is regularly on the premises to get this one established and it`s obvious it has taken off and perhaps even surpassed the still quite successful original Santa Barbara restaurant.

For each of our dinners, we select a wine theme to match the cuisine and on this night our choice was super Tuscans along with the usual requests for champagne, white Burgundy and Rieslings. Nine of us paired numerous antipasti and primi with the following wines:

2005 LILBERT-FILS BLANC de BLANC GRAND CRU BRUT CRAMANT- I got turned on to this release from an email notice that sounded very appealing and found it through Wine-Searcher in a wine shop in Texas. I opted for a couple of bottles and after sampling this one, I`m happy I did; it was creamy rich and full bodied and yet had elegance and charm; it was fully loaded with pear and citrus fruit, especially lemon and lime and distinct notes of honeysuckle, butterscotch and minerality provided just the right accents.

This producer makes only grand cru blanc de blancs from 100% Chardonnay; their annual production is so small at about 2,000 12 pack cases, it`s hard to find and obtain any before they sell out; this release is made only in good years, and the production averages 165 cases of 750 ml plus 1,000 bottles of magnums; they make all of their wine from their own vineyards, which breaks down into 15 parcels in the grand cru villages of Oiry (10% of their total plantation), Chouilly (30%), and Cramant (60%) on the Côte des Blancs.

Note that Cramant should not be confused with crémant. Crémant once used to be a term reserved for a style of Champagne with less pressure–and indeed the village of Cramant has a tradition of making wine in such a style, so much so that Lilbert’s Perle was once labeled as Crémant de Cramant. But those days are gone and now crémant legally refers to all méthode Champenoise wine made within France but outside of the Champagne appellation.

2009 TANTARA CAROUSEL BLANC de NOIR CENTRAL COAST SPARKLING WINE- a first time exposure to this gem which gave nice fresh red fruit especially dried red cherry, berry; it`s tasty and hearty and impressive.

NV CHARLES HEIDSIECK BRUT ROSE RESERVE- this bottle gave generous amounts of toasty strawberry and red raspberry with a spicy undertone and was delivered in a full bodied, creamy texture; it had ideal balance and pleased from the nose through the tail.

2016 JJ PRUM WEHLENER SONNENHOUR SPATLESEse- flint and petrol dominate the nose early on, but honeyed lemon and lime take over on the palate along with some tropical and herbal notes blending in; it was rich and viscous and improved with time in the glass.

2012 MARC COLIN EN REMILLY SAINT-AUBIN 1er Cru- this was another wondrous bottle of this treasure we`ve had many times; it enticed with aromatics of mint, lavender and tropical fruit which moved on to express as kiwi, lemon and lime on the palate; it was full bodied, had that great soft characteristic mouthfeel and stayed on for a long welcomed finish; sweet oak influence is noted and nicely integrated.

1997 ANTINORI SOLAIA TOSCANA- it had a still very youthful dark garnet color and the nose gave loads of enticing ripe dark fruit; a subtle but nonetheless evident and unexpected hit of Brett was present; I’ve never had a Solaia with Brett in it and I held off mentioning it until another voiced it.

1998 TENUTA dell`ORNELLAIA “ORNELLAIA” BOLGEHRI SUPERIORE- 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot; this rocked big time; the nose was so inviting and just exuded class and royalty with herbal accented blackberry; the taste profile was redolent of black cherry, blackberry and black currant enhanced by a streak of milk chocolate; the mouthfeel was stellar with a silky smooth texture and the wine just hung around on the palate begging for another taste to enrich the last pour. I obliged a few times. At the end of the evening it was voted #2 WOTN; thats how good #1 was.

2005 FONTODI FLACCIANELLO della PIEVE COLLI della TOSCANA CENTRALE- 100% Sangiovese; the color was a vibrant dark purple denoting the youthfulness which was substantiated once nosed and tasted; it gave huge amounts of coffee and mocha laden blackberry fruit; it was more than full bodied and had layers of complexity that just kept unfolding; this wine needs an entire evening to track and enjoy and would be better served after a few hours of decanting; in fact, one could plan a fabulous entire evening around this wine as the feature.

2004 TUA RITA REDIGAFFI ROSSO TOSCANA- Merlot; affectionally called Masseto Jr. by our group, this was the bomb on this night and has shown to be so, pretty much on a continuous basis over the years regardless of vintage; the 04` is not shabby; in fact, it shined to the point of being our #1 WOTN; the fruit profile was of fresh blueberries and blackberries with accents of licorice and dark mint chocolate; I recall previous bottles were super astringent, but the tannins seemed to now have fully integrated and this seamless beauty is in beautiful balance.

2007 TENUTA degli DEI CAVALLI TOSCANA- a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Alicante; young and vivacious, this showed nicely with lots of fruit forwardness, but not to a fault; fresh and ripe black cherry, berry is delivered aromatically and on the palate with an underlying oak influence, again not to a fault; it held on and provided a steady pleasing aura throughout and got my attention as to being a wine I`d like to have in my cellar.

2009 DUEMANI ALTROVINO COSTA TOSCANA- 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot; delicious wine with coffee and leather laced black fruit, full bodied, soft tannins and long at the back end.

2009 CASTILLO de RAMPOLLA SAMMARCO TOSCANA- a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon; dark ruby purple color; blue and blackberry pie here with the hallmark being its amazing silky texture; medium to full bodied, lots of depth and length; liked this a lot.

2005 LA BONCIE ‘LE TRAME” CHIANTI CLASSICO TOSCANA- 90% Sangiovese; 10% Colorino/ Mammolo/ Ciliegiolo/ Fogliatonda; nice enticing nose of red roses attaching to the bright red fruit notes; on the palate it gave spicy red cherry/ berry with a bit of astringency that did not overwhelm; it finished with more sweetness and less tannic acidity; it may have been more relevant if it had been served prior to some of the big guns, in fact, it should have been our first red IMHO.

Le Trame means “the intrigues” which relates to the wheeling and dealing required to purchase the land.

2011 CHATEAU CLIMENS BARSAC- 375 ml; this was really good with thick and luscious honeyed grapefruit, pear and citrus fruit; it was tangy and pretty intense to the point a little sip of this and the one to follow was all I needed for my dessert course to be fully satisfied.

1959 ANTONIO FERRARI SOLARIA JONICA PUGLIA- 500 ml; this was the 3rd wine made by Ferrari [the first were from 49` and 54`} made from overripe Primitivo aged 10 years in Slovenian wooden casks and then kept for another 35 years in a cement cask; it was released by his daughter after Antonio passed in the early 2000s; needless to say, it was a very serious wine with an almost inky dark color; the nose and taste was replete with dried raisin and prune notes with a huge dose of dark chocolate and later on a hit of maple; one stated quiet accurately it was like a recioto and Port had been blended together; nonetheless, it was a unique and quite interesting experience.

Another fine evening of great food and wine with great friends. Life continues to be really good.

Cheers,
Blake
Last edited by Blake Brown on December 1st, 2018, 12:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"In victory you deserve Champagne. In defeat, you need it".
Napolean Bonaparte

“Remember gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!” – Winston Churchill

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Canalli

#2 Post by Joshua Kates » November 30th, 2018, 4:26 pm

I have the '04 of Tua Rita bordeaux blend, the Giustu di Notra. It has also never disappointed over the years.

As always, thanks for the fun and informative notes!

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#3 Post by H Bongiovi » December 1st, 2018, 6:29 am

Great notes as always Blake! It was a wonderful night!

my impressions . . .

bubbles . . .
2005 Lilbert-Fils Cramant Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru Champagne: bright lemon infused flaky biscuits with a chalky dry finish; fabulous way to start the night
Tanara Carousel Blanc de Noir Rose: packed with young red fruit
Charles Heidsieck Reserve Rose Brut Champagne: lively, effervescent and joyous; the bright acidity balanced with plush soft creamy red fruit; wonderful

white Burgh . . .
2012 Marc Colin et Fils Saint Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru: key lime pie and lemon meringue pie living together in hedonistic sin; I felt a little dirty afterwards

reds . . .
2007 Cavalli Tenuta Degli Dei, Toscana: very Italian; bitter cherry skins and dark leather dominant the palate which finishes with a sharp bite; rustic, with an Old World presence; drink; the polar opposite of the . . .

1997 Solaia: wow, nose of blueberries and milk chocolate; palate of velvety dark fruit; incredible depth and character; beautifully integrated sweet rich cherry nectar supported by bright acidity; sappy long finish; maturing more rapidly than the Ornellaia;drink or hold for another handful of years
1998 Ornellaia: back-to-back ‘wow’ wines; second time with this bottle over the last six months; both bottles were excellent; dark chocolate, mint, eucalyptus and tobacco swirl around your head enveloping the senses; incredible complexity; long sweet finish; still quite youthful; drink or hold another decade (three votes for WOTN)

2004 Redigaffi: translucent and transcendent; firing on all cylinders; violets waft from the glass followed by a palate awash with impeccably balanced fruit; the creamy fruit is seamless and light on its feet, blueberries, boysenberries, blackberries . . . .; so youthful that it seemingly explodes from the glass; mine and the groups’ WOTN (4 votes); drink or hold
2005 Flaccianello: interesting nose of sassafras and cream soda; palate full of dark fruit and pine resin; long black licorice finish; at over a dozen years of age, still very young and a bit awkward and clunky tonight; hold

2009 Duemani "Altrovino” Toscana (Merlot and Cabernet Franc): grapy up-front dark purple fruit followed by black and red licorice; mid-weight and light on its feet; good balance; the only thing I did not like was the finish, which reminded me of cherry cough syrup
2009 Castello Dei Rampolla "Sammarco" Toscana: beautiful bouquet, easily the best nose of the night; fabulous bright raspberry nectar transforms with each sip: blue fruit leads to dusty blackberries then sparkling grape Pixi Stix; seamless fruit; great depth; wonderful beam of acidity and minerality; drying finish; long life ahead, but simply wonderful now; drink or hold (two votes for WOTN)

2015 La Boncia “Le Trame’: I threw this in at the end as an "extra" bottle and it did not disappoint, even amidst the big boys; creamy rich red fruit and vibrant dark red spices; lovely showing; as Blake mentioned, this should have been the first red, since it was an unknown and was kind of lost after the heavy-hitters made their appearance

Dessert . . .
2016 Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuht Spatlese: outstanding as always; tropical fruits abound with guava and pineapple taking the lead
2011 Climens: despite the amber color, still very young; meticulously balanced pineapple and coconut syrup; simply delightful
1959 Antonio Ferrari Solaria Jonica, Puglia: dark and spicy with an Old World charm, kind of like a Sicilian grandmother; a real treat
Henry

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Canalli

#4 Post by Blake Brown » December 1st, 2018, 7:26 am

Joshua Kates wrote:
November 30th, 2018, 4:26 pm
I have the '04 of Tua Rita bordeaux blend, the Giustu di Notra. It has also never disappointed over the years.

As always, thanks for the fun and informative notes!
Appreciate the comments Joshua. Enjoy the GdN.
"In victory you deserve Champagne. In defeat, you need it".
Napolean Bonaparte

“Remember gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!” – Winston Churchill

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#5 Post by Blake Brown » December 1st, 2018, 7:29 am

H Bongiovi wrote:
December 1st, 2018, 6:29 am
Great notes as always Blake! It was a wonderful night!

1959 Antonio Ferrari Solaria Jonica, Puglia: dark and spicy with an Old World charm, kind of like a Sicilian grandmother; a real treat
And back at you Henry for the clearly descriptive notes that say it in so many fewer words than I do and with great humor as well. Love the Sicilian grandmother analogy.
"In victory you deserve Champagne. In defeat, you need it".
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“Remember gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!” – Winston Churchill

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#6 Post by Blake Brown » December 1st, 2018, 8:11 am

BTW and as point of interest, my notes reflect some Brett found in the 97` Solaia. One of our members, a winemaker, stated that Brett is not perceptively expressed until the temperature reaches 62 degrees, a new piece of info to me. My part per million olfactory perception seems super sensitve to it and TCA as well. Often, there are others who do not pick it up. My wife picks up on it way sooner than I do and when it is at less ppm which I believe is true for women in general.
"In victory you deserve Champagne. In defeat, you need it".
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“Remember gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!” – Winston Churchill

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#7 Post by Ed Steinway » December 1st, 2018, 8:22 am

H Bongiovi wrote:
dark and spicy with an Old World charm, kind of like a Sicilian grandmother; a real treat
Love that. That is exactly the way our son and daughter would describe my mother's pasta! Great notes and love reading your notes, Henry.

Cheers,
Ed

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#8 Post by Keith A k e r s » December 1st, 2018, 8:40 am

great notes blake!

My only "beef" is in calling redigaffi as "massetto jr" :). Personally I enjoy the hell out of it when I have it and I don't find it to be as slathered in oak the way the milkshake massetto can sometimes be [cheers.gif]

Great note on the Lilbert as well. One of my favorite producers and I just adore their style. If you haven't tried their Perle, that is certainly worth finding for a different style of champagne than what normally ends up on the shelf.

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#9 Post by Blake Brown » December 1st, 2018, 10:09 am

Keith A k e r s wrote:
December 1st, 2018, 8:40 am
great notes blake!

My only "beef" is in calling redigaffi as "massetto jr" :). Personally I enjoy the hell out of it when I have it and I don't find it to be as slathered in oak the way the milkshake massetto can sometimes be [cheers.gif]

Great note on the Lilbert as well. One of my favorite producers and I just adore their style. If you haven't tried their Perle, that is certainly worth finding for a different style of champagne than what normally ends up on the shelf.
Appreciate your remarks Keith. Re the Masseto analogy, this group has had numerous bottling of Masseto {not from my cellar although I just bought 2} mostly from older vintages and some of us keep searching for a lesser expensive alternative. We've tasted the Redigaffi almost as many times even in a blind format and been surprised and happy to find a likeness and enough pleasure to go with it. Our Millennium dinner is coming up on 12/15 and we are pretty much sure to have a Masseto. I`ll check out the oak issue if so.

I have not tried the Perle and just discovered it exists when researching the Cramant BdB. I will seek it out. Thanks for the tip.
"In victory you deserve Champagne. In defeat, you need it".
Napolean Bonaparte

“Remember gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!” – Winston Churchill

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#10 Post by Travis @llen » December 1st, 2018, 11:20 am

Great notes guys! I had the 04 redigaffi last weekend and it was fantastic!
ITB

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#11 Post by H Bongiovi » December 1st, 2018, 3:28 pm

Ed Steinway wrote:
December 1st, 2018, 8:22 am
H Bongiovi wrote:
dark and spicy with an Old World charm, kind of like a Sicilian grandmother; a real treat
Love that. That is exactly the way our son and daughter would describe my mother's pasta! Great notes and love reading your notes, Henry.

Cheers,
Ed
Thanks for the kind words Ed!
Henry

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#12 Post by Blake Brown » December 6th, 2018, 3:06 pm

Blake Brown wrote:
December 1st, 2018, 10:09 am
Keith A k e r s wrote:
December 1st, 2018, 8:40 am
great notes blake!

My only "beef" is in calling redigaffi as "massetto jr" :). Personally I enjoy the hell out of it when I have it and I don't find it to be as slathered in oak the way the milkshake massetto can sometimes be [cheers.gif]

Great note on the Lilbert as well. One of my favorite producers and I just adore their style. If you haven't tried their Perle, that is certainly worth finding for a different style of champagne than what normally ends up on the shelf.
Appreciate your remarks Keith. Re the Masseto analogy, this group has had numerous bottling of Masseto {not from my cellar although I just bought 2} mostly from older vintages and some of us keep searching for a lesser expensive alternative. We've tasted the Redigaffi almost as many times even in a blind format and been surprised and happy to find a likeness and enough pleasure to go with it. Our Millennium dinner is coming up on 12/15 and we are pretty much sure to have a Masseto. I`ll check out the oak issue if so.

I have not tried the Perle and just discovered it exists when researching the Cramant BdB. I will seek it out. Thanks for the tip.
Just remembered our group also has another fav with lightweight Masseto likeness, its the Petrolo Galatrona which we call "baby Masseto". Just saying.
"In victory you deserve Champagne. In defeat, you need it".
Napolean Bonaparte

“Remember gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!” – Winston Churchill

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#13 Post by Mattstolz » December 6th, 2018, 4:35 pm

Blake Brown wrote:
December 6th, 2018, 3:06 pm


Just remembered our group also has another fav with lightweight Masseto likeness, its the Petrolo Galatrona which we call "baby Masseto". Just saying.
I've got a young one of these from JJBuckley right now and am wondering how long to hold it before opening. what would you suggest?

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Re: Dinner with many fine wines especially some top Super Tuscans such as Redigaffi,Ornelaia,Solaia,Flaccianello,Cavalli

#14 Post by Blake Brown » December 6th, 2018, 4:41 pm

Mattstolz wrote:
December 6th, 2018, 4:35 pm
Blake Brown wrote:
December 6th, 2018, 3:06 pm


Just remembered our group also has another fav with lightweight Masseto likeness, its the Petrolo Galatrona which we call "baby Masseto". Just saying.
I've got a young one of these from JJBuckley right now and am wondering how long to hold it before opening. what would you suggest?
They show well in their youth, full bodied, loads of fruit and lots of structure. I open one every once in a while, give it a few hours decant and go for it. For those who want the best of the best, wait 15 years from vintage date.
"In victory you deserve Champagne. In defeat, you need it".
Napolean Bonaparte

“Remember gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!” – Winston Churchill

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