02 Dauvissat-Camus Forêt was fabulous, gaining strength hour by hour. Minerals, citrus zest, super acidity, it seemed far younger than its age, absolutely outstanding. 04 DRC Echezeaux was also wonderful—no green, super bouquet with spices and dark red fruits that echoed on the long finish. Really one of the best Ech I have tasted. Last was 98 La Tâche, a wine promised to my son if he passed the California bar, as I had delivered on the same promise a couple years ago for his sister, my daughter. At first, as expected, compared to the Ech it was dense and closed, more reticent, though a lighter color in the glass. Over time the wine unfolded like unrolling an Oriental carpet, spices and layers, just a dazzling wine. The depth and texture were impressive, the wine changing through the evening. My daughter’s boyfriend, great with wine descriptors, found saffron and fenugreek as well as Asian spices. Dark fruits, griotte cherry also, it was a super wine, able to age and with good acidity that lifted the wine. The Ech was pop and pour, the LT slow ox’d for 6 hours prior to decanting. We loved all three and celebrated my son becoming an attorney (sworn in Saturday morning).
Great wines for a great occasion. The DRC 04’s are much above any vintage characteristics. I had the 98 LT a couple years ago at Providence. I wish I had decanted it because it was very tight and didn’t open up much.
With regard to the 02 D-C Forest (they may be the only ones that spell it this way), sadly, fewer and fewer folks keep their Chablis this long. Nice to have a report. I think I have one bottle left.
Congrats to your kids on the bar. And to you for hoarding Dauvissat from the mid 90s. The ‘97 Forest from last month was my last from the 90s. And then I was blinded by premox with the 2000s.