Chameleon wine . . . Duh and Aha

I had a 2014 Castello La Leccia Chianti Classico that was opened yesterday, tasted by some guests, and then vacu-vin’d. I had a two small glasses this evening; the first by itself, the second with a plate of pasta and vegetables. My impressions of this wine were so very different between the two glasses that I could have been drinking two different wines. Without food, I tasted dusty fruit, (dust in foreground, fruit hiding), followed by almost too bright fruit transition, finishing with a warm long aftertaste. Overall the word “rustic” came to mind. Not unpleasant. An OK wine. With food the dustiness disappeared and ripe cherry fruit moved forward, minimal acidity, smooth and balanced. A good wine. I had the last sips of the wine after the meal and the taste returned to the dusty rustic wine. I would never have been able to anticipate this transformation. Although I am sure this type of change is known to many experienced and knowledgeable wine drinkers - a “Duh” moment perhaps, I found this little tasting very interesting – an “Aha” moment for me. Seems to have implications for my future tasting and evaluation: A wine that I think at first is “not very good” might just be missing a good partner to bring out the best in it. “Aha” I say. “Duh” roars the crowd.

For me Italian wines generally and Chianti specifically simply require food to show well. Any other wine I will drink on its own but I tend to save Italian wines not only for food, but for Italian food.

Michael, I am going to take your advice on this. In retrospect, I think that has usually been my experience with Italian wines also, but I never generalized (i.e. learned) from my experiences. Thanks.