Panos organized another top Borddeaux chateau dinner. This time, it was La Conseillante with the GM/Wine maker Marielle Cazaux. For my palate, La Conseillante is one of the most polished Pomerols. Unfortunately it is the earliest maturing top Pomerol, lacking staying power. I have been a big fan of the 89 and the 90 but the fruit started to fade almost a decade ago. Fortunately, the top wines like '05, '09, '10 and '15 showed concentrated fruit and I am certain that they will age well for a few decades.
The dinner was held at Le Café Descartes at the French Embassy. The chef prepared an excellent five course meal. Although the stems were generic, the wine service was very good.
The event took place only two days after returning from the tenth edition of Villa D’Este World Wine Symposium. I was under the weather for almost three weeks and I skipped the champagnes and sauternes. Luckily, my nose was working fine.
Flight 1 - Chestnut Soup
The 01 showed beautifully.
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2001 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Classic Pomerol nose displaying silky black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of plum, rose, black truffle, cappuccino, light caramel, cedar and limestone dust. Perfectly integrated yet youthful palate, very finely layered black fruit, exceptional finesse and purity, silky and polished, bright acidity, strong mineral and a seamless long silky black fruit driven finish with caramel and black truffle at the end. Although there is generous fruit, it has reached the youthful peak and the overall expression is starting to be dominated by secondary notes. It reminds me the 89 vintage at the similar stage but perhaps with a bit more fruit. It is a beautifully balanced classic Pomerol that is drinking beautifully. (94 pts.) -
2003 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
The nose seems to shed most of the 03 overripe fruit. Nevertheless, the fruit expression is dull, lacking purity and freshness of the other vintages. Medium expressive nose displaying cherry liqueur, plum, blackberry jam. caramel, cedar, licorice, cinnamon and erath. There is a hint of vegetal note which I associate with the 03 vintage. Very good concentration, packed ripe red and black fruit, medium acidity and earthly mineral, a hint of slightly coarse tannins and a medium finish. There is the 03 bitterness that clips the finish. Both the nose and the palate are a bit straightforward and boring. Hopefully, this will develop like the top 76 Bordeauxs in due time. (91 pts.) -
2007 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Very fresh and pure nose displaying blackberry, black currant, cherry, truffle, lavender, milk chocolate and limestone dust. There is a hint of green pepper which nicely adds freshness. Medium concentration, subtle finely layered pure black fruit, silky, soft and polished, bright acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and a medium to long sweet black fruit driven finish with limestone dust and caramel at the end. I find it similar to the 01, 04 and 14. Really nice food friendly wine. If you are a traditional Bordeaux lover, this will drink wonderfully for a couple more decades until the fruit is gone. (93 pts.)
Flight 2 - Boudin Blanc
The 05 was incredible.
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2004 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Expressive youthful nose displaying cool black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, a hint of cremes de cassis, plum, cherry, cedar, ash, lavender and limestone dust. Beautifully integrated youthful palate, finely layered cool black fruit, silky and polished, very fine tannins and a medium to long youthful black fruit driven finish. It is drinking nicely but needs another five years to reach the youthful peak. Another wine with very refined palate. (93 pts.) -
2005 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Incredibly intense nose displaying concentrated pure black fruit, blackberry liqueur, cremes de cassis, crushed blackberry, black truffle, dark milk chocolate, sweet spices, liquid smoke, lavender, perfume and limestone dust. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense pure black fruit, unctuous yet silky and fluid, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, tannins are masked by opulent fruit and a seamless long intense black fruit driven finish with liquid smoke and lavender at the end. For my palate, easily surpass the 89 and the 90. My runner up for WOTN. (97 pts.) -
2006 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Initially a bit tight, blackberry jam, plum, cherry, milk chocolate and limestone. With air, it opens up beautifully adding truffle, caramel, licorice, leather, tree bark and earth. Excellent concentration, packed sweet black fruit, dense and slightly rough, good acidity and mineral, very noticeable slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long concentrated black fruit driven finish. There are a hint of bitterness and coarse tannins that clips finish. It is a bit less charming version of the 05. Perhaps another decade of cellaring will help. (93 pts.)
Flight 3 - Arctic Char
The 10 was great, my WOTN.
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2008 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Expressive nose displaying the 08 red fruit, cherry, cherry pie, plum, a hint of stem, truffle, cedar and earth. Medium concentration, bright sweet red fruit, bright acidity, strong stemmy mineral, slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long bright red fruit and cedar driven finish. A very unique expression, different from the others. It will need another decade to reach the peak. (93 pts.) -
2009 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
A big scale nose displaying blackberry, blackberry liqueur, roasted nuts, ink, licorice, espresso bean, dark milk chocolate, cedar, liquid smoke, incense and earth. Exceptional concentration and balance, layers upon layers of ripe yet pure black fruit, dense and oily yet pure and polished, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral, noticeable but very fine tannins and a long intense black fruit driven finish with dark milk chocolate at the end. This beautifully expresses the 09 vintage, i.e. intense opulent yet pure black fruit, impressive concentration and exceptional balance. It will reach the youthful peak in another ten years and will easily improve for another decade or two. As much as I love the 09, I slightly prefer the freshness of the 05 and the 10. (96 pts.) -
2010 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Unbelievably massive scale nose displaying pure black and red fruit, blackberry, cremes de cassis, plum, cherry pie, ink, licorice, liquid smoke, lavender, exotic incense, tobacco and limestone dust. Exceptional concentration, incredibly layered intense pure black fruit, oily yet silky and weightless, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and never ending finish. Despite being very primary, intense pure fruit and beautiful refined palate provide immense pleasure. In another three decades, this will become a monumental wine. Easily my WOTN. (98 pts.)
Flight 4 - Duck Breast
The 98 was a pleasant surprise.
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1990 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Beautifully mature nose displaying subtle red fruit, cherry, strawberry jelly, caramel, cedar, black truffle, anise, mint and earth. Beautifully integrated palate, nicely layered subtle sweet red fruit, silky and polished, medium acidity and mineral, fully integrated tannins and a medium to long subtle red fruit and cedar driven finish. As much as I love the 89 and the 90 La Conseillante, the fruit seems to be fading, need to be drunk up! (95 pts.) -
1998 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Expressive complex nose displaying decadent red and black fruit, red currant jam, red cherry, a hint of blackberry, caramel, rose, cedar, tobacco and earth. There is a hint of vegetal note that adds freshness. However, Marielle dislikes the green note. Beautifully integrated palate, nicely layered decadent yet pure red fruit, silky and refined, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a seamless long sweet red fruit driven finish with tobacco and caramel at the end. This has reached the youthful peak but can easily improve for another decade. (95 pts.) -
1999 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Medium expressive youthful nose displaying soft red fruit, caramel, truffle, dark spices and earth. Medium concentration, warm and round red fruit, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium long warm red fruit driven finish. The 99 is a fruit forward early drinking wine that is a bit simple, especially compare to the 98 and 00. (92 pts.) -
2000 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Beautiful complex nose displaying subtle but sweet black and red fruit, blackberry jam, red cherry, plum tart, strong black truffle, roasted nuts, cedar, tobacco and earth. Excellent concentration, finely layered red and black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount and mineral, and a seamless long blackberry and plum driven finish with tobacco and earth at the end. It has reach the youthful peak but can improve for another decade. (95 pts.)
Flight 5 - Cheese
The 14 was very pure. The 15 showed great promise.
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2012 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Intense nose displaying ripe red and black fruit, plum and blackberry, licorice, caramel, sweet spices, rose, leather and earth. Excellent concentration, packed ripe red and black fruit, rich and warm, bright acidity, good earthy mineral, a hint of slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long sweet red and black fruit driven earthly finish. This seems a bit chunky, lacking finesse. It will need another two decades to reach the peak. (93 pts.) -
2014 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Clean and energetic nose displaying pure red and black fruit, blackberry, raspberry, rose, sweet spices and limestone dust. Medium concentration, very finely layered pure red and black fruit, clean, precise, polished, and energetic, bright acidity and mineral, silky tannins and a medium to long pure red and black fruit driven finish. I suspect this will develop like the 01 or the 04. (94 pts.) -
2015 Château La Conseillante - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Expressive primary nose displaying crushed blackberry and raspberry, cranberry, lavender, perfume, a hint of truffle already and limestone dust. Clean and energetic palate, concentrated pure red and black fruit, silky and polished, detailed and precise, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, silky tannins and a seamless long primary fruit driven finish. Very impressive and promising. (96 pts.)
Panos outdid himself once again. My heartfelt gratitude!
Posted from CellarTracker