I am close to Coonawarra, both geographically and emotionally, having worked in the wine biz there over a decade ago. I know the people and the wines like the back of my hand.
Coonawarra was for some time perhaps Australia’s most famous wine region, renowned particularly for its Cabernet Sauvignon but also for its Shiraz and Shiraz blends. And then came the Shiraz boom, the export boom and the interest swung to super ripe, super showy Shiraz from the warmer areas of Barossa and McLaren Vale. Coonawarra wines became less visible, particularly in the US market. But Coonawarra wines and its vineyards are undergoing a renaissance, quietly and assuredly. The wines will never be big and showy, but elegant and refined. These two wines reflect the evolution, whilst respecting the history of what Coonawarra does best. These are wines that might rival the legendary 55 Michael, 82 John Riddoch and the like.
2016 The William Wilson Shiraz Cabernet
This is a once off collaboration between two of the oldest families in the district the Balnaves and the Redmans, the wine named after a pioneering forebear of both families, William Wilson who arrived in Coonawarra in 1849, before any vines were planted. The wine is made from old vine fruit from both estates, and like many of the great wines from the early days is a uniquely Australian blend of Shiraz and Cabernet. Despite its youth, it is incredibly harmonious, powerful, but at the same time restrained. Impeccable ripeness, with shimmering black fruits, incredibly sweet tannins, with a long finish. It is nigh on perfect. One of my dining companions suggested that it was the best red wine that she had tasted.
2014 Majella Wines GPL68 Cabernet Sauvignon
Another family owned winery who cut their teeth growing fruit for Wynns, their fruit often contributing to Wynn’s flagship wines, John Riddoch and Michae, before going it alone in teh late 80s. This is a new release for Majella and is their ‘best of the best’ Cabernet. The oak is deftly handled, allowing the fruit to shine and it shows lovely ripe cassis fruit, that is not over the top. It shows elegance and richness, the tannins still asserting themselves, but they’re fine. It could do with some more time to further harmonise, but will live for a very long time.
Thanks for allowing me to indulge myself. These are ‘rara avis’, but both worth the effort of tracking down. They’re not inexpensive and are surpassing Coonawarra’s traditional price point, but they are world class wines.
Loved the William Wilson Kent. My note below.
Cheers
Jeremy
2016 William Wilson Shiraz Cabernet: This is 55% Redman’s Shiraz, off their 80 year-old North End vineyard and 45% Cabernet from Balnaves 43 year-old Paulownia block. It is a wine that is incredibly elegant and stylish, yet there is depth and so much material upon which to age. There’s a subtle whiff of violets and briary red fruits. With air things get a bit deeper and some black cherry and blood plum comes to the fore. It is voluminous in the mouth but with no weight, tannins simply occupy a space. It builds through the palate and finishes with great freshness and verve and flavours persist for a long time.
Thanks for the notes, gentlemen. I love Coonawarra cabs.
The William Wilson sounds awesome.
Kent, Thanks for the notes. What is the retail price of the William Wilson in OZ if you dont mind me asking
Wow, you’re not wrong. Like you said, $300 for the William Wilson and $120 for the GPL68. It’s amazing how quickly Cabernet prices have grown in recent years in Australia. Wines that I’d routinely buy historically for sub $100 are now costing $150+. Woodlands straight Cabernet comes to mind. The Cullen Vanya now retails for $350 per. That’s
quite dear for a Margaret River cabernet by my standards.
I used to seek out wines like this historically and still have quite a bit in my cellar. That said I find it hard to wrap my head around the fact that I can easily find “more value” in Piedmonte that I can in my own backyard, especially given the markup any imported wine gets due to WET.
Yes Andrew, before posting I did give quite a bit of consideration into the price. Is it ‘value’? I thought about all the Bordeaux that is north of $300, wines like Yalumba’s Caley that is $350, 707 which is north of $500. I hadn’t even thought of Cullen Vanya. But yes it is pricey, but it’s so good, I think it is a relative value (despite lack of pedigree like 707, HOG etc). I liked it so much that I am going to buy more.
The value in Piedmont is eroding. $300 won’t buy you a cru from Vietti these days. I just took delivery of a couple of red label Giacoss…mama mia! $400 wouln’t win me a bottle of Guiseppe Rinaldi 09 last week at auction.
The past 5-10 years has seen an explosion of $$$ wines being pushed by producers. Many of the labels are completely unknown to me and appear to be new producers positioning their new labels at top $ compared with slow bracket creep in prices from established marques over number of years.
When I last read about this there were at least 10 in the $500 to $1000 category and another 15 odd producers in the $300-500 mark. Between $100 to $300 there could be 100s. I don’t begrudge the new producers asking top $$ if they can get. Some of them may have requisite experience elsewhere and now starting their own brand. I get the feeling that some may want to create an aura of luxury or exclusiveness when launched rather than slowly earning their stripes and increasing prices gradually.
I am not sure how many actually manage to sell their wines at the prices they command. Some like Penfolds have managed to penetrate the Chinese market very effectively and sell many wines overseas.
The few Australian wines I have purchased in the past 5 years which have been 100+ have been Mount Mary Quintet, Mosswood Cab, Cullen Cab ( not Vanya, although I tasted the 2015 Vanya alongside the standard Cullen Di) and 2014 Mount Pleasant ‘Maurice O’Shea’ Shiraz. Most have just nudged the 100 mark ; O’Shea was at 200 ( just a one off purchase).