In 2004, a friend of mine in France received an offer from an outfit in Bordeaux for sixteen cases of mostly grand cru and premier cru wines from the 2000 vintage of Domaine Leroy. As she was a valued customer, she said she was interested but only if she could negotiate an agreeable price. It took all of two days before the merchant agreed to a 35% discount on all sixteen cases. Soon after, my friend asked if I was interested in splitting the purchase. Faced with the potential of plunging into financial abyss, I was shocked when my wife gave the green light. And so there I was, the owner of eight cases of 2000 Domaine Leroy.
Over the last decade or so, I’ve drunk through the wines twice, mostly in France, charting the evolution of these incredible Burgundies. This past October, I found myself in France for three weeks, and drank through the wines a third time. The arrangement was to drink one bottle with dinner over sixteen nights spread over three weeks, rather than uncork them all in a large tasting. Tastings of this kind never appealed to me and to my friend, first and foremost because it’s impossible to appreciate so many wines in one sitting. Dinner was kept simple - roast chicken, grilled duck, grilled fish, etc., - all the better to showcase the wines.
I did not take notes, but my memory of the wines is still fresh. As a group, Domaine Leroy produced great wines in 2000, and in the case of the Chambertin, Musigny, Latricieres and Corton Charlemagne, profound wines. The premier cru Boudots, Brulees and Narbantons are also spectacular, and the lieu dit Vosne Genaivrieres certainly of premier cru quality.
The wines are starting to turn, and all possess a mesmerizing perfume that made it difficult to go beyond sniffing and smelling. The nose on the Musigny was singular, with a late note of violets that left my friend and I speechless. The wines are medium bodied and concentrated, with lots of fruit still evident. The fruit flavors of the grand cru bottles were palate staining, with finishes that lingered. Texturally, the wines displayed a velvety quality that were downright sensuous. The Corton Charlemagne is the only white in the Domaine portfolio, but it did not take a back seat to the reds. Rich and harmonious, this was sensational to drink.
The wines are drinking well now, but possess years of evolution. As good as they are now, they will be better as the years unfold.
My friend received an offer for the 2001 vintage, but that is a story for another time.