TN: Chateau La Conseillante 1982 -2001

Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol
Bobby Vans Steakhouse, NYC
October 29, 2018

Revisiting bottles from one of Pomerol’s emblematic and best producers with 8 attendees at Manhattan’s Bobby Vans Steakhouse. A fun night with the regular Bordeaux locals where the tomahawk steaks were large, juicy and plentiful, and all the wines showed well, including 1 exceptional performance this evening.

Started and gathered with a crisp Benoit Lahaye Brut Nature (B+) that was big, with gulpable citrus presence and plentiful fruit.

The next wines were the flights of the evening’s main theme.

The 2001 La Conseillante (B+), with its appealing bouquet, and minty, ripe red-fruited structure was quite tight but gained weight and approachability as dinner progressed. Its young flight-mate, the 2000 La Conseillante (B+/A-), showed more robustness and intensity in bouquet and mouth-presence, more completeness and length and definitely a wine that can improve with and withstand many years in the cellar.

Then we moved on to the mid-to-late ’90s. The 1999 La Conseillante (B) was like a good middleweight that at any given night can easily out-perform its vintage peers from other producers; while the 1998 La Conseillante (B+/A-) and the 1995 La Conseillante (B+/A-) were those tightly-muscled young light heavyweights that are clearly exhibiting major potentials with very appealing bouquet, all-around completeness, well delineated dark fruit, leather, herb and mineral components and unquestionable longevity. Be happy if you have any.

The remaining flights were the 1990, 1989 and the 1982. Even as everybody in this group has had many experiences with these wines in various tasting configurations, this was still the highly anticipated flight given proven past performances. The 1990 La Conseillante (A) was tonight’s Queen (or King) of the tasting with its slutty elegance, ripe but beautifully-balanced fruit and integrated components, and even as it screamed “This is a 1990!” it still did so in a long, classy and finessed manner. Tonight, the 1989 La Conseillante (A-) was the excellent All-Star companion just as, for example, Scotty Pippen (1989) would be to Michael Jordan (1990) during their heydays. It was a solid workhorse, with the just the slightly less silkiness and less sweetness than the 1990, but with the overall make-up that would have led tonight’s line-up had the Michael Jordan not been around. Last but not the least was the 1982 La Conseillante (B+). I’ve never equated the 1982 with the stellar 1990/1989 tandem, but this was a quintessential 1982 with very ripe, red/blue fruit and integrated sweet tannin and if this bottle represents, then I think this is as good as it is going to get.

Finally, with the caveat of not having tasted any post 2001 bottles, I can declare that this is one Bordeaux producer whose wines have been consistently pleasurable, fondly recalling those 70s/80s bottles that I’ve had before and which were not in tonight’s dinner.

Great noted, Ramon! One of my favorite estates

Thanks Ramon. My notes and group vote below

Monday was a La Conseillante dinner at Bobby Van’s in midtown East. I was last one there (hey, only 3 minutes late) and found a nice group waiting.

Also waiting was the NV Benoit Lahaye “Naturessence” Champagne. I liked at first- on drier side, pear and apple fruit, some Parker house rolls, touch of nuttiness. But I loved later when I revisited with my crabcake (I can’t really get into meaty appetizers before a steak, nor do I want Pomerol with my crab). White fruits, gunsmoke, chalk, long. A-

On to the reds. I had a rare tomahawk, sides of fries, hash browns, and spinach

2001 Ch. La Conseillante
This was comparatively restrained tight, but clearly with a beautiful underlying structure. Revisited later in evening it had opened nicely- full and deep with redder fruits, espresso notes, long finish. Ramon brought this when I couldn’t find my lone bottle, I really hope I find it (in 10+ years). A-/B+

2000 Ch. La Conseillante
Much more open, red plums and framboise, ripe but not hot, some earth and mushrooms with time. Drinking well already. B+

1999 Ch. La Conseillante
Forward, almost slutty, sweet black cherry, ready to go, fun but with less backbone than other vintages. B

1998 Ch. La Conseillante
Tightest wine of the night, but with enormous potential. Black cherry and raspberry, smoke, floral notes, but mostly wrapped up tight. Firm but integrated acids and tannn. Should be very long lived. B+ for now

1995 Ch. La Conseillante
Red fruits, mocha, open and giving, but with plenty of structure. A-

1990 Ch. La Conseillante
Whoa, just a great showing. Ripe black fruit, balanced, elegant. Rich fruit accented with cigarbox and truffle. A-/A

1989 Ch. La Conseillante
Structured, cassis and earth, herby, really good. A-
1982 Ch. La Conseillante
Not as fresh as the 89/90 pair, but nice mature Pomerol with black plum fruit and cocoa.
B+

No wine that I wouldn’t happily drink. Group voting for WOTN
1990 23 pts (my #1)
1989 15 pts (my #3)
1995 7 pts (my #2)
1982 2 pts
1998 1 pt

Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Amazing lineup. We had a 98 last year which had really improved since its youth.

Tough crowd when that vintage comes in last place!

Not last - 1999 and 2001 had no points. But 01 is a very good wine too! I haven’t had the 99. I really like 98 as well.

I’m a bit surprised and very encouraged that the 1995 showed so well. It has been atypically tough for La Conseillante and I happen to have more of it than any other.

Not a tough crowd. It’s just that the 89/90 stood out as the cream of an impressive crop of wines during the dinner. Both the 1998 and 2001 were cited positively during the dinner, just as the other wines were.

I have a case of the 2000, minus one I drank about 9 months ago, which was very good. I’d give it an A- in your scheme. It was quite accessible right out of the bottle and should develop and drink well over the next 10 years. Nice to hear comparatively about other vintages.

How would the 1994 be now?
I am serving it with the 1994 Lafleur this month

Perfect timing; winemaker is in NY and making the rounds this week. The winery is very obviously looking to move upwards in the hierarchy on the back of very fine wines in 2015 and by reputation, as I have not tasted it, 2016.

Prices are on the rise. Probably a good call to be buying older vintages.

Super notes Ramon and Dale!

Your experience fits quite well with my recent impressions. In my experience the 1990 has forged ahead of the 1989 while the 1982 is still showing brilliantly and keeps the 1990 honest. I have not had the 1985 in a while, which is the darling of Brit right bank aficionados. I am unconconvinced by the 1999 and the 1995 seems to lack the precocious magic of the 1980s vintages, but glad that it is finally coming out of its shell. A very special estate. In great hands now too.

Mark the 2016 is very special.

Look forward to seeing you tomorrow Ramon in London for our Northern Rhône extravaganza!

I had the 94 last year and liked it quite a bit. It’s a bit lean and rough as 94s are but has a nice nose.

Wow, have fun guys! Color me green. Have a cleansing ale or three for me.

Great notes Ramon and Dale. Sorry I missed this one - looks like I missed a good one!

I brought the 89 and white it was excellent, I think I’ve had even better bottles from my cellar. Still have a bunch so hopefully we’ll be drinking the wine again together. Thanks for the notes Ramon!

Yes, let’s hope so!