At first bell pepper and overwhelming cigarette ash on the nose, and not in any way pleasant. After an hour or so in the decanter, the cigarette ash fades into the background, leaving plum and cassis, bell pepper, olive, bitter chocolate, and more of dried tobacco than the initially off putting cigarette ash. Supple and well balance mid weighted, but with depth and length. This has lovely balance, the fruit is lively but plays a secondary role to the more savory aspects of the wine. Quite long and very drinkable. The tannins have faded and this drinks beautifully right now in an understated mode. Some menthol notes on the back end add to its length. Hedonists run away as quickly as you can. Outstanding and at peak. 93 (93 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
Great note Todd. I’ve had three of these over the years and enjoyed each one. I still have a few more. I, too, think this is at peak, but I don’t have any urgency to drinking the remaining.
I concur, this is a terrific wine. Found my own CT note from a few years back:
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1989 Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l’Olive - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (14.5.2015)
Translucent cherry red color with noticeable pale bricking in the rim. Attractive textbook bouquet of an aged Cabernet Franc with pronounced aromas of bell pepper and chipotle with supporting notes of wet sous-bois, ripe cranberry, mature floral aromatics, some pencil shavings, a melange of green and black pepper, a little licorice and a whiff of meatiness. Dry, moderately full-bodied palate with rather modest acidity and ripe, resolved and yet quite firm and slightly grippy tannins. Complex, mature flavors of pronounced bell pepper and chipotle, green pepper, sous-bois, old dry wood, some cranberry, a little grassy or leafy vegetal notes and a hint of sour cherry. The palate seems a bit more ripe and slightly sweeter than the nose, courtesy of a warm vintage. Some grassy vegetal notes in the mature, complex, persistent and constantly evolving finish with flavors of cranberry, pencil shavings, cedar and developed characteristics of leather, mocha, tobacco and wizened pruney fruit.
An immensely delicious and impressive single vineryard Chinon with still lots of years ahead - despite its rather low acidity. Lots of complex, developed notes but still full of life, fruit and structure. Drinking wonderfully now and probably peaking already, but will most likely keep for years in a cellar. A tremendously good purchase at 45€. (96 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
I’m also a fan of Loire CF’s from that era! Here’s my note from last year, and an '82 as well:
Laterals: Chinon, Chilean cab, Carmenere
Final call: 2003 Chinon (ripe vintage).
Actually: 89 couly dutheil clos l’olive.
Analysis: I’m in the right region but totally misread the vintage! This is quite alive and in a good place. **(90 pts.)
**
- medium body
- moderate alcohol (felt 13%, but bottle says 12.5%)
- medium tannins, still grippy but very developed
- elevated acid, crystalline and persistent.
A long finish that sails along with acidity, dried fruit, and persistent savory pyrazinic dried flowers. Developed and wise. I love this style! (93 pts.)
Thanks for posting, Todd - it is indeed a great wine - for reasons that I cannot understand, Couly-Dutheil have been selling the 89 once a year, for the last four, at 25€ a bottle on a discount internet site. Obviously I’ve taken advantage of their generosity!
Thanks for reading all and for sharing your TN’s. These are wines I wish I had been cellaring 2 decades ago. I think they offer great complexity, savoriness, balance, and in general, happiness. I feel fortunate that, at least for now, one can still find the likes of this wine or older Olga Raffault at very fair prices.
Julian, Interpol has been alerted; at 25E that is at minimum misdemeanor theft.
Thanks again,