WHATCOM HOSPICE HOUSE CHARITY WINE DINNER - Parkhurst Neighborhood, Bellingham, WA (10/21/2018)
Our second such wine dinner we’ve hosted in several months, the theme was classic pairings. Champagne and caviar; Muscadet and oysters; Sauternes and foie gras; Nebbiolo and truffles; Cabernet and steak; and Port with Stilton cheese.
Caviar and Champagne
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2006 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne - France, Champagne
Stunning density, purity and especially texture. We paired this with Kumamoto and Olympia oysters, and Bulgarian farmed sturgeon caviar. Vivacious lemon and orange, brioche and cream, but it’s the texture, minerals and balance that keep me coming back to this one. I’m trying to let my bottles mature a decade, but each taste further impairs my resolve. -
NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
This is my “Old Faithful” of Grandes Marques Rosé, and it drank beautifully tonight. It’s better as it warms and breathes a little. A nice fine bead, strawberry and tart orange flavor; a distinguished wine. Tough luck following the '06 Comte, but it stood its ground.
Oysters and Muscadet
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2012 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
This is proof world class wine can be modestly priced. Its mineral salinity and citrus fruit paired perfectly with Kumamoto and Olympia oysters, fresh grated horseradish, and a cucumber/shallot mignonette. Bone dry, crisp; an annual case purchase.
Seared Foie Gras and Sauternes
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2001 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
I hadn’t anticipated how good this would be. Paired first with seared foie gras and later with dessert (Pure Bliss salted caramel cake). Intoxicating nose of honey, ripe apricot, pineapple; botrytis. Dense, nice balance of sweetness and acidity. Both rich and elegant. Spectacular sauternes, and sadly my only bottle.
Truffles and Nebbiolo
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1967 Cantina Terre Del Barolo Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This bottle over performed. Stood up for three months, then decanted for eight hours. Medium to light copper colored, but still in possession of sweet fruit. Mostly tertiary at this point, the earthy mushroom flavors paired perfectly with Inaudi Tagliolini with truffle butter and fresh white Alba truffle. In my experience, the summer of love wasn’t a good vintage in most regions, but Piedmont held its own. I’ll consume my remaining bottles within five years or so.
Steak and Cabernet
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1994 Fisher Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wedding Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County
Fantastic. I had purchased this from an auction house, and they had lost it in their warehouse for a few years. I’m glad they found and shipped it. This was a revelatory wine for me, nudging me west from my francophile palate. Perfectly balanced, I think we caught this at the apogee of its drinking window. Equal measures of cassis, mushroom, cedar, forest floor and leather. Paired perfectly with seared Flannery NY Strip cubes with horseradish aioli and caramelized cocktail onion -
2012 Greer Cabernet Sauvignon Greer Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
If I ever had doubts about the effectiveness of decanting young wines, this bottle put them to rest. Upon opening, I was surprised by its austerity. When served after an eight hour decant, it was stunning. Not an overly ripe Napa cult wine, it was big but graceful, and a magnificent bottle. Black raspberry and cassis, with spice and mineral; perfectly balanced fruit, tannins, and acid cut. Also served with the Flannery NY Strip cubes with horseradish aioli and caramelized onion.
Stilton and Port
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1994 Warre Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
This is not showing any age; it tastes like a current release VP. Primary dark fruit, chocolate, sweet and savory spice. Beautifully balanced, medium density for a VP. I loved this wine, and the pairing with a nice artisanal Stilton cheese was stunning. Drink now, or hold until your great-grandkids are ready to drink it. -
NV Camille Savès Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé Bouzy - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
I didn’t get to taste this bottle, opened late in the dinner. Based on my previous and recent bottles, and according to those that partook tonight, it was beautiful. I’m glad I refilled when it was recently re-offered.
Thanks to Mary and John, Patty and Frank, Skip and Katie, Scott and Mackenzie for making it such a fun evening. Thanks to Maya and Eric for helping prepare and clean. Thanks to all for the generous contributions to a worthy charity.
This tasting confirmed that wine is made for food, and that great food is better with the right wine.