TNs-Loren's 60th b-day in Cleveland

I met back up with Tran, Jay Shampur, Berto and Nick Christie as we joined many of the Cleveland posse to celebrate Loren Sonkin’s 60th birthday. I spent lots and lots of time catching up with many friends here and was very honoured to be invited, and glad to be able to make it. Before arriving, I spent the afternoon of the day before visiting Nola Palomar. We had a wonderful visit together and I was really happy to be able to see her. We tried her 2012 Veleta Chard which probably only has a year or two left but drank well out of the glass and got better with a little bit of air, showing a balanced mature Chard. I also opened a 2014 Schloss Lieser Thomas Haag Ries which was a lovely and sprightly example of German Ries and drank very prettily. Nola was very generous to press upon me a number of bottles to take to Loren’s party, which I did.

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1958 Boal Madeira

I think this was the only birth-year wine available for actual consumption and I got to it late. My quick sip still showed a lively character with raisin and maple syrup. It was quite nice.

1982 Chateau Leoville Las Cases

I tried this right off the cork pop and it has a currant-filled nose and mouth with good grip. It did need air and, a quick sip a couple hours later, showed it was rounding into classic and streamlined form. Do give these air if you have 'em.

1982 Chateau Sociando-Mallet

From double-mag, I think, in a decanter for about an hour. Lovely cocoa-tinged berry fruit in the sniffer. Sedate and composed, I really enjoyed the form and carry here with berry, currant, a touch of graphite and some earth. I think my favourite of the day.

2008 Jayer-Gilles Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits

This was my contribution. Starts with mid-toned red cherry and berry fruit wafting up the glass. This is definitely a 2008, with the raciness of that vintage very apparent, but it has an underlying suave and classy element too. Spicy currant and plenty of acid, I liked this a lot.

2012 Thierry & Pascal Matrot Meursault Blagny

I laughed a bit because this was the only other Burgundy at the table Almond and some nutmeg present themselves aromatically. Tangy, with lemon zest, some unripe apple, a bit curt on the finish. Overall, this is solid white Burg, but also less memorable than many others I’ve had. That could be Blagny in play—a plot I’ve never really taken to.

1993 Anderson Conn Valley Cab

Baked aniseed, a li’l charcoal mix with cranberry and a touch of dill. Tasty, long and still having fairly ripe plum and boysenberry. Not heavy at all, this is in a good place, especially for a vintage without much heraldry.

2011 Dehlinger Goldridge Syrah

Nose and mouth show brambles and some black fruit. To use one of Loren’s favourites, I think others enjoyed this much more than I. I found it a trifle boring.

2004 Saxum Bone Rock Syrah

Naturally, since it’s Loren’s party, Saxum will be in evidence This is the one I chose to try. And 15 or so years out, this still has a high-toned nose with some motor oil mixing into black plum. To taste, it’s settled into what it is, but power is still there with cassis and plum. Still, I get the feeling of some missed potential here.

2017 Domaine de la Mordoree Reine de Bois Rose

I think others liked this more than me as well, though I’m always happy to try a Reine de Bois. This has hidden strawberry in the nuzzie and on the palate is light but with a tangy undertone, definite rhubarb here. I sort of wonder whether a year’s leave will improve it—I do get the sense that there was more to be discovered.

2016 Rivers-Marie Sonoma Coast Chard

Tropical and honeycomb nose translates to a zingy mouth with lime and quince. Just a little salt shake at the end, this is a bit big right now but should settle into its bones with another year. Well-made.

1995 Kathryn Kennedy Lateral Red

Cinnamon twist to red fruit in the bouquet. This remains very red-fruited on the tongue, but is shrill and jumpy yet. I wonder if there was something off with this bottle.

2015 Andremily #4 Red

Lots of plum to scent here. Taste is big and rich and then doubles down on that. Purple fruit for sure, a bit candied, but it fits and I don’t get any alcoholic sense at all—it’s just a big and richly styled wine.

I did taste a 99 Coutet (I think that was the year) out of full, which although not corked, we all agreed there was something wrong…possibly VA.

2005 Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz

Still a bit of eucalypt in the aroma, it has some nasal presence. Le gout, it has some ruggedness and also some meat to its bones. A decently big glass of Shiraz/syrah

Again, the highlight was the wonderful camaraderie that permeated every conversation. I have to also mention that the food, both catered and contributed, was fan-tastic.

Salud Loren!

Mike

Right. So here’s what REALLY happened. A couple of years back, Loren and his wife Jane finally came up to Toronto for Mr. Grammer’s last major life wine event, WineFest IV, where I first had the pleasure of meeting them after Michael had tried to get them up to the previous events. And so the gracious hospitality was returned and the Torontonians were extended an invitation through Michael to Loren’s next major life wine event, his 60th birthday. His friends, family, friends and neighbors all gathered at the Landerwood Swim Club right across from his house in the great state of Ohio. Humberto, Nick, Jay and I drove in from Saegertown, PA while Mike made his way in from nearby Dayton.

Wines were plentiful as were the generous food contributions from everyone. We were situated in the outdoor tented roof deck beside the pool. A nice touch was that the tables were decorated with bottles from 1958, Loren’s birth year. The center table held all the wine contributions. As Loren is a red fan, contribs leaned heavily towards reds but there was a good deal of variation. I actually didn’t get to all the wines as I was having such a good time talking to people that at times I forgot to actually get some.
Nevertheless, I think I did a good job getting to quite a number of them. Let’s get to the bottles:

THE WHITES:

BARON FUENTE NV GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE – Fresh and zesty lemon aromas and flavors along with green apple and barely a hint of biscuity lees. Almost like a dry lemonade. Clean and refreshing. It’s 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot but it drinks more like a Blanc de Blancs.

OLIVEIRAS 1958 RESERVA BOAL MADEIRA – A birthday wine for Loren, I wasted absolutely no time getting to this when I saw it on the table as I rightly suspected it would be gone very soon. Rich full body, intense passion fruit and lemon flavors are underscored by a mix of salinity, high acidity and deep rancio burnt sugar toffee and caramel flavors. Supremely complex sweet wine. Surreal to drink something that existed before I did and a privilege to taste.

KEUKA LAKE VINEYARDS 2015 DRY RIESLING – This Finger Lakes Riesling is very dry and Alsacian in style with intense lemon-lime flavors, high acidity and a fair amount of grip. Decent but lacks a bit of power next to a Niagara Riesling.

MARTIN CODAX 2016 ALBARINO – Surprised to see this here. Light bodied, crisp, salinity underscores tropical quince, tangerine and kiwi flavors. Very floral and salty aromas.

DOMAINE DE LA MORDOREE 2017 TAVEL ROSE – Another suprise. Ruby red in color. Ripe watermelon and strawberry flavors, a touch candied, lacquered mouthfeel, and ends with dry tannins. Almost like a Jolly Rancher watermelon candy without the actual sugar sweetness. This seals it, I’m a Tavel Rosé fan. There goes my manhood. Well, not all of it seeing as how Tavel is really more ruby red than actual pink. I wouldn’t be caught dead drinking a pink wine not from Domaine Ott.

THIERRY ET PASCALE MATROT 2012 MEURSAULT BLAGNY 1ER CRU – Light bodied, very bright lemon and green apple flavor with a touch of lees. Refreshing.

RIVERS-MARIE 2016 SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY – A delicious Chardonnay with a medium body, rich baked apple and cream flavors with a touch of biscuit lees. More intense than the Meursault but not Cali overoaked. My white WOTN.

DOMAINE DE LA PEPIERE 2010 MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE – Light body with weak watery nose. A little oaky and light on the Melon de Bourgogne musk fruit flavor. a bit disappointing for me.

Time for a lunch break. As you can see there was a ton of food: salads, lasagna, mashed potatoes, pizzas, cheeses and a sweet table.

Wow, that was a great tour of action.

Thanks for that, it sounds lovely.

Still more to come, I am writing up the reds and the sweets.

Double mag of Sociando! Paging Bobby A.

TH****E REDS

CHATEAU SOCIANDO-MALLET 1982 HAUT-MEDOC – Light-bodied and almost watery, all the tannin has precipitated out and it has that tell-tale brick ruby color indicating it’s a long-aged Bordeaux. Unfortunately, all of the fruit has precipitated out of it as well, leaving only mushrooms and earth on the palate. As a wine, it is a privilege and an experience to try if not necessarily an enjoyment.

CHATEAU DE LA TOUR RESERVE DU CHATEAU 2000 BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR – In contrast, this Bordeaux had a smooth body with roasted coffe and red berry fruit flavors in perfect harmony. My actual note on my phone beside it is “near perfect.”

CARLISLE 2014 NAPA VALLEY PETITE SIRAH PALISADES VINEYARD – Deep ruby in the glass, rich red plum fruit, but also very high in tannins. Needs time to precipitate those out.

FLORA SPRINGS 20TH ANNIVERSARY 1997 NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON – Beautiful lavender nose, light body which pleasantly surprised me, black raspberry flavor and a bit of dusty tannins. This drank more like a Pinot Noir than a Cab Sauv. Great surprise.

SAXUM 2003 BONE ROCK SYRAH – A very light and girly wine perfect for Burgundy Pinot lovers. Jay Hack would spit this out. Just kidding. This is HUGE with a ton of smokey plum fruit and a touch of black pepper. Overwhelming to the food but man was this fun to drink. I believe there was an 04 as well but I didn’t get to it.

CHATEAU TROPLONG MONDOT 1995 SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU – Another intellectual exercise of a wine that leaned towards earth and mushroom. However, you can also see that it has a bright ruby color still and it had a clean medium body so it was more enjoyable than the Sociando-Mallet but I was expecting it to be more liek the De La Tour.

SEAN THACKERY 2009 ORION ST. HELENA RED – Nose is more like that of a Port than a dry table wine. This has Saxum level red fruit and tannin. Big and delicious. Beware Burgundy lovers.

SONKIN CELLARS 2015 PERSONA MENDOCINO COUNTY SYRAH – Hmmm. Sounds familiar but I can’t quite place the name. Of course front and center was a huge Double Magnum of the birthday boy’s namesake wine. Sour cherries, high acidity, black pepper, and only youthful strong tannins prevent me from outright guzzling my glass down. Drinks more like a French or Niagara Syrah than a Cali. An achievement.

LINGUA FRANCA 2015 TONGUE 'N CHEEK PINOT NOIR – The only Pinot of the day was saline and redolent with sour cherry and green pepper flavors. Opened too young.

VELETA 2010 TEMPRANILLO RESERVA – This delicious wine was one of two gifted to the event by Nola Palomar from her and her late husband Juan’s winery. Sorry she couldn’t be there with us. Thinking of you. This was delicious, a Bordeaux like intensity with rich black currant flavor and strong tannins. Obviously needs time as it still quite young but packs a punch and huge potential.

VELETA 2010 NOLADOS – Blend of 40% Cab. Sauvignon, 40% Cab. Franc and 20% Tempranillo. More saline and crisper than the Tempranillo with higher acidity. Currant and plum flavor. Much lighter bodied than you would think given the 15% ABV.

TURLEY 2015 NAPA VALLEY PETITE SYRAH – Similar to the Carlisle, this has rich fruit to it but also rich tannin and I’d say is quite a bit oakier on the finish than the Carlisle. Needles to say, also needs time to mellow out.

ATLAS PEAK 2009 CABERNET SAUVIGNON – A surprising amount of salinity on my tongue with this wine that overwhelms the fruit. Maybe my palate was fatigued at this point but I wasn’t detecting any other notes. Just in case it was me and not the wine, no real note given here. Hope others enjoyed it more.

THE SWEETS

And finally to the sweet wines to end the day off with. I already posted on the 1958 Madeira which I got to earlier. Here are the others:

CHATEAU RICHARD 1995 COUP DE COEUR SAUSSIGNAC – I’d never heard of Saussignac wine before and neither had anyone else I spoke to. However, as my rep among Berserkers preceded me and word got around of my sweet tooth, everybody told me to try this. I was not disappointed. The Net says it is a small AOC designation similar to Monbazillac. And indeed it is very similar to a Sauternes. Rich golden brown but still translucent color. Loads of tropical dried fruit and butterscotch caramel. A little candied on the palate. Great longevity and long finish. Perhaps not quite up there with similarly aged Sauternes but very respectable.

RUFFINO 1958 SALENTO ROSSO VINO LIQUOROSO – Another birth year wine
Not the 1945 I thought it was. Dark charcoal in the glass, almost completely black. Obviously maderized but amazing still drinkable thanks to a full body, deep tropical fruit flavor, the expected rancio burnt sugar and toffee flavors, and some black pepper spice. Incredible once in a lifetime wine experience. If I am being objective, like the 1982 Haut-Medoc, not necessarily a wine for enjoyment but more for the sheer history of having it.

CHATEAU COUTET 1999 SAUTERNES - BARSAC – And the last wine of the day was this still young Coutet. Burnished gold in the glass just starting to lose translucency. Rich roasted pineapple and creme brulée flavors. Nice way to end the festivities.

It was great meeting the group. I can see why Mike has such affection for the Cleveland group. He always speaks highly of this gang and the Atlanta group and now I see why. Thank you to Loren, his wife Jane and all their friends, family and neighbors for the generous food and wine contributions and the conversation. It was a pleasure meeting everyone. Hope to see you all again in the future.

Thanks for telling us what really happened, Tran

that said, I’m impressed at how many wines you were able to get to. I didn’t re-taste the 14 Carlisle Palisades Petite (I was surprised that it was the only Carlisle on the table), which I had opened for my friends Dave and Andrea the night before—at that time it was drinking big but well. I also tried Nola’s Tempranillo at Dave & Andrea’s, which has some Graciano in it, and it was excellent.

Okay, not that’s more like it! Mike’s “raisins and maple syrup” doesn’t cut it…perhaps he simply doesn’t like Madeira?!

A great party for an awesome guy!
Tran, you are fortunate that you did not get to the 04 Saxum. 04 Saxums were infamous for being spritzy at times. This one was. Loren tried to Mollydooker shake it, but Im not sure that it improved a ton. Bummer, that was my last one.

Thanks for the notes Mike and Tran. The dessert wine was a 1958 (not 1945) Salento and one of my birth year stash. Did you notice it was screw capped? Metal on glass. I will post my impressions shortly.

Normally at these events, I camp out near the wine table with notebook and spit cup in hand and start tasting. I had gotten no further than the second wine when I was told that was not acceptable. I need to enjoy myself (I thought I was). So, I put them away and started drinking eating and talking with our guests. That was quite fun too! It was an honor to have Berto and also Mike and the Toronto gang down for the party. Also lots of wine geek and non wine geek friends. I didn’t get to a lot of the wines that day. Some I finally got to over the next few days and some I never did or it was too late. That’s ok. I consider myself very lucky to be able to share a milestone birthday with friends and family. There was only one corked bottle and I don’t remember what it was. Fwiw, here are my impressions of the wines.


NV Baron-Fuente Esprit Grand Cru Champagne – A nice starter. Nothing profound here but not expensive either. Nice enough acidity. Good fruit.

White:

2016 Martin Codax Albarino – Didn’t get to try.

2015 Keuka Lake Vineyards Dry Riesling Falling Man Vyd. – This is quite nice. Those little lemon candies coated with sugar that come in a tin. Tart lemons. Not sweet. Complex.

2012 Matrot Meursault Blagny 1er cru – Didn’t get to try.

2016 Rivers Marie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast – Delicious. Lemon and Vanilla. Oak but deftly used. Long finish. Great but young.

2010 Peppiere Muscadet Svre et Main Sur Lie – From Magnum. Drinking well. This is a $25 Magnum. Great value. Nothing profound but nice minerality. A bit of fruit. Needs some food.

Rose:
2017 Domaine de la Mordoree Rose – Didn’t get to try.

Reds:
2011 Dehlinger Syrah Goldridge – Lots of boysenberries. Ready to drink. Nice depth and complexity.

2009 Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon – From Magnum. Very nice. Varietally correct. Good depth and complexity. Not amazing but very good.

2014 Domaine de Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape – Not unlike the 2008. Weak for Pegau but still very nice. Drink now. Not as ripe fruit but drinking fine enough.

2015 Lingua Franca Tongue’n Cheek Pinot Noir – Did not try.

2000 Chateau de la Tour Bordeaux Superior – From Magnum. In a good place. Drinking well right now. Nice layers of red fruit with earth/funk.

1997 Flora Springs 20th Anniversary Cabernet Sauvignon – From Magnum. Drinking very well. Certainly seems at or maybe just past peak. Ripe fruit but lots of tertiary notes too.

2014 K Syrah Powerline Estate Syrah – Wonderful bottle of Syrah. Drinking young but great. No hurry here.

2006 Agharta Black label – From Magnum. Wow. I did not like this on release but every time I try it, it get’s better. Great texture. Fresh and vibrant. Complex. Great wine.

2013 Cayuse Vineyards, Wallah Wallah Syrah Special – From Magnum. Drinking great right now. Cooler climate in profile. Young but intense.

2013 No Girls Syrah La Paciencia Vineyard – Young but concentrated. Once it opened it has real depth and complexity. Delicious too. Needs five years.

2010 Bedrock Hudson Vineyard North. “Pleine de Chene” Syrah – Did not try.

2010 Veleta Tempranillo Reserve – Always a favorite value wine. Thanks to Nola for sending these up. Bittersweet though remembering Juan. RIP.

2014 Carlisle Petite Sirah Palisades vineyard – Tight but tasty. Took a couple of days to really open. This is great now but will get better.

2005 Lenotti Amarone Classico – In a great spot right now. Dry but slightly raisined. Nice acidity. Worked better with food (duh!)

1982 Sociando Mallet – For those who like older Bordeaux, this was a hit. For others, not so much. Mostly tertiary notes but some fruit left. Leather and tobacco is nice. Layered. Certainly alive although probably a bit past prime, especially as it sat in a decanter.

1982 Leoville Las Cases – This took some time to open. In fact, this was tight on opening. Eventually, it was gorgeous and as can be imagined, drunk up quickly. Quite a treat though and thanks to Adam B for saving me the last sip!

1995 Chateau Troplong Mondot – Didn’t get to try.

2007 Saxum James Berry Vineyard – From Magnum. Stunning wine. I saved a glass in a jar and it was better on day 2. This may be my all time favorite wine (nudging past the 1989 La Mission or 1989 Haut Brion). Amazing texture. Youthful yet deep and complex. Seamless. 100 points every time I try it.

2009 Sean Thackrey Orion – From Magnum. Great wine. Still young. Lots of complexity. Delicious. Right there but will get better. Great purple fruits.

2015 SonkinCellars Persona – From a 3L Bottle. This was fun. No comments but every one either enjoyed it or had the manners not to say so.

1995 Kathry Kennedy Lateral – Nice aged Cal Cab. Drinks like a Bordeaux at this point. Doing just fine.

2010 Quintessa Cabernet Sauvignon – From Magnum. Drinking well. Nice depth. Pretty classic for this winery.

2010 Veleta Nolados – my favorite in the Veleta lineup. Always a great value. This is delicious, food friendly and an excellent wine.

2010 Veleta Cabernet Sauvignon – Needs some time still but drinking well with air. Newer world in profile but should age just fine.

2009 Jaffurs Syrah Larner vineyard – From Magnum. Great bottle. Delicious. Complex. Still young but opens quickly. Light tannins. Drank the last glass a week later and still fresh.

2015 Piatelli Malbec Reserve – Nice wine. Lots of plums. Full bodied and easy drinking.

2015 Concannon Petite Syrah limited Release Central Coast – From Magnum. This is supposed to be a special release and not the basic wine. Not sure I noticed that but I always liked the basic wine. This was young and tight but very good as well.

2014 Firriato Le Sabbie Dell’Etna – Didn’t get to try.

2003 Saxum Bone Rock – Drinking great right now. From the early days. The fruit is ripe and plentiful but different than today’s Saxum wines. Still has a nice lightness to it. No hurry based on this bottle.

2004 Saxum Bone Rock – Ha. Still has spritz on it. Not sure it affects the flavor but probably a bit. Gave it the Mollydooker shake and that helped a bit.

2015 Andremily #4 Syrah – From Magnum. Very tight. This took a while to finally open. After a week it was still tight. Tasty though. Hold.

2015 Turley Petite Syrah Turley Estate – Very tight. Lots of fruit but took some coaxing. Needs time.

2010 Chateau Faugeres Bordeaux – Drinking surprisingly open. Lots of fruit with some tannins. Will get better but nice now.

2005 Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz Barossa – Really in a great place. One of the WOTN. Great fruit. Not over the top. Complex. Delicious.

Dessert:

1958 Ruffino Salento liquoroso – Birth year wine. First, this is screw capped in 1958. Metal on glass. Very cool. It is a fortified wine. Drinks like a liquefied tootsie-rol®…It is delicious, fresh, and complex. I don’t know much about it. The bottle looked cheap and gone. It was hard to get people to try it but ended up as a WOTN or close to it for everyone who did!

1999 Chateau Coutet – This was controversial. Some liked it others did not. Slightly sweet. Some volatile acidity. It got worse with air and those who tried it earlier seemed to like it better.

1995 Chateau Richard Coup de Coeur Saussignac – This was cool. Not a wine I am familiar with but drank wonderfully. Like a Barsac. Good acidity. Oranges, apricots and honey. Lightly sweet. A nice surprise.

1958 D’Oliveras Bual Reserva Madeira – This had been opened for a couple of weeks but was even better. Oranges and caramel. Deep and complex.

Thanks to all who brought wine and those who helped drink them. My apologies to those who brought wine to share and I didn’t get to try it or worse, even see the bottle. Hopefully there will be more bottles to share in the future.

Awesome celebration! Happy (belated) birthday, Loren!! Way to do it up in stile.