I met back up with Tran, Jay Shampur, Berto and Nick Christie as we joined many of the Cleveland posse to celebrate Loren Sonkin’s 60th birthday. I spent lots and lots of time catching up with many friends here and was very honoured to be invited, and glad to be able to make it. Before arriving, I spent the afternoon of the day before visiting Nola Palomar. We had a wonderful visit together and I was really happy to be able to see her. We tried her 2012 Veleta Chard which probably only has a year or two left but drank well out of the glass and got better with a little bit of air, showing a balanced mature Chard. I also opened a 2014 Schloss Lieser Thomas Haag Ries which was a lovely and sprightly example of German Ries and drank very prettily. Nola was very generous to press upon me a number of bottles to take to Loren’s party, which I did.
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1958 Boal Madeira
I think this was the only birth-year wine available for actual consumption and I got to it late. My quick sip still showed a lively character with raisin and maple syrup. It was quite nice.
1982 Chateau Leoville Las Cases
I tried this right off the cork pop and it has a currant-filled nose and mouth with good grip. It did need air and, a quick sip a couple hours later, showed it was rounding into classic and streamlined form. Do give these air if you have 'em.
1982 Chateau Sociando-Mallet
From double-mag, I think, in a decanter for about an hour. Lovely cocoa-tinged berry fruit in the sniffer. Sedate and composed, I really enjoyed the form and carry here with berry, currant, a touch of graphite and some earth. I think my favourite of the day.
2008 Jayer-Gilles Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits
This was my contribution. Starts with mid-toned red cherry and berry fruit wafting up the glass. This is definitely a 2008, with the raciness of that vintage very apparent, but it has an underlying suave and classy element too. Spicy currant and plenty of acid, I liked this a lot.
2012 Thierry & Pascal Matrot Meursault Blagny
I laughed a bit because this was the only other Burgundy at the table Almond and some nutmeg present themselves aromatically. Tangy, with lemon zest, some unripe apple, a bit curt on the finish. Overall, this is solid white Burg, but also less memorable than many others I’ve had. That could be Blagny in play—a plot I’ve never really taken to.
1993 Anderson Conn Valley Cab
Baked aniseed, a li’l charcoal mix with cranberry and a touch of dill. Tasty, long and still having fairly ripe plum and boysenberry. Not heavy at all, this is in a good place, especially for a vintage without much heraldry.
2011 Dehlinger Goldridge Syrah
Nose and mouth show brambles and some black fruit. To use one of Loren’s favourites, I think others enjoyed this much more than I. I found it a trifle boring.
2004 Saxum Bone Rock Syrah
Naturally, since it’s Loren’s party, Saxum will be in evidence This is the one I chose to try. And 15 or so years out, this still has a high-toned nose with some motor oil mixing into black plum. To taste, it’s settled into what it is, but power is still there with cassis and plum. Still, I get the feeling of some missed potential here.
2017 Domaine de la Mordoree Reine de Bois Rose
I think others liked this more than me as well, though I’m always happy to try a Reine de Bois. This has hidden strawberry in the nuzzie and on the palate is light but with a tangy undertone, definite rhubarb here. I sort of wonder whether a year’s leave will improve it—I do get the sense that there was more to be discovered.
2016 Rivers-Marie Sonoma Coast Chard
Tropical and honeycomb nose translates to a zingy mouth with lime and quince. Just a little salt shake at the end, this is a bit big right now but should settle into its bones with another year. Well-made.
1995 Kathryn Kennedy Lateral Red
Cinnamon twist to red fruit in the bouquet. This remains very red-fruited on the tongue, but is shrill and jumpy yet. I wonder if there was something off with this bottle.
2015 Andremily #4 Red
Lots of plum to scent here. Taste is big and rich and then doubles down on that. Purple fruit for sure, a bit candied, but it fits and I don’t get any alcoholic sense at all—it’s just a big and richly styled wine.
I did taste a 99 Coutet (I think that was the year) out of full, which although not corked, we all agreed there was something wrong…possibly VA.
2005 Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz
Still a bit of eucalypt in the aroma, it has some nasal presence. Le gout, it has some ruggedness and also some meat to its bones. A decently big glass of Shiraz/syrah
Again, the highlight was the wonderful camaraderie that permeated every conversation. I have to also mention that the food, both catered and contributed, was fan-tastic.
Salud Loren!
Mike