2018 Visit to Piemonte, Burgundy and Condrieu

A group of us recently had a wine trip to Piemonte, Burgundy and Condrieu. As time allows, I’ll post notes and photos here …

We began in Turin …

GAJAS AT TRE GALLI, TORINO - Ristorante Tre Galli, Turin, Italy

I have previously dined at Tre Galli and was impressed by the deep wine list (one of the best in all of Italy). However, on this visit, I thought that the food was particularly good, a great accompaniment to the two Gajas, drunk side-by-side …

  • 1993 Gaja Barolo Sperss - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Popped and poured but it could have used an earlier decant. Impenetrable dark colour. Also black fruited and deep on bouquet, showing dark cherries, blackberries, tar, peaty black soil and liquorice aromas, with a little umami, soy development. In the mouth, deep, powerful and concentrated. It seemed to become more, not less, structured with time in the glass. At 26 years of age, drinking fairly young and primary. A meaty texture with those dark berries and tar and sandy tannins. Quite tannic with fierce acidity. Bone dry and savoury, with truffle, porcini and umami complexity. Detailed and layered. It was a sensational food match with both my Angolotti and Fasone Rump with Ash dishes. Clearly the better wine than the Barbaresco. Great now but this Sperss has years ahead of it.
  • 1998 Gaja Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Popped and poured but it could have used an earlier decant. Lighter coloured with a rusty tinge at the rim. A prettier nose. More perfumed with roses and violets and more red fruit than black on bouquet. Also a little dry clay and a touch of creosote. On palate, the impression of being a ‘smaller’ wine than the Sperss, however it was still large scaled, dense and structured with serious concentration. Drinking darker fruited than the bouquet suggested, with tar, brushwood, rusty metal, espresso and balsamico notes. As Andrew said, when paired with the Angolotti, the Barbaresco had “lost a little fruit”, although it paired better with the Fasone Rump dish. There for drinking in the next 10 years.
  • 2006 Luigi Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    We felt like having another wine and hoped that the excellent vineyard here might put this wine in the same quality league as the Gajas … It did not but the Oddero is still a decent Barolo that probably needs 5+ years more to show its best … Bright red/purple colour. Lifted violets, dark cherries, minerals and dark spices on the bouquet. On entry to the palate, compared with the bone dry Gajas, the impression of some fruit sweetness. Serralunga structure and precision met 2006 austerity to provide quite a stern, linear, albeit correct Barolo. Blackberries and dark cherries, new leather, minerals and some tar. Not the balance or complexity of the Gajas, nonetheless a good, traditional Barolo.

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LONG SUNDAY LUNCH ON THE LANGHE

Our good friend, Jeffrey Chilcott of Marchesi di Grésy, organised a long Sunday lunch for us at a traditional Piemontese restaurant. We were joined by the charming and very knowledgeable wine writer Michaela Morris and Luca of Giacomo Fenocchio. It was great to get the opportunity to try Luca’s couple of older Fenocchios, because I had not have much experience with the well regarded label.

Here are some highlights of the wines we drank (wines served blind unless indicated otherwise):

  • 2015 Tzora Vineyards Judean Hills - Israel, Judean Hills
    Luca served this wine from his homeland blind. Most picked the wine as a Chardonnay but it was difficult to place or categorise. Clean and pure with a little minerality. The Tzora was viscous and tactile with good weight and power. It was citric but more grapefruit than lemon with pears and peaches and a touch of more exotic fruits (perhaps guava?). It showed good acidity, particularly for a wine from such a warm climate. There was also a little toasty oak (Luca said it was 75% in barrel, but 45% large format). Luca noted the 10% Sauvignon Blanc, which adds a little complexity to the wine. Very good.
  • 2015 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 3 - New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago
    I am a big fan of this wine. For me, it competes with the 2012 Block 3 to be the best Central Otago Pinot Noir produced this decade. I served it blind. An exuberant bouquet of a pot-pourri of red and black cherries and berries with lifted florals and spices. A great nose. “Very Fourrier-like”, observed Michaela. On palate, Jeffrey noted “cherries and watermelon”, with someone saying it was “candied, but in a good way”. Jeffrey also mentioned the “good substance and length” and the “super balance” of this Felton Road. Delicious and impressive now, it’ll develop more nuance and complexity with another 5+ years.
  • 2015 Schubert Pinot Noir Marion’s Vineyard - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa
    I paired the Felton Road with the Schubert to show the difference between Bannockburn, Central Otago and Martinborough Pinot Noir terroir. 2015 was an excellent vintage in Martinborough, as it was in Central. Served blind. People noted the more restrained, earthy, brambly, less fruit forward aromatics of the Schubert, typical of Martinborough. On palate as well, the Schubert showed more evident stuffing and structure than the Felton Road with notes of black cherries and blackberries, soil, underbrush and crushed stones. More of a savoury edge than the Felton Road. Hold for 3+ years.
  • 2003 Neudorf Pinot Noir Moutere - New Zealand, South Island, Nelson, Moutere
    Served blind by Jeffrey. Under screwcap. Youthful colour. A young-seeming Pinot bouquet of dark plums, black spices, liquorice, brushwood and wet iron. On palate, it was a bit of a beast with huge structure and heavy extraction. It had decent freshness but seemed to have lower acidity. I picked it as an Oregon, rather than a New Zealand, Pinot Noir. Black plums, cherries and other fruits, quince paste and sous bois. A very good NZ Pinot Noir, drinking more like a five than a 15 year old.
  • 1994 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Served blind by Luca. Pale red with ochre highlights. An attractive, mellow, fully mature bouquet of fresh and dried red cherries, spices and rusty iron. Almost Pinot-like but with Campari and orange rind. On palate, I was guessing this was a 1990s-era Barolo. A lovely, elegant wine. Fresh with fully resolved tannins. Red cherries, rusty metals, porcini, earth and a touch of citrus. Now at its peak for drinking. My wine of the lunch.
  • 1993 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Served blind by Luca. Lighter ruby with some bricking. The bouquet, despite touches of Campari and orange juice, seemed more youthful than for the other Fenocchio. There was actually some attractive, fresh red fruit, as well as dry brushwood, spices and traces of vanillin oak. On palate, as Jeffrey noted, it had “lots of power and concentration” and was “tannic, quite an edgy wine”. Certainly the Bussia was more powerful and structured than the other Fenocchio or the Cogno. Michaela noted that the wine was “tightening up with time in the glass” and clearly had “a ways to go”. A very impressive traditional Barolo.
  • 1997 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    We brought the 1997 Ravera to compare with the 1997 Elena. Sadly it was badly corked. However, it seemed to have good underlying material.
  • 1997 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barolo Riserva Vigna Elena - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    We served this wine blind. Ruby with orange tinge. Aromatic, showing a lot of evolution with notes of dried herb, tobacco, mushroom, warm earth and tar. As someone said, the overall effect was something like lamb stew. “Round and soft on mid palate”, as Thierry observed. Evolved but elegant. Resolved tannins and integrated fruit and acids. After the reveal there was a discussion about whether the Cogno was too advanced for a 1997. It probably was but I found this a lovely, mellow Barolo to drink now, with a tannin structure I preferred over the 1993 Fenocchio.
  • 1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    We served this wine blind. Rusty colour. A bouquet of citrus rind, tobacco, earth, old leather, dry underbrush and dried red fruits. Someone mentioned the nose reminding them of old chicory coffee. Similar on palate. Evolved and resolved but I thought drinking more like a 1980s than 1970s Nebbiolo. Savoury, earthy with dried fruit and tobacco leaf. Not hugely complex but an honest, satisfying older Nebbiolo.

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A COUPLE OF WINES IN BARBARESCO

  • 2015 La Ca’ Nova Barbaresco Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    After lunch we dropped into the excellent Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco. The Enoteca has the current release of virtually every Barbaresco produced on sale with several to taste. We tried the La Ca’ Nova as we planned to visit there tomorrow … Deep colour. A bouquet of black fruit, liquorice, minerals and black spices. As you would expect from a wine from perhaps the most Barolo-like of all Barbaresco vineyards, and a warm year, a big structured, serious, tannic wine. A lot of generous black fruit, but also mineral with an iron core. Quite taut and closed. I thought I detected a slight alcohol burn on the finish. However, I also thought the Montestefano showed great potential but needed another 5-7+ years in the cellar.
  • 2017 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero
    It was a warm day, so we got a bottle of this Arneis to share at the very good Nonsolovino wine shop in Barbaresco. I like good Arneis, including most recent vintages of Vietti and some previous Bruno Giacosa versions. Here, however, I wasn’t impressed … Pale colour. A typical Arneis bouquet: lemon zest, chalk, cut straw and a touch of lanolin. In the mouth, seemingly lower acid and quite fleshy. Viscous and oily. Pear, lemon, lime and straw. Lacking energy and precision. “The sweetness is not well balanced”, said Thierry. The wine is young, but I’m not sure that a year or two in the cellar will transform this Arneis into something better.

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VISIT TO FLETCHER WINES WITH DAVE FLETCHER - Cantina del Stazione, Barbaresco

Dave Fletcher is an Aussie from Adelaide whose day job is at Cerretto. After hours he runs Fletcher Wines out of the Barbaresco train station that he has renovated. His Cantina del Stazione – winery and cool wine bar - is a fun place to visit. He farms applying organic and bio-dynamic principles and uses older oak for most of his wines. He gave us a quick tasting of some of his recent releases.

  • 2017 Fletcher Langhe Chardonnay C17 - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
    Light colour. Stony and mineral on the nose with some mealy, peach and pear notes. Also, not very citric on the palate. Mineral, nutty and weighty. Bread and orchard fruit flavours. I would have liked a little more acidity and cut.
  • 2017 Fletcher Arcato Vino da Tavola - Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola
    A natural or amber wine. Made from 75% Arneis and 25% Moscato. Fermented with skins and whole bunches. I liked it. A bouquet of mandarin, blanched almonds, baking spices and toffee, with a suggestion of crème brûlée. In the mouth, a full, rich, yeasty, viscous wine with brioche, cashews and almonds, and some citric and orchard fruit. Also, a little savoury nuance. Lower acidity but complex and interesting. Give it two years or so to fully settle.
  • 2017 Fletcher Barbera d’Asti - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d’Asti
    Made with 30% whole bunch, and older barrels. An exuberant nose of milk chocolate, blackberries and red and black cherries, with a lift of kirsch. Fully, ripe, rich dark fruit. Good volume and flow. Lower acidity. Silky with round tannins good mouthfeel. A good Barbera. I’d give it 1-2 years before drinking.
  • 2016 Fletcher Nebbiolo d’Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d’Alba
    A bright, energetic bouquet of red cherries, raspberries, mixed spices and earth. Drinking it, good acidity and focus, weight and drive. Attractive mainly red fruit. Spherical, not rustic tannins. Ready to go now.
  • 2015 Fletcher Barbaresco Recta Pete - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Dave says that this is “the best wine I have ever made” and it was certainly the best wine of the tasting and a clear step up from the Nebbiolo d’Alba. Fruit 100% from Roncaglie. An attractive bouquet of cinnamon and other spices, red currants and red cherries and lifted rose and other floral aromas. In the mouth, seemingly quite accessible already, it’s elegant and fine. Clean and pure. Red cherries, earth and spices on the palate. Refreshing, bright acidity and succulent, fine tannins. Good volume and length. I’d give it 5+ years in the cellar.
  • 2016 Fletcher ‘X16’ Langhe Rosso - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
    The next two wines were Dave’s take on a local Super Tuscan-type cuvée. Thirds of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Nebbiolo. About 25% new oak. A bouquet of cedar, new leather, earth and crème de cassis. On palate, full and broad shouldered. A lot of fruit volume here. Tight and coiled. Cellar for 4-5+ years.
  • 2013 Fletcher ‘X13’ Langhe Rosso - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
    Thirds of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Nebbiolo. About 25% new oak. A more attractive and nuanced bouquet than the 2016. A touch of vanillin oak, followed by dark florals, spices and graphite. Similar on palate to the 2016, but better delineated with superior acidity and complexity. Ideally, hold for another 2+ years.

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2018 VISIT TO PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO WITH ALDO AND DAVID

We began Barbaresco Monday with a visit to Produttori del Barbaresco.

At the tasting we were joined by Wine Berserker D@vid Bu3ker who had come down from Turin for the morning tasting. It was great fun to meet, and taste with, David.

Aldo Vacca began the visit with a brief winery tour. Aldo allowed us a quick tank tasting of the 2017 Pora.

Aldo gave us a brief, potted history of the collective. Produttori del Barbaresco was founded in 1958, in the same year as Terre del Barolo. He said that the early years were difficult in Barbaresco. For example, he mentioned that Sori Tildin had been a wheat field when bought in the 1970s by Angelo Gaja’s father.

Aldo explained that there were three key decisions or design features that ultimately led to Produtorri’s modern day success:

  • The decision to be Nebbiolo (Barbaresco) only. In the beginning, Dolcetto was actually the more valuable grape than Nebbiolo.

  • The requirement that all member farmers must deliver 100% of their Nebbiolo grapes to the collective, to prevent farmers skimming off their best grapes or vintages.

  • The decision to pay for grapes, in the parcels delivered, based on their quality, not just on their quantity.

There are now 54 growers in Produttori del Barbaresco. Today, even beyond wine, Produttori must be one of the most successful cooperatives of any type in the world.

Aldo talked about recent harvests and vintages:

2017: This was a very challenging vintage in Barbaresco. For example, Aldo noted that, two nights of frost killed 50% of the vines in Gaja’s Costa Russi right to their roots. After the frosts came the hail. Three Produttori growers lost 100% of their harvest to hail. The last hail in Ovello was in June and then it was pretty dry, across all Produttori vineyards, until November. Aldo thinks Riservas will “probably” be made for 2017. It is very early, obviously, to assess but he compared the results with 2011s or 2015s, expecting robust, full wines, “not elegant”, as he said.

2016: Riservas will be made. There are good volumes.

2015: Riservas will be made, again there are good volumes.

2014 (and 2013): Riservas were bottled in May, this year. The Riservas will be released in February 2019. There will be reduced quantities for most Cru. 2014, Aldo said, had been a wet season until 12 August, but then largely dry after that. He described the 2014 Cru as much more aromatic and elegant than the very structured, classic, spicy 2013s. He called the 2014s “Burgundian” or a “unique, Pinot-like vintage”. I have tasted a number of the 2013 Cru. Although they had similar (late) harvest dates (8 and 12 October, respectively), and on my previous visit in 2016 tasted fairly similar (as both were from classical, cooler vintages), they have now markedly diverged, each clearly expressing their vintage characters. This tasting cemented my overall preference for the more perfumed, refined 2014s over the earthier, more structured 2013s. Still, I rate the 2013s very highly, ahead of the 2011s or 2009s, and expect the 2013s to be a very long-lived vintage.

During the tasting, Aldo also talked about drinking windows for his Riservas. Generally, his personal drinking window for his Cru, most vintages, is eight to 12 years. For the 2011s, he mentioned, he would recommend finishing them within 15 years of vintage (ie around 2026) because, for this earlier drinking vintage, “20 years may be too much”. Of recent vintages, he specifically noted the 2008 and 2014 Cru as having “the chance to go longer” (than this 20 years period). Aldo rates his 2008 Riservas as his best vintage of the first decade this century.

We tasted three of the 2014 Cru side-by-side. Then Aldo treated us to a deep dive into Ovello, the largest volume producer of the Produttori Cru, following the 2014 with all Riserva vintages back to 2004.

  • 2017 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Tank sample. Small pour. A dark nose of blackcurrants, black cherries and earth. Dense with good weight. Lots of power. Dark fruit. Reasonably elegant and fine however.
  • 2014 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    “Expressive aromatics” said David. I agreed, seeing notes of red and black cherries, violets and other dark florals. On palate, a gorgeous, attractive, elegant Nebbiolo I could drink with dinner tonight, I thought. “Big fruit” said Andrew. Vibrant and energetic. Svelte, spherical tannins. “Almost pinot-like”, said Aldo. Attractive minerality.
  • 2014 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Thierry noted that he “loved the aromatics” here. Earthy with brushwood, bramble, red cherries and raspberries. On palate, savoury and brambly and again clearly Burgundian. “Wow the depth”, said David. Not the normal overt earthiness of a Produttori Ovello. Slightly rustic finish that may settle down with time. My favourite of the three 2014s.
  • 2014 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    As is typical for this most Barolo-like of Barbaresco sites, a precise, mineral bouquet of black currants, black cherries and some lifted dark florals. In the mouth, quite tight and closed, with large scale, but fine grained, tannins. Austere with a steely core. Very mineral with a “slight saltiness” Thierry detected. This Cru will need 8-10 years to fully uncoil, I’d imagine.
  • 2013 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    An attractive, Ovello-typical bouquet. “Earthy, spicy”, said Aldo. I detected underbrush and sottobosco elements with David noting a “cinnamon bark” quality. Seemingly relatively open on the nose. Anything but open on palate. Tight and very structured. Grippy tannins. Powerful. Aldo noted that the “finish is a little more aggressive here due to the clay”. It is more accessible than recent 2013 Asili and Rabajas I have opened. Still it needs 7-10 years cellar time, I think.
  • 2011 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Very different from the 2013. A lovely bouquet of red cherries, redcurrants, dry clay and rose florals. On palate, fairly accessible with attractive red fruit, soil and a touch of secondary, orange rind. Fully ripe, but not overripe, and rich. “Quite youthful with nice tannins”, said Aldo. Svelte and refined with fine grained tannins. Good volume and body. I liked this Ovello very much. Drinking well now, but ideally, hold for 3+ years.
  • 2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    “An early vintage and warm, but with some tannins”, said Aldo. The first Ovello where the colour suggests a little development. A forward wine, potentially for drinking right now. This was my second to favourite Ovello for drinking tonight (after the 2005). A beautiful bouquet, classic Produttori Ovello. Earth, brushwood, cinnamon and plums and other mainly red fruit. On palate, mellow, complex, earthy and spicy with cocoa and red and black cherries. I agreed with Aldo that the 2009 was “right in the zone” but I worried about how quickly it had got there. Aldo’s advice of drinking 2009s in the next 3-5 years seems good.
  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Aldo introduced the 2008 Ovello as “the best Riserva vintage of the last decade, like 2001 a long cellaring vintage”. A bouquet of earth, spices, red cherries and other red and black fruit. “Dried flowers”, said David, which seemed right. On palate, clay, red currants, red cherries and other red fruit, but with a steely core. Very tight and closed. The best wine at the tasting but it needs at least 5-8 more years in the cellar.
  • 2007 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Aldo spoke glowingly of the 2007 vintage. “2007 was a perfect climactic vintage, maybe so perfect it was boring. It allowed a long harvest – 24 days – of homogenous fruit with the same pH, sugar etc every day. It produced refined, polished wines”, he said. A beautiful bouquet of fresh and dried red berries and cherries, cinnamon, smoke and highlights of red rose. In the mouth, much more available than the 2008, yet in a similar direction. Earthy with spices, autumn leaf and fully ripe red currants and red cherries and even some suggestions of strawberry. A lovely wine now that’ll be even better in 3-4 years I’d imagine, but not the long-term cellar proposition of the 2008.
  • 2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    A lovely bouquet. Spicy, red fruited – fresh red currants, red cherries and plums - and floral perfumes. In the mouth, as Aldo said, “more fruit driven than the ‘04”. “Very fleshy”, said Andrew. Plump, generous, ripe and rich but bone dry. Nice acidity to balance the fruit and tannins. Classy, velvety tannins. Drink or hold. My wine of the tasting.
  • 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    An exquisite but very different, “cooler” nose than the 2005. Largely red berries and cherries, spices, citrus, tar and cut, fresh herbs on bouquet. On palate, a classical Barbaresco. “A lot of dry extract but slightly vegetal”, as Aldo noted. Well integrated tannins. Red cherries, red currants, earth and slightly salty minerals. Aldo suggested either drinking the 2004 now or holding for 4-5 years. Very good, not far behind the 2005 in quality, for me.
  • 2015 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Aldo finished up with accessible 2015 Normale. An attractive nose of spices, cherries, soil, rose petals and underbrush, with a touch of tar. In the mouth, savoury and earthy with fresh and dried mainly red berry fruit, brushwood and a little tobacco. Well balanced with decent acidity and integrated, relatively fine tannins. Good ripeness, volume of fruit and concentration. A good vintage for the Normale.
  • 2016 Renato Ratti Dolcetto d’Alba Colombe - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba
    Opposite Produttori, Trattoria Antica Torre Barbaresco is a favourite restaurant for lunch with the local rabbit the signature dish. To accompany the Coniglio we had the Ratti … Deep purple red colour. A bright nose of blackcurrants, black cherries, plums and a touch of balsamic. In the mouth, mainly black fruited with relatively fine grained, silky tannins. Good Dolcetto typicity but a relatively straightforward favour profile. A little below medium bodied. A good lunch wine.

Overall, the tasting was a reflection of what I love so much about Produttori del Barbaresco’s Riservas. They are, of course, one of the great values of the fine wine world. But for me, Produttori’s consistent, traditional, non-interventionist winemaking over the years and its nine different sites means that you can get that Burgundian phenomenon where the imprints of terroir (in this case, Ovello) and vintage are what you can analyse in the glass …

Not everyone sees it that way … Aldo said one of his importers once said “Nine Riservas is interesting, just six too many. Make more Rabaja!”
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LA CA’ NOVA WITH MARCO ROCCA - Barbaresco

When I told a Piemontese friend I was visiting La Ca’ Nova he joked “they are bio-dynamic but they don’t know they are”. Indeed La Ca’ Nova are a small, traditional, family run winery. They have four full-time employees including winemaker Marco Rocca who hosted us.

Marco showed us around his Botte-filled traditional winery.

He then took us out of the back of his winery to see his Montefico and Montestefano vineyard holdings. His Montestefano holding is very steep, up the top, at 270 metres above sea level. The soil is calcareous limestone and sand with the vines usually 40-50 years old. His Montefico vineyard is at similar altitude with south and south-east exposures and marl soil. Vines are typically 30-35 years of age. In total, they have about 14 ha under vines.

Typical times for maceration on skins for Barolos is 20-25 days.

Overall, I was impressed by La Ca’ Nova and their wines. They are an honest, down to earth operation committed to producing quality, classical Nebbiolo.

We tasted three Barbarescos.

  • 2015 La Ca’ Nova Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Good ruby. Expressive florals with soil, leather and “nice spices”, as Andrew said, with a touch of creosote on bouquet. On palate, good intensity and power for this level. Clean, refined and fresh. Red fruited, earthy and leathery with some of those spices on the reasonably long finish. The tannins were fine and a little tactile, but not grippy. Good acidity. Quite a serious, almost a stern Barbaresco. I’d give it 2-3+ years in the cellar.

  • 2015 La Ca’ Nova Barbaresco Vigna Bric Mentina Montefico - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    A big step up on the Normale here. Montefico-typical ethereal perfumes of chalk, graphite minerality, cherries and lifted violets, with again a touch of spice. Surprisingly drinking quite accessibly this young. Intense and precise. Refreshing acidity and chalky tannins. Blackberries, black and red cherries, cedar, earth and graphite. Good volume, concentration and power. A long, mineral finish. Hold for 3-5+ years. An excellent Montefico.
  • 2015 La Ca’ Nova Barbaresco Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Deeper, more intense purple colour than the Montefico. Also a dumber, more earth-bound, darker fruited nose. Aromas of black cherries, blackberries, cedar, wet granite and a touch of menthol. On palate, very structured, dense and closed. Tightly coiled and not giving much. Black cherry and dark plum with graphite, earth, cedar and iron. Huge grip and power. Good focus and precise acidity. It seemed to have all the material needed in the future to be a great Montestefano. I thought that this Cru would peak in 10+ years but Marco suggested it needs only “three or four years” in the cellar.

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SOTTIMANO WITH ELENA SOTTIMANO - Neive, Cuneo, Italy

Thanks to Simon for this visit.

Like La Ca’ Nova, Sottimano is a small family business. We were hosted at this tasting by the vivacious Elena Sottimano. The operation is Elena, her father and brother and three employees.

Sottimano has 14 ha under vines. As with a visit to Produttori, tasting at Sottimano is an opportunity to think about terroir, comparing the Cottà, Currà, Fausoni, Pajoré and Basarin Crus from the Treiso and Neive townships. The fruit in each Cru is typically from 40-65 year old vines.

Elena described Sottimano as “fully organic” since 1975 although they are only now obtaining certification.

Elena said that “every year, every Cru has the same vinification”. We toured the winery and saw that the vinification was mainly in barriques. However, over the years Sottimano has been backing off on the use of new oak in the Cru. For example, Elena said, in 2008 the Cru saw 20-25% new oak. From 2010, the percentage has been reduced to about 10%.

Elena talked about recent harvests and vintages at Sottimano:

  • 2017 was a very difficult vintage with both frost and hail.

  • 2016 is a vintage she sees as a “fantastic vintage” but “needing 10+ years in the cellar” for the Cru. 2016 was a cooler year than 2015 so harvest was later, as it was in 2014.

  • 2015 is “a vintage to drink”. The products of a warmer vintage, Elena compared Sottimano’s 2015 Cru with their 2006s or 2008s. The 2015s had longer macerations than typical. She described the 2015s as “young but approachable”, so we were pleased to be tasting them …

  • 2016 Sottimano Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
    Elena said that the wine was 100% from Basarin fruit from 20-25 year old vines. The vineyard is south facing and the vines on the top of a windy hill. In 2016 there were large diurnal shifts, which Elena sees as a positive for this wine. There was a 20-25 day’s maceration on the skins here. An attractive, spicy nose of red liquorice, red cherries, raspberries and soil with a touch of dark florals. On palate, a nice Langhe Nebbiolo. Largely red fruited with spices and earth. Good weight with a little grip. But elegant with nervous acidity that adds to the interest of the wine. A good entry level wine.
  • 2015 Sottimano Barbaresco Fausoni - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    From a Neive site on sand, soil and clay. Vines 45 years old. This Fausoni saw 30 days maceration on the skins and “old fashioned winemaking”, as Elena described it. A paler colour. Lovely, typical Fausoni herbal and floral aromatics. A fresh and breezy bouquet of mint, balsamico and earth. Also, as Andrew observed, a touch of orange peel. An elegant, crisp, fresh entry to the palate, with that slightly citric inflexion. Fine, clean and pure, but with some grip and chewy tannins on the finish. “Tight and a little closed”, said Elena. Excellent length. Very good.
  • 2015 Sottimano Barbaresco Pajoré - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    For me, a step up from the Fausoni. From a high site (350 metres above sea level) in Treiso on limestone and some clay. Older vines. A bouquet of red cherries, raspberries and other red fruit, spices, liquorice and a “fumé” note Elena referenced (that put me in mind of smoky barbequed game meats). Silky, fine grained tannins in the mouth, elegant and refined but a lot of fruit volume and structure across the mid palate. The serious tannic and acidic structure made me think it’ll improve over the next 6-8 years.
  • 2015 Sottimano Barbaresco Cottá - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    From vines as old as 50-60 years old on limestone with clay. A pot pourri of red and black fruit, including plums, cherries and raspberries, with a touch of blueberries. Also “lifted florals” (as Mark noted) which I saw more as a herbal lift. On palate, there is a lot of fruit volume and weight here, and tons of power. Thierry liked the “nervous quality” of the acids and Andrew pointed to the “sweet tannins”. It seemed like there was a lot of good components in this Cottá, and good potential, just that they’ll need quite a few years for this wine to come together. Hold for at least five years.
  • 2015 Sottimano Barbaresco Basarin - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    A purchase of an additional Basarin vineyard has allowed Sottimano to produce this Barbaresco Cru for the first time in 2015. From a 1 ha vineyard of 40-45 year old vines. The vineyard is very high and steep and full south facing. A nose of red liquorice, spices, red cherries and other red fruit. Fresh but powerful. Good energy and focus. Very fine grained. My favourite of the 2015s.
  • 2008 Sottimano Barbaresco Currá - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Elena had no 2014 Currá to show us as it has been held back longer in bottle, she therefore opened a 2008 Currá. Elena mentioned that the 2008 was 20-25% new oak (as compared with 10% for more recent Cru). A lovely Barolo bouquet of red berries and cherries, soil and soy, a little minty. Pure and mineral on palate but with real power and weight. Red fruited with cocoa powder, warm earth and tartufo nero. Complex, deep and concentrated. A top wine of the day.

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CIGLIUTI WITH CLAUDIA CIGLIUTI - Neive, Cuneo, Italy

Next we visited traditional, high quality Barbaresco house Cigliuti F.lli Azenda Agricola.

Claudia Cigliuti is a fifth-generation Cigliuti family member, now running the house with her sister. Claudia’s father, in the 1960s, improved the quality of his Barbarescos, introducing green harvest and reducing yields. The family has never moved away from traditional winemaking.

Cigliuti has 7.5 ha under vine: 6 ha in Serraboella and 1.5 ha in Bricco di Nieve. These vineyards are on either side of the road outside winery and Claudia took us out for a look at them. Serraboella is south west facing at 350 metres above sea level with calcareous soil and 25-55 year old vines. Bricco di Nieve, that produces the Vie Erte Barbaresco, faces south east at similar height with calcareous and sandy soil and vines aged above 15 years. Élevage is in Slavonian and larger French casks. Typically the Barbarescos have 20 or more day’s maceration on skins.

The winery typically produces 30,000 to 38,000 bottles per annum, Claudia said, noting the “big loss” of grapes in 2017. Claudia said that she really rates her 2016 Barbaresco vintage, preferring her ‘16s to either her ‘15s or ‘17s.

  • 2015 Cigliuti Barbera d’Alba Serraboella - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba
    Claudia said that this Barbera is “from three parcels on the hill, two south-east facing on clay, one south-west on chalky soil”. A nose of blackberries, black cherries, plums and black spices. Rich, plush and chocolatey on palate, but with nice slatey minerality. A classical Barbera. “The fruit concentration matches the acidity well” noted Claudia. She said that the Barbera will age but that she prefers drinking this wine within 2-3 years of vintage.
  • 2015 Cigliuti Barbera d’Alba Campass - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba
    This is a selection from a vineyard with 35 year old vines on clay soil that sees more new oak (about 20% new French barriques Claudia said). A nose of blackcurrants, black plums, dark chocolate and liquorice. Bold, with a touch of lavender and some spicy oak. Drinking more velvety and fine than the Serraboella. Richer, more rounded and complex than the Serraboella. Dark fruited with minerals, cacao and black liquorice. There is a little spicy oak yet to integrate. A high quality Barbera. I’d cellar it for at least a couple of years.
  • 2014 Cigliuti Barbaresco Vie Erte - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    A spicy, light, attractive and elegant bouquet showing rose floral, cherry, tar and dried herb nuances. On palate, the Barbaresco, as would be expected from the vintage, is refined and pure. Red and black fruits, earth, minerals and a herbaceous element (meant as a positive) dominate the flavour profile. Only mid weight, with chalky yet round tannins. A lovely, precise Barbaresco. Give it 3+ years.
  • 2014 Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    A Barbaresco from vines up to 60 years old on chalky soil. Claudia confidently said that this wine would cellar for 40 years. A superb wine with a fine, perfumed nose showing a spectrum of florals and herbs – roses, violets and lavender – spices and minerals. Quite intoxicating. In the mouth, fully ripe yet elegant and silky, it caresses the palate. On entry it seems medium weight – or less – yet it expands across the mid palate, leading to a peacock’s tail of flavour. “Truly an amazing wine”, said Thierry. Still, it’ll improve, I would think, with 5 years in the cellar.
  • 2001 Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    From Magnum. Very generously, Claudia opened this beautiful wine saying “2001 is a classical vintage in Barbaresco too”. Ruby colour with a little ochre at the rim. A beautiful bouquet, multi-layered and complex including notes of dried rose petal, earth, spices, red berries and cherries, porcini and dry brushwood. A profound wine to drink. Power with lightness. Complex and detailed. Savoury, mineral, earthy, spicy, red fruited and floral. At a lovely stage of its development. One of the best wines of the trip.

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Killer notes as usual Howard.

Great stuff Howard.

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

Enjoyable and educational reading. Thanks.

Thanks Howard. I’ve been enjoying your notes on CT.

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Top notch all the way around- love your tasting notes.

Amazing notes and lots of insight. Much appreciated. Keep going.

Guys, you’re welcome …

We finished Barbaresco Monday in a new restaurant (to us) in Monforte d’Alba …

DINNER AT RISTORANTE MODA, MONFORTE D’ALBA

With our first choice restaurant closed, we chanced upon Moda for dinner. It was an inspired choice. The location, in the centre of and high up in Monforte d’Alba, with expansive views, was spectacular and the cuisine excellent.


My 30-egg yolk Tarajin with white Raju of Rabbit entrée and Guinea Fowl stuffed with vegetables and Bra sausage main were as good as any meal I had in Italy on the trip. The waiter said that the 30 egg yokes related to a kilogram of pasta, not my individual portion, although I would not have been at all surprised if he’d said the opposite!

Moda’s wine list was fairly ‘young’. We settled on a pair of traditionally made 2011s, a vintage that is often providing good, fairly early drinking:

  • 2011 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barolo Riserva Vigna Elena - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    An elegant, somewhat Pinot-like bouquet of red cherries, raspberries, spices and dry brushwood with a top note of rose perfume. Almost a sweet-seeming entry to the palate. Succulent, crunchy red cherry and berry fruit. The acids provided good focus and balance with the silky smooth tannins. Complexity was provided by just a touch of dried herb, tobacco, rusty development. “For me, this wine has just the secondary development I want, I don’t want more”, said Thierry. Certainly, it was lovely on the night … Finishing appropriately dry, long and mineral. Sensational with both my Tarajin and Guinea Fowl dishes. I preferred it over the very good Massolino. Notwithstanding its early accessibility, I’d imagine it’d cellar for 20+ years, easily.
  • 2011 Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    A ‘darker’, more closed nose than the Cogno with notes of cherries, plums, minerals and violet florals. Relatively approachable on palate but very tannic. The tannic structure was serious and large scaled however the tannins were spherical, fat and a little softened. Rusty, ferrous metal, earth, barbequed meats, cherries and chalk. Long, finishing dry. A large volume of ripe, rich fruit in good balance with decent, integrated acidity, particularly for a 2011. Someone commented that the Massolino was “more raisiny on the second pour”. While I could see some of that very ripe 2011 character, I didn’t think this character was over-prominent. Give it a minimum of 3-5 more years. A class act.

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Tuesday morning we started our visits in Perno …

VISIT TO CASCINA FONTANA - Perno, near Monforte d’Alba

In 2016 Alessio Cighetti of Vinoteca Centro Storico, Serralunga d’Alba recommended Cascina Fontana as a winery that flies under the radar and is doing great things. Hence our visit when we were next in Piemonte …

Mario Fontana is the winemaker. The winemaking is very traditional. Mario’s wife Luisa was related to Bartolo Mascarello.

They have five full time employees and produce 26-30,000 bottles of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo each year. Their 5 ha of vineyards are in Castiglione Falletto, La Morra and Sinio. Until 2008 the Barolo was only from Castiglione Falletto fruit. Since 2008 fruit from Luisa’s two sites was added. As with Bartolo Mascarello, Cascina Fontana’s Barolo is typically a blend of the best fruit from all of their sites however in 2013 (and possibly in 2015) they have made a special bottling from Castiglione Falletto.

Overall, I thought the wines were solid, honest, traditionally made wines.

Barrel tasting

  • 2017 Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
    Cascina Fontana are very happy with how their 2017s are looking to date. Sample from a 50 year old chestnut barrel. Sinio and Castiglione Falletto grapes. A bouquet of strawberry bubblegum, red cherries and a little red plum. A sweetish entry to the palate. Bright, energetic red berries. Fine grained, polished tannins. Good at this level.
  • 2015 Cascina Fontana Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    From tank. A blend of grapes from the three sites. A nose of HP sauce, plums, balsamico, earth and some gentle florals. Moderately complex. Light, pure and clean on the palate. I had the impression of 2015 sweetness but with good energy and acidity. Acceptable weight and concentration. 14% alc.
  • 2015 Cascina Fontana Barolo Castiglione Falletto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    From tank. This wine may not be bottled as a separate cuvée, it may be included in the 2015 Barolo. A bouquet of balsamico, raspberries, strawberry jam and chalky minerals. I preferred this Cru to the Normale. In the mouth, more powerful and also more elegant. Energetic red cherries, raspberries and other red fruit with earth and attractive minerality. Silky tannins. To be bottled in February and released in September 2019.

Bottle tasting

  • 2017 Cascina Fontana Dolcetto d’Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba
    Bottled only one month ago. From Sinio grapes. An attractive bouquet of wild raspberries and blackberries, cranberries and milk chocolate. Drinking unexpectedly powerfully and compressed. Very tight and closed. It seemed to have good fruit. I wouldn’t open a bottle of this Dolcetto for at least another 3 years.
  • 2016 Cascina Fontana Barbera d’Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba
    Again, bottled only one month ago. A pure bouquet of blackberries, dark cherries and other black fruit, graphite, earth and menthol. Like the Dolcetto, a little closed. More body and drive than the Dolcetto. Attractive, racy acidity, “Open, not cloying dark fruit”, said Andrew. A decent Barbera d’Alba. I’m sure it’d cellar 10+ years, easily, but I’d hold it 2+ years minimum.
  • 2016 Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
    Again, bottled only one month ago. A lovely nose of mixed dried spices, dried and fresh rose petals and red fruit. In the mouth, pinot-like, elegant, bright and clean. Fresh raspberries and red cherries. “I am struck by the minerality” said Thierry. A good wine at this level.
  • 2014 Cascina Fontana Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    2014 was a difficult vintage for Cascina Fontana but saved by several warmer months before harvest. An intriguing bouquet of spices, red cherries, red liquorice and rose florals, “balsamic and minty” added Andrew. Similar to the 2014 Langhe Nebbiolo, but scaled up and deeper. Fine and a little pinot-like. Red cherries and other red fruit with limestone and chalk below the surface. Fresh, breezy and clean. Bright acids. Thierry noted a herbaceousness he liked. The wine of the tasting.
  • 2013 Cascina Fontana Barolo Castiglione Falletto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    This may have been a flawed bottle. After the tasting, we were given the rest of the bottle to take with us. It deteriorated and was worse the next day. On bouquet were raspberries, plums and other red fruit and soy notes, which, with time however became unpleasant and quite briny. On palate, from a positive perspective, it showed flavours of balsamic vinegar, red fruit, citrus zest and earth, with chalky tannins. Particularly on the second day though the palate moved blocky, disjointed and quite oxidative.

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VISIT TO GIUSEPPE RINALDI WITH CARLOTTA RINALDI - Barolo, Piemonte

And then to one of the world’s great, and one of my favourite, wineries.

When we visited, we already knew that Giuseppe Rinaldi was seriously ill, in hospital. However, Carlotta Rinaldi and everyone in this family-based winery was carrying on very professionally, hosting groups such as ours.


Carlotta explained that Rinaldi has 6.5 ha under vines and has four Barolo Crus: Brunate (1.2 ha), Le Coste (0.5 ha), Cannubi San Lorenzo (very small, less than 0.5 ha) and Ravera (3 ha). She noted that the 3 ha in Ravera is largely east facing, so it adds some freshness to the blend. Its grapes are usually picked last.

Rinaldi produces about 38,000 bottles a year, including about 16,000 bottles of Barolo, as well as Nebbiolo Langhe, Barbera and Freisa (about 2,000 bottles).

It was also poignant when Carlotta explained that the 100 year old big (98 HL) chestnut Brunate tina is to be replaced. Next to the tina is a framed photo of Carlotta’s grandfather. The tina is so large, and the space so relatively small that it will be disassembled and its replacement built, entirely inside the winery.

Carlotta mentioned that Rinaldi is replacing vines using selection massale and generally doesn’t do green harvest.

Another quirky fact Carlotta mentioned was that several of the winery’s tine are secondhand, ex-Josko Gravner’s winery, presumably sold when he made the change to qvevri.

  • 2016 Giuseppe Rinaldi Nebbiolo Langhe - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
    Carlotta described 2016 for Rinaldi as “a good balanced vintage, showing nice, slow ripening” and “fresher, brighter than 2013s, with less backbone but more energy”. There are 5-6,000 bottles of this wine in 2016. A perfumed nose of morello cherries in syrup, raspberries, strawberries and rose petals. Lovely mouthfeel. Below middle weight. Very red fruited: raspberries, cherries and some strawberries. Suave tannins. A very good Nebbiolo Langhe.
  • 2014 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Carlotta mentioned that July’s hail caused a 40% loss in production. This wine saw only 20-25 day’s maceration on the skins. A beautiful bouquet of floral perfumes, spices, dark fruit and minerals. On palate, elegance and fineness with huge power. Only medium bodied but serious structure beneath a sleek surface. Ultra-fine grained tannins and lovely sparkling acids. Real purity, energy and focus. One of the best wines of the trip.
  • 2014 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Again a maceration less than 25 days on skins. More spice on bouquet than the Tre Tine, also more earth. Notes of brushwood, tar, porcini, soy and forest floor. In the mouth, exhibiting more weight and power than the Tre Tine. A large volume of earthy fruit with chewy, grippy tannins on the very long, dry finish. Balsamic, black cherries, slate and dried herbs. A special wine but, this young, less immediately attractive than the Tre Tine.


Absolutely world class wines, it is a privilege to be able to visit there and taste them.
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FRANCESCO RINALDI WITH PIERA RINALDI

Francesco Rinaldi & Figli was a good choice for a visit after Giuseppe Rinaldi. The two Rinaldi families are related and both have a Brunate as a flagship.


In the room above the cellar, Piera showed us a joint Rinaldi family tree – of the “Famiglia Rinaldi”. The house is historic, being established in 1870, with a plate in the ceiling of the winery recording the year.

Rinaldi today has six fulltime employees and is run by Piera and her sister Paola, with their 93 year old father – Luciano, himself grandson of the founder – providing some input.

The house is very traditional using large sized botte, macerations on skins of 25-30 days and a non-interventionist winemaking approach. The two top Barolo Cru planted at Rinaldi are Brunate and Cannubi. Brunate is a 2.0 ha vineyard with south-eastern exposure with the vines planted between 1969 and 1990. Cannubi is a 2.4 ha Cannubi Boschis vineyard with a south-east exposure. The vines were planted between 1969 and 1990.

Overall, as with previous tastings from this label, I thought that these were good solid, well made, tradtional Barolos, if lacking that special, elusive x-factor of the more famous Giuseppe Rinaldi wines.

  • 2014 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo Le Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Piera described 2014 as a difficult vintage for Rinaldi saved by better weather in September and October. From vines on clay and limestone Tortonian soil. Bottled in March 2018. A fresh and clean nose of clayey soil, largely red berries and cherries, spices, bramble and dried herbs. Thierry noted that he “likes the elegance and aromatics of 2014s like these”. In the mouth, quite open textured and approachable. Savoury, brambly, a little pinot-like, with dried herbs. A solid, workman-like Brunate that will age 15-25 years, if you wish.
  • 2014 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Piera noted that the Cannubi has a “more complex soil” of clay, limestone and sand. More aromatic than the Brunate. Chalky, limestone infused minerality, with black cherries and blackberries, liquorice and gentle dark florals. On palate, more dark fruited and finer and more focussed than the Brunate, a wine I preferred. Fine grained tannins and good acidity. I’d expect this Barolo to improve over the next 10+ years.


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