TN: 2001 Red Burgundy Retrospective

2001 RED BURGUNDY RETROSPECTIVE - Chez Hugo - Baltimore (9/15/2018)

Todd T was in town with his family and Tom M organized two dinners. The second night’s theme was the 01 Burgundy. Most of us loved the vintage relatively early on but thought it would be an early drinking vintage. However the wines showed very fresh and youthful, and could further improve for at least another decade or longer.

The dinner was held at Chez Hugo, a new restaurant of Chef Steve Monnier who did a memorable job cooking for my birthday dinner. The chef prepared an exceptional tasting menu that perfectly complemented the wines. I found out he worked at Taillevent as an young aspiring chef. If you are looking for a classically trained chef with modern sensibility in Baltimore, you owe to yourself to experience his cooking.

Matcha tea tart, lima beans

Honeynut squash, habanada sorbet

Pheasant gallantine

Rye & salt baked celeriac dumplings

Pithivier de Canard

White chocolate & corriander ice cream

Black sesame meringue, concord grape sorbet, tahini moussse
Champagne
The Krug seemed slightly advanced but still very enjoyable.

• 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
  Fully mature vinous nose displaying baked apple, oyster jus, smoked oyster, orange peel, anise, brioche and limestone. Very good concentration, decadent yellow fruit driven palate impression, medium abundant fine mousse, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long decadent yellow fruit driven finish. A bit more advanced than expected but no sign of madeirization. As Tom points out, drinking like wine. (95 pts.)
• 1996 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses - France, Champagne
  Expressive nose displaying lemon curd, baked apple, marzipan, strong white chocolate, brioche and limestone. Excellent concentration, packed dense yellow fruit, medium fine medium abundant mousse, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long lemon curd and white chocolate driven finish. The almond and white chocolate expression is fascinating. (94 pts.)

White Burgundy
The Chevalier was exceptional.

• 2010 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
  Exquisite nose that screams Chevalier, very pure subtle white fruit, pear, lemon curd, honey, beeswax, strong floral note, rain water, smoke and limestone. Very pure and detailed palate, finely layered subtle white fruit, good freshness and energy, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a long subtle white fruit driven finish that delicately resonates. As usual, not showing the power of Batard, but very noble expression of harmony, elegance and energy. No sign of premox. The wine to seek at auction. (97 pts.)
• 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
  It is really educational to taste next to a great Chevaliler. Rich and fat white and yellow fruit which are typical of Chassagne-Montrachet, strong PYCM flint, white flowers, sweet spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, dense sweet yellow fruit, rich and fat, good acidity and mineral, and a long dense yellow fruit driven finish. Nicely expressing the vineyard and the producer. Despite the great wine making, simply a no match for the great Chevalier. (93 pts.)

Dauvissat
This didn’t change my opinion of the vintage.

• 2006 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
  I participated in a comprehensive white Burgundy tasting upon release of the 06 vintage and thought they were too fat, ripe and lacking acidity. My opinion really hasn’t changed over the years. Medium expressive nose displaying lemon curd, oyster jus, a hint of dirty damp cellar and a hint of limestone. Very good concentration, dense citrus fruit, medium acidity and mineral and a medium long lemon curd driven finish. There is a hint of the 06 bitterness that clips the finish. For my palate, the 06 remains the white vintage to avoid. (91 pts.)

Chambolle
The Vogue was expressive where the Mugnier was sublime.

• 2001 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
  Expressive nose displaying generous youthful crunch red fruit, strawberry rhubarb tart, cranberry, cherry syrup, raspberry jam, licorice, a hint of tar and iron, spicy spices, sap and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated red fruit, dense and deeply toned, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral, noticeable but fine tannins and a long intense red fruit driven finish with sap and spice spices at the end. It has evolved slowly since I last had it in 2012. I am a big fan of the 01 Vogue. It is educational to taste next to the 01 Mugnier Musginy. This is big and masculine like Batard where the Mugnier is subtle and harmonious like Chevalier. Drinking beautifully in a youthful way but can improve for another decade or two gaining sous bois and other tertiary notes. (95 pts.)
• 2001 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
  Absolutely gorgeous nose displaying subtle pure red and black fruit, blackberry, strawberry, sugar coated raspberry, anise, cinnamon, sautéed mushroom, a hint of sous bois, sap and earth. Exceptional balance and finesse, very finely layered rich yet subtle and pure red and black fruit, elegant, precise, detailed, weightless and sensual, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and an incredible long subtle black fruit driven finish. This is a perfectly mature classic Musigny that is drinking incredibly. (97 pts.)

RSV
The Armoux was pure and bright. The Giroud was masculine and needs time.

• 2001 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
  Another absolutely gorgeous nose displaying pure bright red fruit, raspberry, cherry, cranberry juice, a hint of sous bois, subtle Vosne spice, rose, caramel and crushed rock. Exceptionally pure and refined, very finely layered bright red fruit, clean, precise and detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and an incredibly long bright sweet red fruit driven finish with limestone and Vosne spice at the end. Drinking beautifully in a very youthful way. This can easily improve for another decade. (97 pts.)
• 2001 Camille Giroud Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
  Interesting contrast to the Arnoux RSV. Decisively more masculine nose displaying slightly cloudy ripe red fruit, cherry liqueur, raspberry jam, Vosne spice, Asian medicine, tree bark, caramel, black truffle and earth. Excellent concentration, concentrated jammy black fruit, dense and deeply toned, good acidity, strong earthy mineral, still noticeable tannins and a long sweet red fruit and Vosne spice driven finish. This seems not as pure, bright and detailed as the Arnoux version, also not as ready. It will be interesting to compare again in a decade. (94 pts.)

Chambertin Clos de Beze
Two of the most youthful wines of the night. Not the same level as the Rousseaus served next.

• 2001 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
  Expressive slightly masculine nose displaying youthful red fruit, raspberry jam, coffee, a hint of spearmint, raw mushroom, caramel and earth. Excellent concentration, packed jammy red fruit, good acidity and mineral, still noticeable tannins and a medium to long dense jammy red fruit driven finish. The Giroud seems brighter and more pure in this flight. Perhaps this and the Giroud CDB are the least ready. I highly recommend waiting for at least another five years. (93 pts.)
• 2001 Camille Giroud Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
  Youthful expressive nose displaying bright red fruit, strawberry, cherry candy, rose, cep, spicy spices and limestone. Perfectly integrated youthful palate, nicely layered pure red fruit, good precision and detail, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long bright red fruit driven finish. Surprisingly pure, refined and elegant. It will improve for another decade. Nice showing. (94 pts.)

Rousseau
Both showed incredibly well.

• 2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
  Perfectly mature complex nose displaying sweet black fruit, strong Chinese medicine and cedar, a hint of sous bois, caramel, sautéed mushroom and earth. Beautifully integrated harmonious palate, subtle sweet black fruit driven palate impression, silky and weightless, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. It is showing excellent finesse. This particular bottle is drinking exceptional well. (97 pts.)
• 2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
  Another perfectly mature nose displaying dense and deeply toned decadent black fruit, blackberry, a hint of raspberry jam, Chinese medicine, caramel, a hint of sous bois, sweet spices, dark flowers and earth. Exceptional balance and finesse, very finely layered decadent yet pure black fruit, silky and fluid, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long decadent black fruit driven finish. Perhaps slightly less expressive than the CSJ but showing greater concentration and depth. Exceptional showing! (98 pts.)

Clos Vougeot
The Mortet was exceptional for my palate.

• 2001 Domaine Denis Mortet Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Youthful expressive nose displaying big ripe decadent red fruit, strawberry jam, raspberry, sesame perhaps from oak, caramel, dark spices, dark flowers and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense red fruit, dense and deeply toned, perfect amount of acidity, earth mineral and a long intense red fruit and dark spices driven finish. It is still very youthful not showing much sous bois. This displays the classic Mortet style of the period, i.e. ripe, intense and concentrated. For my palate, the style is similar to Leroy. Although it is really enjoyable with the concentrated youthful fruit, another decade of cellaring will really help, gaining sous bois and tertiary notes. (96 pts.)
• 2001 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Medium expressive nose displaying ripe red fruit, raspberry, cherry, a hint of cedar, eucalyptus, cinnamon, tree bark and earth. Nicely integrated palate, pack red fruit, good acidity, earthy mineral, noticeable but fine tannins and a medium to long red fruit driven finish. Lacking intensity and concentration of the Mortet. (92 pts.)

ZH

• 1989 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Sélection de Grains Nobles - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
  Dark brown. Dry fig and dry apricot dominate, caramel, cinnamon and anise. Incredibly concentrated, dense deeply toned dry yellow fruit, bright acidity and an long intense dry fig and cinnamon driven finish. I much prefer the youthful expression of ZH SGNs. This reminds me Malaga a bit. (93 pts.)

This was another memorable evening of great wines, great food and great friends!
Posted from CellarTracker

great notes on great wines and the food looked awesome as well

great notes thanks for posting. I really liked the 2001 vintage early on. Now since pricing has skyrocketed waiting a few more years on them. I have both the 01 Vogue BM and Rousseau CSJ. Thinking of starting in 2021 at age 20.

Thanks Kevin. A really nice set of wines to check in on the vintage with.

Thanks for a great report, Kevin. I still find that I often prefer the 2001 to the 2002 version of the same wine.

I love the 2001 vintage for its finesse. At the top end the wines are just beautiful

Thanks for the notes on a very nice set of wines. Am a fan of 2001 and thought your notes on the Arnoux and Rousseau wines were spot on with my impressions (your notes are far more evocative than mine ever will be).

But why only Grand Cru? I would have liked to have seen how ‘lesser’ wines have done, as many seemed to smooth out fine with age.

PS: those pictures are large enough to salivate over. What does the salt-baking do to the ravioli?

01 Rousseau wines are rockstar good. The Clos de la Roche is still a baby.

2001s are starting to drink well these days in my experience. Thanks for the notes!

We did a double blind event last night and 2 wines brought just happened to be 01 Dujac CDLR and 01 Ponsot CSD. Both drinking well but the Ponsot was drinking perfectly while the Dujac is still peaking. Hold off on those 01 Dujacs of you can. I suspect they will be magic in 5-10 years.

• 2001 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (9/20/2018)
  Drank double blind alongside the 01 Ponsot CSD. This had a lot of similar characteristics to the Ponsot. The stems and tannins made me suspect this was 01 Dujac that I brought. A wonderful wine now but just a bit bigger and more tannic next to the 01 Ponsot CSD. My number 2 tonight and the group number 5. Aka that night when 01 Dujac CDLR placed 5th. A great wine which will be even better in 5-10 years.
• 2001 Domaine Ponsot Clos St. Denis Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru (9/20/2018)
  Very pretty with stems character. A bit more elegant than the 01 Dujac CDLR. Drank double blind. This was tied for WOTN tonight. I guessed this must have been another Dujac. No oak or awkwardness that one would expect from 01 Ponsot. Just a delicious wine. My number 1 and tied for group #1 tonight.

Posted from CellarTracker

You got an appreciably better bottle than the last 2001 Mugnier Musigny I drank. Now I’m hoping I cross paths with it again some time soon.

You have eight guys each contributing. In some ways, one of the flaws of this type of events. When I taste very well store bottles of the 71 or 62 village wines, I remind myself that I should cellar them much longer.

I don’t know a thing about the wines, but I’d like to tuck into that duck; looks amazing. Thanks for the notes.

Thanks for the tns. Blind tasting is a great equalizer as some folks would have dismissed based on being Ponsot. If one prefers a lot of sous bois, tertiary notes, sweet indescriptive fruit and etc., most of the wines tasted need another decade or longer to be read.

William,
I am not the biggest fan of Mugnier but this was sublime.

Great minds think alike I guess.

We also had a blind Burg dinner this week in L.A. and the stars that emerged were 2001 wines. Purely by chance, several attendees brought 01 Grand Cru wines. As others have noted, the best 01s are wines of somewhat surprising power, but they have an elegance and finesse about them. Many are ready to go, but to my mind the best examples still need time, as Fred notes.

In our double blind mini-bracket of Mugneret Gibourg Clos Vougeot, Mortet Chambertin and the Rousseau CSJ, all wines showed well and had excellent freshness. But the Mortet is the one most in need of time. The Rousseau is gorgeous and distinctly black-fruited as Kevin noted but our bottle still seemed somewhat compact and holding something in reserve. The Gibourg was the star of the night in my opinion – soft but persistent, with the trademark MG mouthfeel and just the right amount of bottle sweetness/decay.

WBer Nowell Karten deserves credit for nailing the producer and vintage on the MG. (Can’t believe he couldn’t identify the vineyard as well!!!). Discussing the wines later, he brought up a smart observation. I always describes MG wines as “feminine” and “understated.” Nowell basically asked if I would say the same thing if the wines were made by a man, essentially accusing me of confirmation bias. It’s an interesting question to ponder … does their gender really have anything to do with what it’s in the bottle?

same, I was reading the note and thinking “dang must be nice”. Have had 2 in the last 5 years and both were shut down harder than MUTUMBO blocking Weatherspoon 3 times in a row and finger wagging after each time

Both the 01 and the 02 MG CV are exceptional.

• 2001 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (2/17/2017)
  Another lost Friday afternoon gathering – Provenance, Power of Blind tasting and loving M. Gibourg CV (Charlie Palmer - Washington DC): Initially my wine of the flight. Absolutely gorgeous floral nose, raspberry preserve, crushed blackberry, caramel, perfume, only a hint of sous bois and iron. Fully integrated sensual palate, silky and airy, floral raspberry fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and a long sweet floral finish. Clearly expressing the 01 vintage typicity that we all love, i.e. Neither the most concentrated nor layered but with expressive detailed floral nose that is vibrant. My rating is the highest on CT but this is a beautiful GC Burgundy at the youthful peak. (96 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

The closest Clos Vougeot gets to Musigny - in spirit, not in distance. Have such a weakness for this bottling.