TNs: A Juge head-fake and a bunch of Bordeaux from ‘82 to ‘86

TNs: A Juge head-fake and a bunch of Bordeaux from ‘82 to ‘86
September 14, 2018 @ Sutton Inn, NYC

A long-time former active participant of the local tri-state wine scene, Ian, flew in for a 1-nighter from his base in London. This was the easiest excuse for the 8 of us to get together for some catching-up while imbibing on some early 80s Bordeaux as the main wine theme. It was an evening of good food, fun wines, and a very enjoyable and cordial group.

We convened at Sutton Inn for 5 (or 6, as some opted in/out of dessert) courses of dishes that impressed me more this time than the 2 previous experiences that I’ve had at the restaurant. Thanks to JC and Jim for taking care of the dining arrangement that was overall casual, yet comfortable, and I was generally positive with my steak, duck breast and the tomato salad as my standout dishes, and balanced with the courteous and efficient service on a busy Friday night dining in New York.


The Whites:

2006 Phillponnat La Léon Grand Cru
Jolted by the intense ripeness with citrus, spice and very dry chalk notes. Pleasing and long. B+

2004 Laville Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac-Leognan
With vigorous swirling the wine started to showcase finesse with power and good balance with firm, ripe white fruit. Agree with Jayson, who brought, that this was young and tight, but I also thought that, as it is, this was already good and set-up to get better with bottle years. Long finish. B++

2005 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, Pessac-Leognan
Expressive bouquet, plenty of wood. Full-bodied on the plate with quite an overwhelming dose of wood and may have suffered with more harshness in comparison with the fine Laville. Jim (or Justin) said this tastes like it contains much more Sauvignon Blanc. B-


The Reds:

Flight 1

1982 Chateau Figeac, Saint-Emilion
Not part of the original-declared wines, but this is one of Jim’s generous last-minute add-ins. He said that this bottle is not in the same usually excellent showing of his his earlier bottles from the same purchased lot, but to me this was in still good drinking shape. Slight funkiness in the beginning that blew off over time. Ripe and long. B

1982 Chateu Lafon Rochet, Saint Estephe
I liked the tobacco, leather-infused nose. It came across as austere or perhaps simply appearing to have some component(s) that will never meld to form a harmonious wine. B-

1982 Chateau Loville Barton, Saint Julien
Corked.


Flight 2

1985 Chateau Leoville las Cases, Saint Julien
Heavy cabernet sauvignon presence in both the bouquet and the palate. Power and tight muscular sensation. Fine layer of firm ripe fruit with the secondary traits. Already good and I’d still say that adding on 5 to 10 years will put up another notch or 2 to the positive meter. B++

1985 Chateau Rauzan Segla, Margaux
Alluring very Margaux bouquet with floral and leather notes. High in acidity and some white pepper spiciness. Elegant mouth presence and this bottle appears to be at the apogee of its good drinking form, but with still years to keep at the same level. Good, delicious length. I’m impressed. A-

1985 Chateau Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien
Another backup bottle that was generously opened on the spot by JC. The funky, band-aid bouquet that I sensed in older Cordier wines was definitely present, and which blew away as quickly as it appeared. Ripe black and blue fruit with some earthiness. I’d love to get an opportunity to revisit with more bottle age. B+


Flight 3

The Juge Head-fake (1983 Chateau Leoville Poyferre, Saint Julien)
As I recall, it was a rush to double decant the Poyferre and the first available clean bottle that Jayson had was the 2014 Juge Cornas. A few of us kidded him about the subliminal name-brand dropping given the hot ‘privileged’ market for the Juge these days. The Poyferre displayed heavy cabernet nose and plenty of complexity with ripe fruit, graphite and good length. B+

1983 Chateau Margaux, Margaux
Young and quite backward. Strong, without doubt, Margaux bouquet. A seemingly young Padawan that’s currently trudging along and still looking to shed its youth and innocence, before gaining and harnessing all its power, complexity to lead its co-vintage to greatness. Huge potential. B++

1983 Chateau Pichon Lalande, Pauillac
The wet leaves, perfumed fruit and scorched earth on the nose. One of the youngest-tasting 1983 PLLs that I’ve come upon in recent years. Silky smooth and, pound-for-pound, showed why this consistently remains as one of my wines of the vintage. A-

1983 Chateau Rauzan Segla, Margaux
Another last-minute bottle that was not originally declared. More Margaux bouquet. Can’t help but compare to the earlier 1985 version and while similarities are obvious, this wine was pleasant enough to drink today, but still showed a little more backward and the seeming need for more cellar time to come together. B+





Flight 4

1986 Chateau Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien
Aside from the 1982 vintage, an on-form 1986 is the best GL that I’ve had from the decade of the 80s …. and the 90’s …. and up until mid 2000s (not tasted any post 2005). This bottle is not an exception. The so-called 1986 vintage backwardness still showed, but even then the wine balances itself out, highlighted by secondary characters with black fruit, some leather, earthy notes and mineral complexity. Many happy years ahead for those that own. My WOTN. A-


1986 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint Julien
Corked.


Sweet Wines and Post dinner Sherry

1988 Chateau Climens, Barsac
Conversation ensued that his may not be a representative bottle, with what I thought of the wine being quite thin and with a clipped finish. B-

1988 Chateu D’Yquem, Sauternes
Full-bodied, fresh, silky smooth, light crème brulee, and will now be in the apogee of the not-so-many sweet wines that I’ve ever had. A-

1948 Barbeito Malvesia Madeira (hoping an attendee can chime in and provide the exact name of the bottle)
I can’t help but compare to a couple of 1928s that Jim also shared about 6 weeks back and this one was less intense, a little more alcohol on the forefront, but showed good length. B

Ramon - 80’s Bdx strike again and I have to say that you took much better s than me. And it was a 1948 Barbeito Malvesia Madeira that Jim broke out post Sauternes.

Amazing line up and terrific notes, wish I could have attended. Ramon, you know how I feel about 83 Bordeaux — that it’s pretty much as good as 85 and that some will last longer — and these notes are another data point to that end.

Thanks Ramon

Ian was visiting from London and Ramon organized a group to celebrate his visit. Jim and JC arranged dinner at Sutton Inn, an improvised tasting menu by ordering 4 orders of various mains for the 8 os us- worked great, and restaurant did a good job.

We started with the 2006 Phillponnat La Leon Blanc de Noirs. Full, ripe but balanced, citrus zest and pit fruits, pretty sure I wouldn’t have guessed 100% PN but enjoyed. B+

With heirloom tomato salad with a corn milk sauce and tapioca puffs

2004 Laville Haut-Brion Blanc
Really tight at first, but deep. I wrote down B+/B but revisited later and it was a different beast, delicious,heading toward excellent.

2005 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc
Oak, thick, a little hot. C+/B-

Really nice charcuterie plate, I surprised myself by especially loving the mortadella

1982 Figeac
Jim who brought was worried, and at first there was a kind of pruney note, but it transformed into something that seemed more representative of that Figeac CF-ishness. Herby, leafy, red fruits, earth. B+/B
1982 Lafon Rochet
A bit workman like, ok but without any 82 glamor. B-

1982 Leoville Barton
Corked, alas.

Gnocchi, I thought it was to have a mushroom sauce, but more tomato (or sun dried tomato). Hard match, but the wines pulled through

1985 Leoville las Cases
Divisive wine, some really liked , I thought somewhat sturdy/blocky. Might have been better with a steak. B

1985 Rausan Segla
Lovely, elegant,red fruits and sandalwood. I’ve always thought 86 RS was highpoint of the chateau, followed by the 83, but this is maybe my new fave. A-

1985 Gruaud Larose
Most wines were doubledecanted in advance, this was opened by JC as a backup (not sure for what!). Took a while to open up, but classic brawny/earthy GL with some tobacco notes. B+

My favorite course of the night, duck breast with a orange/ginger sauce/puree (deconstructed duck l’orange someone said- but a better red match)

1983 Ch. Marguax
Big brooding beast, sure will be fantastic, not a load of fun right now. B
1983 Chateau Rauzan Segla,
A bit reticent compared to other bottles I’ve had, but still lovely with power and grace. B+/A-

1983 Leoville Poyferre
(cork broke and fell in during double decant, so in a Juge bottle)
Brawny for LP, cassis and gunflint, needs time. B/B+ for now

1983 Pichon Lalande
Cassis and black raspberry, green tobacco leaf, balanced and long, A-

Dry aged steak, snap peas, excellent potatoes
1986 Ducru-Beaucaillou
Corked

1986 Gruaud Larose
I always love this wine, but an especially giving bottle. POwerful, complex, dark fruits with earth and cigarbox, just a hint of Cordier funk. A-/A


1986 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou,
Corked.

Some had baked Alaska

1988 Climens
Usual orange marmalade/zest, good color, but shorter than other bottles I’ve had. B-/B

1988 Ch. D’Yquem (375)
Deep, long., classic. A-/B+

Really fun night.

Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Would you say the Poyferre improved after spending some time in the Juge bottle?

So if the Poyferre was in the Juge btl then does that mean that the Juge was in the Poyferre btl?

So. There was no juge juice anywhere?!?

No Fu, you got it all.

Nope. I finished this bottle of Juge 3 weeks ago, and it was the first that made me think that he didn’t bottle 2014 all at once, per his historic practice. (This was one of a pair purchased about 5-6 months after prior purchases.) It was markedly less high toned and more earthy and tree barky than the prior two bottles (although better day 2).

Great notes. I’ve had a couple 82 Figeacs that I’ve loved, so I can understand the disappointment in an off bottle. Real shame on the 86 Ducru - what a great wine when you can find one that isn’t corked.

I’ve had 83s over many years now and don’t recall the disappointments. Yes, I’m with you on how good they can be, plus they look like they can go the distance.

I’ve not had as much 85s but also don’t have much recollection on having negative experiences.

Both good Bordeaux years.

Nice report! I remember buying a case of 86 Talbot on release and only a few bottles of 86 Gruaud because it was “too expensive.” What was I thinking?

Yes, the '86 Gruaud is expensive … NOW. However, there certainly should be no shame in having bought a case of the '86 Talbot.

Great notes guys; sorry I missed it

The 1985 Rauzan Segla was ridiculously expressive, easily my wotn. The 1986 Gruaud was a very different style but nearly as enjoyable. Dark fruited, some pencil shavings, deep and fascinating.

The 1983 RS was also extremely enjoyable.

The 1983 Margaux was very impressive but very young. Revisit in a decade.

The 1988 Climens was disappointing, not nearly up to the level of other bottles I’ve had in the last few years (though those were mostly 375s. Really sorry to have missed the Yquem but can’t manage the late nights these days.

Thank you everyone for a very enjoyable evening!

Not ashamed of the Talbot. Ashamed of not buying more Gruaud at release prices!

Nice notes. However, may I suggest changing the phrase “fake Juge?” It suggests counterfeit Juge to the casual reader (esp. if it shows up on an Internet search), and that’s
not a fair impression to leave for anyone…

Bruce

“Ashamed of not buying more XXX at release prices!”

That could be one of the standard motto’s around here.

I generally prefer the 86 Talbot to the 86 Gruaud. Both are great.

That said, my first truly expensive wine purchase was the 86 Gruaud in 1995 for … ~$25. I went crazy and bought 3. Oh the naïveté of youth!