Léoville-Barton 1996, Pontet Canet 2003 + Charles Orban Bl de Blancs

Two very different Bordeaux, but each excellent, were preceded by rather a good champagne:

Charles Orban Blanc de Blancs NV

This is one my favourite blanc de blancs and provides excellent value. The nose is quite flowery, with notes of spring flowers and a touch of honey. In the mouth, it’s quite rich and buttery at first, but with notes of citrus fruits coming through on the middle section and a crisp, refreshing finish. All that for around 20€. The Billecart-Salmon tasted a few days previously, costing twice as much, was not in the same league.

Léoville-Barton 1996

A great example of Barton, this has mellowed into a really satisfying Saint Julien. The nose is complex, with nuts, forest fruit, cigar box and a large dollop of cherry. The initial taste is less full-bodied than the last bottle, with a more open blend of dark cherry, blackcurrant and forest fruits, before a middle section that lifts to the top of the palate and a long finish which focuses on blackberry flavours. It’s much more charming than the 90 was at the same stage, quite similar to the 85. Perfect balance, perfect feel.
This is at peak, I can’t see it improving further, but it has a good five or ten years to go.
Not quite as good as the 90, because the middle section lacks the latter’s power and acceleration into the finale, but an excellent wine.

Pontet-Canet 2003

I got some of this for one of my daughters’ birth year, thanks to the excellent advice received here, and I’m glad I did.

It started badly: although I opened it in the morning, I didn’t decant, which was a mistake. At first, the nose was cramped, with a lot of liquorice and the fruit was not burnt, but over-concentrated and rather pinched. “Typical bloody 2003”, I thought. After a few hours, however, something much better emerged. The nose opened, with the usual Pauillac notes of cigar box and blackcurrant, the fruit shed its shackles and although ripe, became a much more typical display of thick, blackcurrant jammy Pauillac. So ultimately one of the best Pontet-Canets I’ve had. I think it needs at least another five years, maybe more, with a long life ahead.

Really excellent notes, Julian. Thanks for posting them. I have to admit that I like the 2003 Pontet Canet as well, more than I had expected.

Useful notes indeed. I have a bottle of 2003 PC standing up in the cellar. Looks like this is at least an interesting time to open it.

Cheers guys! I’ve never been a PC fan, nor a 2003 fan, so it was a double whammy. Just over dinner, the transformation was remarkable. I had explained to my wife that we were trying it in order to check whether or not it would be suitable for Emma’s future birthdays. She took one sip and said “No way José”. It did taste as if it would be shot before ever being good. Then the wine blossomed in the glasses and we discovered we’d emptied most of the bottle, muttering how good it actually was. The power grew incrementally, as did the breadth of the finish. So pretty cool for an 03. I think maybe just ahead of the Duhart.

Very nice notes. I have both wines, so I have an interest. I very much enjoyed the 2003 PC upon release but I did not enjoy subsequent bottles as much. The last one was about 5 years ago. Your note shows promise, but I’ll try to hold off a little longer.

How did Emma react to your checking on her wine? (I like you have a 2003 child).

I’ve had both of those a few times and agree completely with your comments Julian. I was worried about the 2003 PC for a while but it’s emerging from its dumb stage and drinking well with a good decant. The 1996 LB is in a great place.

Both will improve with more age.

Don’t believe the hype — 2003 is a good left bank vintage. A little inconsistent but excellent at the higher levels.

It’s like people object to 2003 in principle somehow — that temps can’t be that high and also have good wine. But the proof is in the bottle

Thank you all for chiming in.

Diane - no hurry for either, but the LB is understandably more advanced than the PC.

Andrew - she’s getting used to it! We have already tried one or two and will slowly work our way through the rest of the 03s, before deciding what to actually keep for her. Then we have to do the same with the 06s for Daphne. So plenty of fun in perspective!

David - cheers - interestingly enough, I’ve heard in other quarters that the 96s were overrated compared to the 95s. I really can’t imagine why. Anyway, Barton has joined Lagrange and Calon in my list of 96s I’ve enjoyed in the last year. I think they’re excellent and (relatively) good value.

Marcus - if hype there was, it was going in the other direction! So I suppose it’s more a backlash. Well, 03 will always be the most divisive vintage ever. There are (or were) some truly appalling wines from many respected châteaux, but I’m starting to agree that the top dozen are very good. I’m looking forward to trying some of them.

Not been a fan of 2003 in Bordeaux (or Burgundy). Tasted quite a bit and did not like most wines. I still have Cos and Montrose and I am pinning my hopes o these two wines. Few years ago I opened the Montrose for my wine group and it was very rich and powerful but still quite monolithic and backward and perhaps in need of another decade. But it had freshness that many other 2003s did not.

Did you decant, and if so,for how long?

Sanjay, I’m counting on the Montrose being great for my daughter in the future - fingers crossed!

Ted - no, I seldom decant - I prefer to open well in advance, and in this case there was really no need to decant.

2003 Cos is not your grandfather’s Cos, but I liked it. Here’s my TN from June:

2003 Cos d’Estournel: Cellared since release, perfect cork and fill. Dark red core, minimal lightening at rim. Huge forward nose of ripe dark cherries, cassis, grilled meat and cedar. A hint of alcoholic heat on the nose on opening dissipates within an hour as the aromas and flavors become even more impressive. Full-bodied, rich lush concentrated ripe fruit and silky palate-coating intensity. Very ripe, not jammy, almost but not quite raisiny and more Napa-esque than usual for Cos. It would still be identifiable as Bordeaux in a flight of Napa cabs. Long finish with no fading on the back palate. No real complexity yet but the balance is good with fair acidity and plenty of tannin to age for many years. I think the complexity will come, but it’s hard to resist right now. A great match with a 60-day dry-aged Flannery NY steak from the grill.

I can see why this was controversial. If you live for typicity and your definition of perfectly ripe is on the AFWE, give me crunchy tartness side of the spectrum, this will disappoint. But it’s still recognizable as Bordeaux even if very ripe and with the concentration turned up to 11.

Outstanding.

I agree. And the 2003 PC in particular has been a truly joyous wine, really all the way along since it was released. It’s hard to imagine anyone who loves Bordeaux wouldn’t enjoy that wine, unless they just can’t get past the idea of it being a 2003.

Drank this 3 weeks ago in a restaurant in NOLA. This bottle’s in good drinking form.

Thanks, Ramon, it’s on my playlist for the coming months!

Had the 2003 Pontet Canet tonight with my steak dinner, and it was delicious. Still a long way to go until full maturity, but lovely wine.

Thanks for the note on Cos. I purchased a case of half bottles in addition few 750s. I have been drinking a 375 every few years. My Tns would resemble yours. Different to the '82, '86 and even '96 for that matter.

I went deep for 2+ cases of the 03 PC. Thanks for the note! Will have to locate one to try, though I think I’ll likely leave the rest alone for another 10+.