On Tuesday, February 20, 2018, fourteen of us gathered in the Gold Room at Valentino restaurant in Santa Monica California for the second night of the 2010 Vintage Assessment and Oxidation Check dinners. This year was our 13th year of holding these events. These dinners are held each year in February and March in Los Angeles. We taste the vintage which is then 7.5 years from the date of harvest, and we usually taste 60 to 75 of the top wines from the vintage over the course of three nights.
I’m normally much more timely about getting the notes posted, for which I apologize.
On February 20 we tasted thirty-two wines from the 2010 vintage in four flights, consisting of thirty grand crus from hyphenated Montrachet vineyards and two ringers – one French and one from California. All of the wines were served single blind (except for the ringers which were totally unknown to anyone but me). All of the voting took place completely blind (with individual written ballots) with the attendees ranking their top five wines by bottle number.
Valentino Wine Director Paul Sherman with the glasses
APPETIZERS WITH CHAMPAGNE AND 2000 CHEVALIER MONTRACHET
Beef Carpaccio, Crudo Di Pesce On A Spoon, Grilled Pizza With Speck And Arugola, Frico
2000 Niellon Chevalier Montrachet
Light gold color; light white flowers aromas – amazing for a 2000 at this age; very elegant; light, but charming and classy wine. (Thanks to Fred Chien for bringing this as a starter wine. It was really impressive for its age, and it outperformed the 2010 version in the fourth flight.) 94
2002 Dom Perignon Champagne
Medium gold color; fine bubbles; orange citrus and brioche aromas; bright citrusy flavors with the brioche character rising in the background; very long finish with a hint of minerality. Really fine and seems to be at its peak. 94
FLIGHT ONE: CRIOTS AND BBM
Ahi Tuna Tartare With An Orange Flavored Burrata
1 [2010 H Boillot Bienvenues Batard Montrachet]
Medium gold color; pear and green apple aromas; a surprisingly big and rich BBM; initially came across as relatively fat; later it showed a bit more elegance. Group Rank: Tied for 14th, 4 points (0/0/0/2/0) 94
2 [2010 Pernot Bienvenues Batard Montrachet]
Medium gold color; very light white flowers aromas; unlike #1, this is a much lighter bodied wine, but it too has a surprisingly rich finish for BBM or Criots. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 93
3 [2010 Jacques Carillon Bienvenues Batard Montrachet]
This is still in the medium gold range but is slightly lighter than #1 of #2; this has some prototype BBM honeysuckle in the aromas along with other white flowers; on the palate, this is very dense for BBM, yet it is has a very nice balancing acidity; later, on the second pass, this showed a riper fruit note; long sweet finish. Group Rank: Tied for 8th, 9 points (0/0/3/0/0) 94
4 [2010 Rochioli Sweetwater Ch (Ringer #1)] ]
Medium gold color; very light green apple with a faint hint of honeysuckle; a very impressive layered wine on the mid-palate; but finishes slightly shorter than #1 and #3. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 93
5 [2010 Ramonet Bienvenues Batard Montrachet]
Between light and medium gold color; very light white flowers aromas; on the palate this has about 3 times the amount of depth and power you would expect from the very light aromas; very impressive texture and a long sweet finish with some minerals as well. Group Rank: Tied for 5th, 14 points (0/1/1/3/1) 94
6 [2010 Leflaive Bienvenues Batard Montrachet]
Between light and medium gold color; very light spearmint and citrus; very nice light sweet citrus flavors with very good acidity; finish isn’t quite as impressive as the mid-palate. Group Rank: Tied for 18th, 2 points (0/0/0/1/0) 93
7 [2010 Colin-Morey Bienvenues Batard Montrachet]
Between light and medium gold color; some sweet white flowers aromas; light and elegant on the palate with very good acidity and superb length; and extremely long sweet citrus and minerals finish. An extraordinary wine in a very impressive flight for BBM/Criots. My No. 3 wine of the night. Group Rank: 7th, 12 points (1/0/2/0/1) 95
8 [2010 Belland Criots- Batard Montrachet [DIAM] ]
Relatively light gold color; some slight SO2 (reduction) and white flowers in the aromas. medium bodied, elegant wine with very good density; a very long minerals and fruit finish. This has some upside. Group Rank: Tied for 20th, 1 point (0/0/0/0/1) 92+
FLIGHT TWO: BATARD MONTRACHET
Quail Ragu With Polenta And Wild Mushrooms
9 [2010 H. Boillot Batard Montrachet]
Medium gold color; pineapple and green apple aromas; this wine really isn’t in balance; there is rich and voluptuous texture and okay acidity, but the flavors aren’t there. Six of the group felt this was advanced. I eventually decided they were right. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 90-Advanced?
10 [2010 Pernot Batard Montrachet]
Medium-plus gold color; red apple and toast and a hint of smoke and brioche; this one has nothing compelling going on on the palate either. Almost everyone agrees this is advanced. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 87-Advvanced
11 [2010 Ramonet Batard Montrachet]
Medium gold color; a little ripe pear aroma and a hint of toast; acceptable citrus and pear flavors; at the very end of the night this was much better – aromas now showed a little mint and lime citrus – toast character was gone; nice lemon-lime flavors and a decent finish. A surprisingly good recovery, but it took over three hours to get there. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 92|94?
12 [2010 Fabien Coche Batard Montrachet]
Medium gold but lighter than Nos. 9-11; green apple aromas; key lime flavors with bright acidity and a very nice finish. Group Rank: Tied for 8th, 9 points (0/0/1/2/2) 94
13 [2010 Sauzet Batard Montrachet]
Between light and medium gold; light pear and white flowers aromas; very elegant, the classiest wine in this flight, yet it doesn’t have the power or depth of #12. Very nice finish. Group Rank: Tied for 14th, 4 points (0/0/0/2/0) 93+_
14 [2010 Leflaive Batard Montrachet]
Fairly dark gold color; very strong overripe apple and toast aromas – clearly oxidized and everyone agrees. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) DQ-oxidized
15 [2010 Girardin Batard Montrachet]
Between light and medium gold color; light floral and green apple aromas; very bright green apple and almost citrus flavors; nice finish. Group Rank: Tied for 20th, 1 points (0/0/0/0/1) 93
16 [2010 Bachelet-Monnot Batard Montrachet]
Light almost white gold color; light citrus with faint white flowers aromas; on the palate this comes across as quite light compared to the others – lighter texture, less fruit depth, maybe less alcohol. There’s a sense that everything is held in reserve here. Acidity is good. Will this unfold with more time? Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 92+?
FLIGHT THREE: CHEVALIER MONTRACHET MONTRACHET (A)
Risotto With Lobster And Mixed Seafood – for us the signature entrée at Valentino
17 [2010 Sauzet Chevalier Montrachet]
Between light and medium gold color; light citrus and pear aromas; similar citrus and pear flavors, with good acidity and a long finish with a hint of smoke. Group Rank: Tied for 12th, 5 points (1/0/0/0/0) 94+
18 [2010 H. Boillot Chevalier Montrachet]
Medium gold color; obvious TCA in the aromas (which even I can detect); despite the TCA , this tastes pretty good – so it’s a shame it’s corked. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) DQ-Corked
19 [2010 Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet]
Between light and medium gold color; some citrus aromas with a hint of pineapple; very bright on the palate, lime and distinct hazelnut character – more like Meursault than Chevy. Group Rank: 17th, 3 points (0/0/1/0/0) 93
20 [2010 Prieur Chevalier Montrachet]
Almost medium gold color; very rich, full blown floral aromas with toasty elements; on the palate this comes across like sour lemon pudding. Two people, including me, thought this was advanced. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 89-Advanced
21 [2010 Bouchard Chevalier Montrachet [DIAM] ]
Light gold color; white flowers and lime citrus aromas; fairly intense lemon-lime citrus, good acidity and minerality and a very long minerally finish. Group Rank: Tied for 5th, 14 points (0/2/2/0/0) 94+
22 [2010 Philippe Colin Chevalier Montrachet]
Light white gold color ; beautiful complex citrus and floral aromas; but on the palate this comes across as a bit fat and too rich for Chevalier, particularly on the finish; lacks the minerality and acidity you expect for Chevalier. A very nice wine if this was Batard, but not a great Chevalier. Some of the others liked this much more than I did. Group Rank: 3rd, 22 points (2/1/1/1/3) 93
23 [2010 Girardin Chevalier Montrachet]
Fairly light gold color; aromas of citrus and the green midori liquer; lots of citrus on the mid-palate and there seemed to be good minerality but it was obscured a bit by some obvious phenols in the finish. This needs time but has a definite upside potential. Group Rank: 18th, 0 points (0/0/0/1/0) 93+
24 [2010 JM Pillot Chevalier Montrachet]
Light gold color; citrus aromas and you can actually smell the minerality here; powerful citrus and minerals with extremely good acidity; a really wonderful citrus and minerals finish which also exhibits a lot of phenols. My No. 2 wine of the night. Group Rank: 10th, 8 points (0/1/1/0/1) 95+
FLIGHT FOUR: CHEVALIER MONTRACHET MONTRACHET (B)
Veal Tenderloin With Cusie Stuffed Ravioli And Escarole Cream Sauce
25 [2010 Dancer Chevalier Montrachet]
Between light and medium gold color; light citrus aromas with a some modest reduction; this wine has ripe key lime fruit with high sweetness and high acidity; the texture is fatter than the other Chevys in this flight, but this is very full throttle stuff – high fruit extract, high acidity and a relatively high level of sucrosite; the first half of the finish is very expansive; the last half is fairly high in acidity. This would seem to have considerable potential, but it’s hard to assess. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 94+?
26 [2010 Niellon Chevalier Montrachet]
Medium gold color – the darkest of the flight; some green apple and light oak notes; good lemon-lime fruit with moderate intensity and good acidity; the finish doesn’t quite match the palate however. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 93
27 [2010 Ramonet Chevalier Montrachet]
Between light and medium gold color; white flowers and meyer lemon aromas; bright citrus flavors but noticeably tight at the moment, good acidity and super minerality on the palate and the finish. This really needs time to unfold. Group Rank: Tied for 14th, 4 points (0/0/0/2/0) 94+
28 [2010 Colin-Morey Chassagne En Remilly (Ringer #2) ]
Between light and medium gold color; some light S02 and white flowers; complex citrus flavors with great minerality and excellent acidity; long very elegant finish. My No. 5 wine of the night. Group Rank: 1st, 53 points (5/6/1/0/1) 95
29 [2010 Marc Morey Chevalier Montrachet]
Medium gold color; citrus aromas (grapefruit) and white flowers; a richer wine on the mid-palate with Batard-level weight and fat, yet very bright grapefruit/lemon citrus flavors and awesome long minerally finish. My No. 4 wine of the night. Group Rank: 4th, 17 points (2/1/0/1/1) 95
30 [2010 Colin-Morey Chevalier Montrachet]
Light gold color; pear and citrus aromas; bright, light lemon citrus but very minerally wine; very long minerally finish. Group Rank: 11th, 6 points (0/1/0/0/2) 94
31 [2010 Francois Carillon Chevalier Montrachet]
Light gold color; beautiful white flowers and citrus aromas; light sweet citrus flavors with tremendous elegance and sneaky minerality in a very long finish. Truly awesome wine. My No. 1 wine of the night. Group Rank: 2nd, 30 points (4/1/2/0/0) 96
32 [2010 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Chevalier Montrachet [DIAM] ]
Light gold color; white flowers and citrus aromas; lemon citrus and nice minerality on the mid-palate, very nice but moderate phenols on the finish will take some time to resolve. Group Rank: Tied for 12th, 5 points (0/1/0/0/1) 94
DESSERT COURSE
Cassatina Siciliana With Prickly Pear Sorbet
1996 Donhoff Oberhauser Brücke Eiswein
Milky brown color; fabulous botrytised fruit and mandarin orange aromas; rich, syrupy botrytised fruit flavors and a finish that goes on for several minutes. Awesome stuff. Thanks to Alan Weinberg for bringing another awesome Donhoff Eiswein! 96
Sometimes with this many wines, it’s hard to keep everything in the proper perspective….
My overall impressions of the 2010 hyphenated grand crus:
On Night Two, the Bienvenues and Criots flight was probably the best we have ever had. The Bienvenues had nice density and yet were very elegant, minerally, extremely well-balanced wines. Every wine in this flight (including the ringer 2010 Rochioli “Sweetwarer Vineyard” Chardonnay) was excellent and six of the eight wines in the flight got “top five” votes. This flight was also clearly superior to the Batards by group consensus.
The Batard flight was depressing compared to the delightful flight of BBM and Criots that really rocketed everyone’s expectations. The biggest problem was that two of the wines were advanced and one (Leflaive Batard) was outright oxidized – the only outright oxidized wine we experienced among 80 different 2010 wines. There were lots of green apple aromas and flavors and only three wines exhibited any discernable level of floral aromas or citrus flavors. The wines seemed thicker, and definitely more dull across the board than the Criots/BBM flight. I found only two wines that were really exciting from this flight – the Fabien Coche Batard (for the second consecutive year) and the Ramonet (but it took quite a while to come together.)
Lucky for us, the two Chevalier flights (15 different Chevalier Montrachets plus an incredible ringer) got us back on track. These bottles were much more in line with our high expectations for 2010. Most of the Chevaliers were elegant, well-balanced wines but several had more density or fat than normal. The best ones reminded me of the 1999s but with far fewer premox problems.
The truly stunning wine of the night was the Colin-Morey Chassagne En Remilly – one of the two ringers. I knew that once we changed to truly blind voting a few years ago that sooner or later one of the ringers would end up being the number one wine of the night. We came close a few years ago with David Ramey’s remarkable 2007 Ramey Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay, which finished second overall among some spectacular 2007 grand crus, but this time it was a landslide victory – 13 of us had the Chassagne En Remilly in the top five. The Chassagne En Remilly vineyard has long been of great interest to me because of its location immediately above Chevalier Montrachet. (It forms the bridge from Chassagne Montrachet to St. Aubin (the St. Aubin En Remilly vineyard, where Pierre-Yves has vines.). I’ve had a handful of wonderful examples of Chassagne En Remilly that screamed “Chevalier” and others that were terribly thin and hard and several oxidized ones too (the Colin-Deleger family are the largest owners in this vineyard.) Pierre-Yves Colin only made a Chassagne En Remilly in only three vintages – 2009, 2010 and 2011. It’s exceptionally hard to find. I had put away a bottle of the 2010 for this dinner, the only one I could find, expecting it would be a great ringer. No one had the slightest hint that this wasn’t a Chevalier. There were a lot of astonished looks and gasps of amazement when this bottle was unbagged. Afterward, I went back and carefully retasted the Colin-Morey Chevalier side by side with the Chassagne En Remlly. While the Colin-Morey Chevalier was a very nice wine that I’m happy I own, there was simply no question that the Chassagne En Remilly was the better wine.
Chassagne En Remilly and its illustrious neighbor Chevalier Montrachet
Cheers and Jeers:
Cheers go to –
• 2010 Bienvenues Batard – easily the best flight of Bienvenues we’ve ever had
• Colin-Morey – All of his wines were superb, but the Chassagne En Remilly was truly astonishing
• Francois Carillon – Francois and his brother Jacques divided up the family vineyards and parted company. Francois’ first Chevalier Montrachet, made from purchased grapes, was truly stunning. The 2010 Chevalier was in a completely different league from his 2010 Puligny 1ers, that I didn’t find all that exciting.
• Jean-Marc Pillot – Since 2004 Jean-Marc Pillot has produced truly top level Chevalier Montrachet year after year.
• Marc Morey – Another producer who has very quietly produced stunningly good Chevalier and Batard for the past several years (sadly the Domaine stopped producing Chevalier after 2012, as I think they lost the lease for those grapes. [Thanks to Brian Gilp for pointing out that Marc’s granddaughter Sabine Mollard is running the Domaine today.]
Jeers Go To -
• Henri Boillot – The disastrous performance we saw on night one continued into night two. We had six Boillot wines over two nights and only one of them – the Bienvenues Batard – was not horribly flawed. The Bienvenues showed why Boillot can be so frustrating, because this was a super BBM. But one sound bottle out of six doesn’t make it by any standard.
• Domaine Leflaive - The one outright oxidized 2010 was Domaine Leflaive Batard
• Prieur – I have repeatedly read reports claiming that Prieur has supposedly turned things around but every year their wines turn out to be suffering from premox.
Sadly, the three problem children from a premox perspective were exactly the ones I had anticipated before the dinner.
Once again, we had no problems of any kind with the DIAM-sealed bottles.
!