As many of you already know, each year in February and March I host a series of white burgundy vintage appraisal and oxidation check dinners in Los Angeles. We taste the vintage which is then 7.5 years from the date of harvest, and we usually taste 60 to 75 of the top wines from the vintage over the course of three nights. As we usually do, we attempted to include all of the top examples from each appellation. The one difference this year is that I’m very late in getting the notes posted about the dinners.
This was our thirteenth consecutive year of holding these dinners and this year the vintage was 2010. For the 2010 vintage, we were back to our usual three night format.
On Wednesday February 7, 2018, fourteen of us gathered in the Gold Room at Valentino to taste thirty-two wines from Chablis, Meursault and Corton Charlemagne (four flights of eight wines each). All of the wines were served single blind and all of the voting takes place completely blind (with individual written ballots) with the attendees ranking their top five wines by bottle number.
We needed 448 stems for the burgundies – and there aren’t many restaurants that can manage that. Valentino’s wine director, Paul Sherman, handled everything flawlessly as usual. The dinners at Valentino were planned by Giuseppe Mollica, Valentino’s director of special events, and the service was top notch as always.
The Gold Room at Valentino Before the Event – It takes stems in overwhelming numbers
Giuseppe Mollica [L] and Paul Sherman [R]
Valentino, which is owned by Pierro Selvaggio, has been one of Los Angeles’ premier Italian restaurants for several decades. It has been well known for its Wine Spectator Grand Award winning wine cellar as well as its Italian regional and Sicilian cuisine. Unfortunately, Valentino recently announced that they will close at the end of the year, so this years’ dinners will be the last for us at Valentino. I’m sad they’re closing. It’s been a favorite of mine for a long time.
The wines and food courses are set forth below.
CHAMPAGNE and APPETIZERS
Branzino & Enoki Mushroom Rolls, Frico, Grilled Pizza, Eggplant Cotoletta, Calamaretti Fritti
2002 Philipponat Clos de Goisses
Between light and medium gold; very round sweet citrust aromas and a touch of toast – really nice but not ultra-dry style; very nice, rounded citrus flavors with just a hint of toastiness like the best Krugs 94
FLIGHT ONE – CHABLIS
Warm King Crab Salad With Cannellini Beans And Citrus Essence
1 [2010 Fevre Chablis Preuses]
Light to medium gold color; citrus peel aromas; steely, this has the green fruit flavor that I associate with Preuses; light oyster shell minerality on the finish. Group Rank: Tied for 12th , 5 points (1/0/0/0/0) 94
2 [2010 Dauvissat Chablis Preuses]
Just short of medium gold color; showing some oak, and otherwise not that much aroma at first; light lemony fruit but much more texture. The texture and depth are pretty nice. This got a little more toasty over time but showed a little more depth of the lemony fruit. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last) , 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 94|92
3 [2010 Raveneau Chablis Valmur]
Between light and medium gold color; aromas of oyster shell and leechee fruit; a very viscous, elegant wine with some minerals on the finish. Group Rank: Tied for 20th, 1 point (0/0/0/0/1) 93
4 [2010 Fevre Chablis Clos]
Light to medium gold; light floral, lemon oil and oyster shell aromas; bright citrus, but almost buttery texture and very elegant and long on the palate. My favorite of the first flight by a narrow margin over #6. Group Rank: 10th , 8 points (0/1/0/1/2) 94+
5 [2010 Dauvissat Chablis Clos]
Medium gold color; citrus and oyster shell aromas; very viscous, only okay acidity, much less interesting than the first four wines. A few people liked this more than I did. Group Rank: Tied for 12th, 5 points (0/0/0/2/1) 92
6 [2010 Raveneau Chablis Clos]
Almost medium gold; aromas of oyster shell and fresh lime; minerally Chablis flavors but on the sweeter side with lemon-lime background; a very opulent wine. Five of thirteen votes for best in flight. Group Rank: 3rd, 20 points (2/1/2/0/0) 94
7 [2010 Raveneau Montee Du Tonnerre]
Light gold color; light floral and citrus aromas; elegant, good minerality; this is lighter in texture, but quite long with just a touch of youthful bitterness at the end. Group Rank: 15th, 4 points (0/1/0/0//0) 93+
8 [2010 Raveneau Blanchots]
Between light and medium gold; very light green apple aroma with some minerality; very bright flavors and a nice finish. Group Rank: 16th, 3 points (0/0/1/0//0) 93
FLIGHT TWO – MEURSAULT 1er
Linguine With Sea Scallops Ragu
9 [2010 Bouchard Meursault Perrieres [DIAM]]
Light gold color; very little aroma initially, then light citrus; viscous, very concentrated lemony flavors and a spicy finish which is unusual for Meursault. Group Rank: Tied for 16th, 3 points (0/0/0/1/1) 92
10 [2010 Girardin Meursault Perrieres]
Almost medium gold color; floral and light citrus aromas; very attractive citrus flavors, medium bodied, nice acidity; a somewhat tropical fruit (pineapple) note on the finish. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 93
11 [2010 Roulot Meursault 1er (Clos de Boucheres)]
Light yellow color; floral and citrus aromas; very bright, lots of grip here and quite concentrated citrus and some underlying minerals; some youthful acidity in the finish. Pretty young and needs time. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last) , 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 94
12 [2010 H Boillot Meursault Genevrieres]
Medium gold color; some green apple aroma notes and a touch of toast; a fairly fat texture for Meursault and tastes a bit like apple cider; buttery element on the finish; it’s clearly advanced to me but the group consensus was “slightly advanced.” Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last) , 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 92-Advanced
13 [2010 Latour-Giraud Meursault Genevrieres Cuvee des Pierre]
Between light and medium gold; aromas of menthol and light citrus; bright, lemon pudding flavor, highly concentrated with medium-plus density; pretty powerful wine for Meursault, but I loved it.; very nice citrus and minerals finish; My favorite of this flight and my No. 3 wine of the night. Terrific. Group Rank: 7th, 15 points (0/2/2/0/1) 95
One of my favorite wines of the evening
14 [2010 Lafon Meursault Genevrieres]
Between light and medium gold color; bright citrus and calcium note that’s not quite oyster shell but something akin to it; very bright citrus and a lemon pastry element which comes across as layered; ultimately gives the impression like the previous wine of being very concentrated. Superb stuff. My No. 4 wine of the night. Group Rank: 2nd, 23 points (2/1/1/3/0) 95
15 [2010 Roulot Meursault Charmes]
Between light and medium gold color; this one has oyster shell and lemon oil aromas; viscous, lemon pastry flavors; there are some notable phenols on the back of the palate that sort of dry the finish out a bit. However, I suspect that this may be a potentially great bottle with another two or three years of age. Group Rank: 9th, 11 points (0/1/1/2/0) 94+
16 [2010 Lafon Meursault Charmes]
Between light and medium gold color; aromas of white flowers; concentrated sweet lemon pastry flavors with medium body. This wine also has a lots of phenols on the finish – even more than #15, and the phenols have a touch of bitterness. Could these be from the same winemaker? Seems to have an upside but less clear than #15. Group Rank: 19th , 2 points (0/0/0/0/2) 92+?
FLIGHT THREE – MEURSAULT PERRIERES
Risotto With Lobster And Mixed Seafood – This stuff tastes incredible. When they serve this the room goes quiet and everyone digs into the Risotto.
17 [2010 Germain Meursault Perrieres]
Between light and medium gold color; sweet citrus and tropical fruit aromas; fairly concentrated but two-dimensional, medium bodied flavors; some elegance here but doesn’t show much minerality or the usual MP markers. A very nice wine, but not a great MP. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last) , 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 92
18 [2010 H Boillot Meursault Perrieres]
Medium gold color; tropical fruit, lemon pudding and hint of coconut in the aromas – odd; this is super-concentrated, with Coche Corton density and weight which makes no sense for a Meursault unless something went wrong; some of the tasters are really jazzed about the thickness and the density, but I’m skeptical. After about ninety minutes of air it was like this bottle fell off a cliff, it was still fat and dense, but the flavors were virtually gone and aromas had largely disappeared. A highly controversial wine which some tasters really liked. Group Rank: Tied for 5th, 17 points (2/1/1/0/0) 93|90?
19 [2010 Colin-Morey Meursault Perrieres]
Close to medium gold color; aromas of intense lemon pastry; very viscous texture; highly concentrated lemon pasty, but a bit simple and lots of phenols in the finish again. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last) , 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 92
20 [2010 Lafon Meursault Perrieres]
Closer to medium gold, but maybe a shade or two lighter than #19; citrus and minerals aromas – much truer to form than the first three wines; citrus flavors with good intensity but a touch of lemon peel bitterness in the mid-palate; when it rolls over to the finish, there is surprising richness and width on the finish. Group Rank: Tied for 16th , 3 points (0/0/1/0/0) 93+
21 [2010 Vincent Dancer Meursault Perrieres]
Light gold color; beautiful citrus and white flowers aromas; very elegant wine, some key lime flavors, but lighter bodied than the other wines in this flight; it’s lean, but definitely an MP; exquisite minerally finish. My No. 1 wine of the night. Group Rank: 1st, 29 points (4/0/2/1/1) 95
The Group Favorite from Night One
22 [2010 Roulot Meursault Perrieres]
Very light color between yellow and light gold; aromas of white flowers and citrus; bright lemon-lime citrus flavors which are incredibly elegant and nuanced; long minerals and citrus finish. Another wine that really says MP. This was a wonderful wine to compare with #21. My No. 2 wine of the night. Group Rank: 4th, 19 points (0/3/1/2/0) 95
23 [2010 JM Gaunoux Meursault Perrieres]
Medium gold color; blood orange citrus aromas and an almost Riesling-like element in the aromas; powerful citrus flavors with very good acidity and dry but minerally finish. The very different or unusual aromas raise questions. Will this improve with time or go south? [N.B. I had this three times within a year of release and really liked every bottle. I’m wondering whether this bottle is representative as I have several more in my cellar.] Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 92+?
24 [2010 Grivault Meursault Clos de Perrieres]
Between light and medium gold color; white flowers and lemon oil aromas; elegant, sweet lemon-lime flavors with some phenols on the finish again. Very nice but not great wine. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last), 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 92
FLIGHT FOUR – CORTON CHARLEMAGNE
Pan Roasted Napa Quail With Parmesan Polenta
25 [2010 H. Boillot Corton Charlemagne]
Medium gold color; fresh apricot aromas; lots of richness on the palate, apricot flavors and lots of richness – clearly advanced and soon to be oxidized. Three of the group (me included) thought this was advanced. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last) , 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 92-Advanced
26 [2010 Bouchard Corton Charlemagne [DIAM] ]
Light gold color; a mix of green apple and citrus aromas; very concentrated green apple and pineapple fruit, but doesn’t really come across as Corton Charlemagne; okay finish. Group Rank: Tied for 12th , 5 points (1/0/0/0/0) 93
27 [2010 Faiveley Corton Charlemagne]
Fairly deep gold color – pretty alarming; apricot aromas and a hint of toast; rich apricot flavors make no sense in the context of healthy Corton Charlemagne – this isn’t dessert wine. Very obviously advanced. Five members of the group (including me) thought this was advanced. Group Rank: Tied for 20th, 1 points (0/0/0/0/1) 88-Advanced
28 [2010 Javillier Corton Charlemagne [DIAM] ]
Very light gold color; some pear and apple aromas with some floral highlights; bright green apple flavors with some intensity and really great acidity; very nice green apple and minerally finish. My fifth ranked wine of the night. Group Rank: Tied for 5th, 17 points (0/2/1/1/2) 94
29 [2010 Vougeraie Corton Charlemagne]
Between light and medium gold color; lemon oil and citrus aromas; intense, oily, lemon pudding flavors but with a slightly bitter phenol element on the back end; really good acidity here; a bit tight on the finish with some minerals peeking through. This might improve with another year or two of age. [N.B. Pierre Vincent, the winemaker for this wine moved to Leflaive in January 2017] Group Rank: 8th, 13 points (1/1/1/0/1) 93+
]30 [2010 Colin-Morey Corton Charlemagne]
Between light and medium gold; but a little lighter than #29; corked aromas. Group consensus: corked. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last) , 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) DQ-Corked
31 [2010 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne]
Light gold color; lemon oil and almost toasty elements in the aromas; some green apple but really bitter on the mid-palate and finish; Bad news for a 2010 in this group. Group Rank: Tied for 22nd (last) , 0 points (0/0/0/0/0) 88
32 [2010 Girardin Corton Charlemagne Quintessence]
Between light and medium gold color; green apple and lemon oil aromas; strong lemon oil and almost bitter phenols on the mid-palate; and finish. An impression of power somewhat tempered by the phenolic finish. Group Rank: 11th, 6 points (1/0/0/0/1) 93
DESSERT COURSE
Bis Di Mele Con Salsa Cannella: Apple Torte & Apple Fritters With Cinnamon Crème Anglaise
Our resident photographic expert, Andy Gavin, also makes some fabulous homemade Gelatos. Here’s the one he brought for night one.
1989 Chateau Rieussec
Unfortunately, I got tied up with the administrative details and tabulations and didn’t get to taste this. The wine looked beautiful in the bottle.
My overall impressions on the wines from Night One:
I found the 2010 vintage more uneven and probably less impressive overall than I had expected – at least for the Cote de Beaune wines.
The 2010 Chablis as a group were marvelous. They have prototype Chablis aromas (lots of oyster shell and green fruit) with excellent Chablis minerality/liquid rocks in the finishes. The surprise was that this came with about 50% more depth of fruit than most of the classic Chablis years. This is a vintage in a style that everyone can love – similar to 2002 but with better acidity and abundant minerality. There were lots of smiles over these wines and no one had any doubts, as we sometimes do when tasting Chablis at 7.5 years.
The Meursault wines were very uneven, and in some cases the wines seemed totally atypical and excessively ripe for Meursault. Three or four of the wines had Corton Charlemagne weight and density with none of the normal Meursault aroma or flavor markers. These bottles gave the impression of being too sweet and way too fat for Meursault. Since I’m a classic Meursault lover, I wasn’t pleased. While there were a handful of really stellar Meursaults (e.g. Vincent Dancer MP, Roulot MP, Lafon Genevrieres, Latour-Giraud Genevrieres Cuvee des Pierre, and Roulot Charmes) overall I preferred the flight of 2009 Meursault Perrieres we tasted a year ago, which were exceptional, to the flight of 2010 Meursault Perrieres. That’s certainly not what I would have expected going into the dinner. I subsequently found out from Jean-Marc Roulot that there was definitely botrytis in the 2010 vintage, although this is something that wasn’t discussed in the initial reviews. See my comments below in one of the subsequent posts.
The Corton Charlemagne flight was group’s least favorite flight on night one. Two of the wines were advanced, one was corked and the BDM seemed quite off to me with an excessively bitter phenols finish. Overall this flight of wines didn’t impress me. Some were notably sweet, even for Corton, and the acidity didn’t seem to match the ripeness and sweetness. Only the Javillier seemed to be a classic Corton.
Over the last three flights, the wines were riper and lower in acid than I would have expected at this stage based on the wines I tasted on release.
PREMOX REPORT
The overall level of oxidized and advanced wines is probably a record low for the first night.
Group Consensus DC Notes
Corked 1 of 32 3.1% 1 of 32 3.1%
Advanced: 1 of 32 3.1% 3 of 32 9.4%
Oxidized 0 of 32 0.0% 0 of 32 0.0%
Either 1 of 32 3.1% 3 of 32 9.4%
DIAM Closures - 5 bottles – none corked, advanced or oxidized
PHOTO CREDIT: Andy Gavin Thanks Andy!!