2012 François Gaunoux Meursault Le Clos de Tavaux- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (8/29/2018)
First time with this producer…Francois is father to Jean-Michel Gaunoux, who’s wines seem to be more mainstream, and runs the centuries old Estate with daughter Claudine. While I was looking for info on these wines, I noticed there isn’t much, and came across an interesting note that Francois doesn’t let critics into the cellar to taste their wines, and doesn’t give barrel samples…and pretty much doesn’t really want just anyone to buy his wines. “No soup for you” vigneron. Not in it for profit, just to stay true to their roots. Hmmm…no wonder Jean-Michel went out on his own? On to the bottle…
Hmmm…this is different? Very fresh and clean…more like a grenache blanc or a non ox Jura? Somewhat sweet peach tea, waxy banana skin, yellow apples…ripe and almost oily orchard fruit…it’s really nice fruit? Zero match strike reduction(which I LOVE in my white burgs)…not much minerality…maybe some chalk dust…blanched almonds…lees…enough lemon/orange citrus acidity to keep this from being cloying. Really soft and waxy…kind of Raveneaux-esk. At first I’m kind of repulsed, as this says NOTHING of Meursault…but it gains on you…as it warms there IS some limestone minerality…some saline crushed stone…pretty floral perfume…kind of reminds me when I first had a 05 Arnaud Ente Referts? Too clean and stripped, yet it gained. A Monopole village wine…intriguing, and I really don’t know how to think on this one? I need another sample of maybe a cru to really gauge this producer? For now, this could go either way. (90 pts.)
Yea I saw that. Maybe that’s why this wine tasted so different to me…no wood? Wonder how the red’s are?
So, William, Domaine Michel Gaunoux is Francois’ brother? Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux is Francois’ son?
I had several bottles of 02 Francois Gaunoux Volnay Chenes, they were great. I am holding on to one lone bottle. I think the Feminine red berry character of Volnay worked very well seeing no wood.
I’ve gotten a few offers on this producers 2016s from JJBuckley this year. they seem to be either impressed or pushing them pretty hard. probably a combination of both.
Third bottle…a true joy! Lots of chalky limestone, mineral salinity, fresh citrus squeeze. There’s an intriguing tropical brightness in this wine that’s unique to the Meursault’s that I’ve had.
Domaine François Gaunoux in Meursault, and Domaine Michel Gaunoux in Pommard are the domaines of the two sons of Henri Gaunoux who worked either side of the second world war. Jean-Michel Gaunoux, began working with his father, François, in 1978 at Domaine François Gaunoux. In 1990, Jean-Michel split with his father, François, starting a domaine with vineyard parcels from his mother’s side of the family – this became Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux, also in Meursault (near to Antoine Jobard) hence, the two Meursault domaines called Gaunoux. François is in his 80s now…
Claudine is very happy to welcome critics at the domaine.
The wines start racier than the norm in most vintages due to being raised in stainless, but after 5-6 years in bottle (I don’t drink many, but I’ve also not yet met a poxed one, despite natural cork) they begin to round out and show more depth. Funny, the reverse of most Meursault that tend to add tension with age! Like the whites, there’s also no oak for the reds - I find that for both colours, when young, they are more open and impressive on the second day after opening…
Had a bunch of his wines back in the day, both this and his Volnay and Pommand–not Lastbottle but another flash sale site used to push them–and I was never vey fond of any of them. Often they were slightly unclean (maybe why site had them?), but I also never found the depth, purity or complexity I seek out in Burgundy.
Of course, Joshua, but as they destem their reds and use stainless, so it’s hard to know where unclean might come from. In your timeframe, I’ve had a few 09s and they were fine, the only 10 that I can remember was a Gouttes d’Or which was young and angular - and that was only a year ago.
2012 François Gaunoux Meursault Le Clos de Tavaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (9/4/2022)
Last bottle of the lot…and going out on top! Super showing with this one…aged honeycomb and waxy extract…just LOVE the chalky limestone and saline crushed rock minerality in this…fruit is creamy and full of ripe orchard fruits, drizzled with honey…tropical exotics…cut with lemon/grapefruit squeeze citrus…some sour tart on the long and chalky finish. Of course…now I wish I had more! (93 pts.)
