Wine Impressions - 8-27-18
Bubbles:
N/V Jean-Charles Boisset, No. 69 - a touch of sweetness in an otherwise clean and crisp Champagne; nice but not exceptional.
Whites:
2016 Cave Dog, Godello - the volume in the mouth is really nice with plenty of acid to keep it focused. A beautiful wine made with integrity.
2016 San Felo, Vermentino Le Stoppie - Tuscan Vermentino that is broad and dense and slightly sweet, says 13% abv but seems bigger. Better as it comes to room temp and gets air but it still seems too big to me.
2017 Valenti, Etna Bianco Enrico IV - Carricante from the volcanic soils of Mt. Etna - this is nuanced, light on its feet, energetic in the mouth and 100% delicious; there’s a florality that never gets vegetal, sweet fruit that still has a savory edge, perfect balance, complexity and an overall feminine delivery that sends me to the store to buy some. About $22 SRP and worth more. I now have an inkling why some folks are planting this grape stateside for the future. Exceptional.
2014 Cowan Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc - it’s been about a year since I’ve tasted this and it has completely integrated and become a mixed stone fruit version of the grape; no grass or cat pee but also no stones. Easy to drink by itself.
Pinks:
N/V Casata Monfort, Pinot Grigio Rose - quite sharp and not much flavor.
2015 Moccagatta, Rose Monte J- made from Barbera and Dolcetto; this is lovely - round, full flavored yet still bright and clean; easy to drink by itself and retains its profile even as it warms in the glass.
Reds:
2015 Bedrock, Syrah Hudson Vineyard South, T’n’S Blocks - a whole big mouthful of wine with plenty of olive and earth tones and all the structure to go awhile. No doubt it’s from CA but no doubt it’s good. Thanks Mark.
2014 Stratus, Cabernet Franc - from Niagara-on-the-Lake with medium weight sweet fruit, no green and easy to drink; even has a little savory going on. Junior varsity team but a starter.
2014 Sella Mosca, Cannonou di Sardegna - I’m not a Grenache guy but this was tasty and had more of the savoriness of the island than the cherry flavors of the fruit. I’m not going to go buy it, but if you’re pouring . . .
2014 Peju, Merlot Napa Valley - not the worst Merlot I’ve had but the oak mis-shapes it and sours the palate. Others enjoyed it more.
2016 Vajra, Langhe - a blend of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barbera that comes across with more body and bass notes than expected; there is some richness and good concentration here and flavors that I like - without artifice.
2009 Masciarelli, Montepulciano Iskra - dusty dry, light bodied and while I appreciate its savory character, it lacks the fruit I like.
2014 Ridge, Lytton Springs - disjointed and soured by the oak treatment; just nasty and did not get better over time.
2012 Campo Viejo, Rioja Reserva - mostly Tempranillo, 18 months in barrel and 18 months in bottle before release; leads with earthiness and some red fruit, with air it rounds out and delivers a mid-weight, rather old school Rioja but without much intensity. Better with food. $14 SRP.
2017 Dirty and Rowdy, Mourvèdre Unfamiliar - a lightweight yet full flavored rendition of this grape. For some, this will be a quaffer; for some, less than that; for me, a wonderful way to augment dinner - intense but easy to drink, complex but not confounding, and, all the charm the grape can offer. As good a $23 red as you’ll find in the market and a joy to drink.
Best, jim