Tercero library tasting with Larry in OC

Eighteen Orange County wine lovers convened at The Winery Restaurant in Newport Beach last Saturday to do a library tasting of Tercero wines with Larry Schaffer himself.

After gathering at the upstairs bar overlooking the harbor, we moved into our own room, where we tried 15 Tercero wines alongside a multi-course dinner. Equally importantly, Larry spoke to us about each flight of wines, including the interesting decisions and techniques that went into making them. It was equal parts hedonism, education and camaraderie.

I am not good at the interspersing of photos into the post the way that the pros like Brig Campbell do it, but I’ll loop back and post photos in a reply below. The wines are listed in the order we tasted them, all but the first and last wine in vertical pairs.

2017 Aberration. The 2017 version of this wine is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Carignane, in all stainless steel, designed to be a served young and chilled. The wine is grapey, with leaf, pit and skin flavors. It is in the general style of Beaujolais Nouveau and Dolcetto, but a bit smoother and less raw tasting. It’s a nice afternoon or picnic wine in an old fashioned way, probably much better with foods than alone.

2010 Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard. A perfect light color which was seemingly unchanged since bottling and sealing under a screw cap. Although the cap had perfectly resisted any oxidation, the wine had clearly aged and developed in a desirable way, with a pleasing petrol and truffle character to the nose. Tart pineapple, melon, peach, white flowers, and a beautiful light white spice on the long, lemony finish. One of my favorites out of a great lineup, both delicious and contemplative.

2014 Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard. Similar in most ways to the excellent 2010, just at an earlier state of maturation. Just the lightest notion of petrol to the nose, more volume to the tropical fruit, yet remaining light on its feet and dry. Again, the lovely layer of white pepper on the long finish.

2013 Verbiage Blanc. Verbiage Blanc is a Rhone blend of Roussane, Grenache Blanc and Viognier. This has nice richness and weight, some waxiness and almond skin, and ripe tropical and citrus fruit. This strikes a nice balance as a weightier white wine yet with sufficient cut to keep it in balance. This is probably a white to serve at cellar temperature. It probably has many good years ahead.

2014 Verbiage Blanc. Larry said the 2014 blends the same three varieties, but in 2014 it was about 2/3rds Roussanne. Accordingly, this has more weight to it than the 2013, but it avoids any heat or fuminess. Sean Kennedy noted a nice mint dimension lurking behind the peach and banana fruits. Again, a wine to serve around cellar temperature, and this probably will improve in the next several years.

2015 Mourvedre Rose Camp 4 Vineyard. Very pale, with light and slightly bitter fruit, hints of some watermelon and underripe strawberry, and a light spice on the finish. This was a little more stern and savory than I probably prefer, but we all have our individual sweet spots along the rose ripeness spectrum.

2017 Mourvedre Rose Camp 4 Vineyard. This was quite fun, with a bit more fruit, watermelon, peach and juicy citrus. More of a fruit driven experience today, and possibly becoming a more complete wine in the next summer or two. Larry said he harvests the Mourvedre for his roses just a little above or below 20 Brix.

2015 Cinsault. Larry explained that Cinsault berries are extremely large for vinifera grapes, and they accordingly produce wines with lighter color and less concentration, yet he had tasted very old Cinsault wines from South Africa which had aged quite well. The 2015 was 12% alcohol. It had tart red cherry, tart strawberry, cherry pit, some olive and leafiness. A pleasing spice emerges on the finish. Quite an interesting and cerebral wine that would do best at the dinner table.

2016 Cinsault. Like all of Larry’s reds in the last several vintages, this is 100% whole cluster and foot stomped. This checks in at a stunning 10.8% alcohol, and yet it doesn’t lack for ripeness or pleasure. This has a brighter, sunnier cherry fruit as compared to the 2015, with juicy citrus fruit and acids towards the finish. It’s so interesting to taste these two side by side, the 2015 a little brooding and serious, the 2016 playful and extroverted.

2010 Verbiage Rouge. Verbiage Rouge is Larry’s take on a Chateauneuf du Pape blend, and it’s a bright, red fruited, minerally, spicy take on it. This seems to be fresh light on its feet at age eight, and it avoids the roasted flavors, oak and heaviness that too often are characteristic of CdP in recent years. This was one of my favorites of the night, and another testament to how Larry’s wines, owing in some part to the screw caps, retain a beautiful freshness even as they age in desirable ways.

2014 Verbiage Rouge. This was similar in character to the excellent 2010, with a little more intensity and volume, though still completely avoiding any heaviness.

2007 Grenache Watch Hill Vineyard. This was one of Larry’s first reds when he was getting started, and it’s now at a lovely, older stage of its development. Pleasantly herbal, with pretty and smooth dark fruits that have receded towards the background, giving the spotlight to the mineral and leathery dimensions. Very nice, but probably time to drink up.

2013 Grenache Watch Hill Vineyard. As you might suspect, my note taking was suffering a bit by this stage. I noted that this wine had a great intensity of dark fruit, leaf and spice, and was one of my favorites of the evening.

2006 Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard. This was from Larry’s inaugural Tercero vintage. I’ve had a few bottles of this maybe 2-3 years ago, and they were interesting in an aged, quite petrolly style. I think on Saturday, these retained some interest and character, but I think they’ve passed the drinking window for my tastes.

It was quite an excellent tasting, showcasing the variety, balance and age worthiness of Larry’s portfolio. I strongly encourage my fellow Berserkers to seek out Larry and his wines on your journey ahead.

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WOW! Just…wow!

Very impressed with the line-up, no “corked” bottles (obviously), and the wines’ longevity speak of some skill by the winemaker!

I have had more Grenache Blanc from Spain than anywhere else, so the emergence of petrol notes with time is a newer concept to me.

That “aberration” sounds good, but the Cinsaut would be more to my liking.

Great notes and pictures, Chris!!!

Great notes, Chris. Thanks for taking the time to put them together.

Petrol is pretty common. Comes from a compound called TDN.

Here’s some more info:


“1, 1, 6, -trimethyl-1,2-dihydronapthalene (TDN) is a member of the C13-norisoprenoids family, which are a minor group of chemical component of wines, but exist in all internationally important varieties. TDN is a compound that is associated with both positive and negative attributes in both white and red wines, commonly known as the kerosene or petrol aroma in Riesling wines. At low levels TDN is desirable and delicious, but at a high concentration, TDN can dominate the wine and become an off character that exerts negative sensory attributes to the wine, incurring consumer rejection (Sacks et al, 2012). TDN has a sensory threshold of 2ug/L. It exist in highest quantities in aged Riesling wines, reaching as high 50ug/L but is also widely prevalent in Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot noir and Cabernet Sauvignon at levels close to its threshold, with exception of 6.4ug/L in Cabernet Franc. TDN is considered to be potential degradation products from β-carotene and lutein.”

Excellent! So glad you guys and gals all got together with Larry and had an experience like this. Really jazzed to read about it.

I will pop in my notes from my visit with him a month ago for some counterpoint. I did try some of these same wines. Only sad that you lot did not get to try the crazy-good Mourvedre that made the top-25 overall of my final listing from the California trip. These were tasted at about 10 am, when Larry and I like to get together on these visits.

"2014 Tercero White Hawk Viognier

13.5%, 16 months in oak. Very light lilac and pear aromas. To taste, elegant and a real creamy aspect. A Viognier with real palate engagement.

2014 Tercero Verbiage Blanc

64% Roussanne, 24% Viognier, 12% Grenache Blanc. Nectarine and lanolin and honey notes—a sinuous nose. Slight & suave—it really has a demure presence about it that still has carry and involvement.

2013 Tercero Verbiage Blanc

This one was 40% roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc and 30% Viognier. Here, tiny plantain accents apple and florals. Smooth and does have depth. Definite peach pit fruit.

2014 Tercero Marsanne

He and I both love Marsanne. This is from the Camp 4 vineyard. 14.3% and 15 months in oak. Great sniffs of dry mustard, ginger and poached pear. In the mouth, still quite unformed but very promising. Full of linseed oil and honeycomb and a very fun pinball-spike at the midback that zaps the flavour up.

2016 Tercero Mourvedre Rose

Scents of cranberry and unripe watermelon. Usual tasty stuff, replays with true zest

2017 Tercero Mourvedre Rose

Pink grapefruit and raspberry with a tiny cinnamon dash in the nuzzie. This is su-PER. Sharpens your tongue with fantastic red fruit drive.

2017 Tercero Aberration

His play-around wines every year. This one is 40% Cinsault, 40% Grenache and 20% Carignane. All from Camp 4. Earthy red fruit combo, quite interesting. Still not much depth, but sharp with a crispness and shape.

2016 Tercero Aberration

This one was 100% Cab Franc and 100% whole cluster. Checked in at 12.1% Green walnut and a little tapenade in the bouquet. That’s quite delicious, so grippy but already integrating with blue and black fruit.

2016 Tercero Cinsault

Also 100% whole cluster, Larry describes this as his MTV Unplugged wine. 10 months in oak. Quite alluring strawberry, cherry and rhubarb waft up the glass. Reminds me of a barbera—plenty of acid and just-clinging structure to very red berry fruit.

2016 Tercero Carignane

12%, 10 months in oak. Cherry and a bit of coffee perhaps in the nuzzie. Replays and adds some cocoa and cedar. Good.

2013 Tercero Mourvedre

Of course he’s saved the best for last. I love it. The coffee grounds that I need to have in Mourvedre. Black cherry and blackberry and dark chocolate also have an aromatic say. Mm-mm. Scrumplicious. Highly powerful but it stays on beam with delectable chocolate-covered black cherry and a slice of cassis. An umami feel and a sense of place here. Entering stardom, will stay for 10 years."

A bientot,

Mike

good work, Counselor. I know most all of those happy faces and I am glad you could arrange this with Larry. Sorry to have missed it.

It was a great night! Thank you Chris for arranging the dinner. The food was fantastic and all of the wine showed really well. Thanks Larry for making the trek down to the OC and for all of the great wines. Pretty much all of the wines were drinking really well. I think Matt Mauldin said it best many years ago. He said that Tercero wines are all precise and almost perfect on the palate…I would completely agree. I started to take notes, but I got to talking to much and I stopped taking detailed notes. I was also able to take a few of the bottles home and I was able to check in with them the 2nd day. Here are my impressions…


2017 Aberration. I will be completely honest that I have never been a fan of this wine, but this is the best rendition yet. I really enjoyed it. This is a great sipper with a ton of precise fruit with good acid to match the fruit. A great start to the dinner.

2010 Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard. Petrol to start and took a while to show its stuff, but when it did, it was singing.

2014 Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard. In such a good spot with great acid and a round mid palate.

2013 Verbiage Blanc. Very balanced with a great mouth feel… It probably has many good years ahead.

2014 Verbiage Blanc. Pretty similar to the 13…both will age gracefully for years to come.

2015 Mourvedre Rose Camp 4 Vineyard. I didn’t get very much of this and was a bit shy to start and was dominated by the 17. This was really good on day 2 and showed great structure to continue to develop for a few years.

2017 Mourvedre Rose Camp 4 Vineyard. Ridiculous nose! I challenge anyone to find me a wine that has a prettier bouquet that this wine. BACK UP THE TRUCK!

2015 Cinsault. Great fruit and structure. A light drinker and would pair with anything.

2016 Cinsault. I’m currently drinking the rest of a bottle from the tasting and it is absolutely singing! Any of you Pinot lovers out there should search out this wine. It is very pinot like and drinking extremely fresh and has the structure to age for a bit. BACK UP THE TRUCK!

2010 Verbiage Rouge. Another wine that was singing that didn’t show much age at all. It went extremely well with my braised short rib.

2014 Verbiage Rouge. This was drinking extremely well. The wine had a great combination of structure and fruit, that will reward those who are patient.

2007 Grenache Watch Hill Vineyard. Co-wine of the night! A complete stunner. Completely balanced wine with a combination of great fruit and structure. For sure enjoyable now, but will continue to age gracefully for years to come. It did not change a bit the 2nd day…still fantastic.

2013 Grenache Watch Hill Vineyard. Man oh man…another great wine. By itself this wine is a really good wine, but it was dominated by the 07. I really liked this wine and will be buying some. BACK UP THE TRUCK!

2006 Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard. Co-wine of the night! I have had this wine quite a few times and this is the best I have tasted it. It had an unbelievable texture on the palate, with enough acid to balance the mid palate. I’m glad I still have 2 bottles left to follow. It did not change a bit the 2nd day…still fantastic and drinking well.

Thanks for the notes to everyone, quite the selection. Very Jelly… I will have to settle with trying to catch up with Larry at his appearances and K&L up north here…

Sean

I see a Tercero tasting at K&L in San Francisco on September 20th.

Larry- I need a tasting at K&L in Redwood City! (or Artisan Wine Depot in Mountain View)

Like Frank, I am sorry that I missed this fun event! Great job on the notes guys, I enjoyed reading them and looking at the photos.

Thanks for putting together the tasting notes and uploading the photos, Chris! It was a pleasure meeting you. I can see why Frank speaks so highly of you!

Frank and Viet, hope to see you two soon. [cheers.gif]

Just so you know? I just confirmed a tasting at the Redwood City store for Friday, September 21st. Bam!

Cheers

What a beast! [cheers.gif]

Thanks to Chris for organizing the event and Larry for his “Verbiage” and his wines. The Winery in once again provided a delightful meal and classy setting.

Although the notes are completely from memory, know that I paid close attention (when Robo wasn’t distracting me) and tried carefully to memorize everything that Dietz said about the wines.

2017 Aberration - Nice way to start the night and greet the group. Fun, bright fruit that had a nice chill that would pair well with the recent heat. No reason to stop and contemplate: just tip, gulp, swallow and smile.

2010 Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard - For lovers of diesel fuel, and I mean that as a compliment. Not much in common with it’s brother from another year, the adjacent 2010. The pungent petrol eventually receded, but didn’t distract from a fine acidic core and complex palate with citrus fruit. I would bet this still has several years of fuel in the tank.

2014 Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard - A study in contrast with the 2010 model parked next door. The nose was initially rather fruity, but eventually showed a slight whiff of petrol. The palate had a round texture that was sorta oily with some tropical tones. Although this bottle wouldn’t be considered a food wine on first look, it paired swimmingly with creamy shrimp/scallop risotto. Likely an earlier drink.

2013 Verbiage Blanc - Pretty sure this is a blend, but I’m too lazy to look up which grapes. I’ll let others with more time do the research. A well-made if not compelling wine that was easy to drink and made me happy. A crowd pleaser that would offend no one.

2014 Verbiage Blanc - Maybe a better, stronger, faster version (a la Steve Austin?) of the 2013 Verbiage tasted concurrently. A smooth yet spunky blend that I could see myself regularly pulling from the home cooler on nights after a tough day at work.

2015 Mourvedre Rose Camp 4 Vineyard - I love rose based on either Mourvedre, but his version was more delicate and mild-mannered than I would have anticipated. On its own or at the beginning of the night, I bet this more subtle bottle might shine.

2017 Mourvedre Rose Camp 4 Vineyard - Based on Larry’s recount of the excellent adventure getting this wine into barrel, we weren’t sure what to think other than he worked his ass off to make it happen. Big nose with a slight spritz on the palate that didn’t distract from the clean and tangy Mourvedre fruit. Good work, and better wine!

2015 Cinsault - There’s a reason Cinsault is a blending grape. Not because it doesn’t make good wine, and this wine was good, but because it doesn’t make great wine without a supporting cast. That said, this was a good wine that would be a crowd pleaser yet leave us wine geeks searching for more. Medium-bodied and four-square, with lots to like, if not a lot to love.

2016 Cinsault - As with the 2015 Cinsault, this was a good wine that made me wish I could add a dash of Grenache or Mourvedre to liven the party. An easy wine that would be perfect to drink during intense conversations or group settings, which is a compliment. I would drink it, but I’m not sure I would actually buy it.

2010 Verbiage Rouge - This sat for awhile in the glass and seemed to open and expand over about 20 minutes. Medium-bodied yet with a broad palate of dense dark cherry. Balanced and structured with a subdued intensity. With some air time, easy to enjoy.

2014 Verbiage Rouge - Needed a bit of time to air, and once it did, grabbed my attention. A mid-weight wine that punches in the heavy weight class, with dark cherry fruit and zippy acidity. Enough structure and complexity to go the distance. Maybe my WOTN?

2007 Grenache Watch Hill Vineyard - Still young at 11 years, and although it evolved in the glass, it still seemed to be holding something back. Dense, blue/red fruit with fading tannins. Not quite my WOTN, but it might be at a future tasting (assuming I’ll be invited back).

2013 Grenache Watch Hill Vineyard - As with the 2014 Verbiage Blanc, the Steve Austin version of the 2007 Grenache (bigger, stronger, faster). Broad and dense with dark cherry/blue fruit, fine tannins and youthful structure. Improved with air, which made it enjoyable now, but based on the 2007 version it will improve and soften with several more years.

2006 Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard - Late harvest, sweet wine. I love me some RS at the end of the night, even though it may anger the no/low-dose gods. The sweetness here was subtle and not cloying, with a touch of acid. Maybe a bit past it’s peak, but maybe not, who knows since I was a bit tipsy at this point.

My notes would include all the things stated above, so I will just say it was a great evening of wine, food and people. It was nice meeting all of the OC Was for the first time and look forward to more gatherings in the near future. Thanks again to Chris for organizing and Larry for offering his grape juice! Cheers

Excellent! See you there!

I just wanted to chime in and thank Chris and Joanne for putting this ‘retrospective’ dinner on - and for all of the folks who attended it. As I mentioned that night, it was definitely more of a ‘family and friends’ dinner rather than a usual ‘winemaker dinner’. I have known many of those in attendance for a decade - and a few even longer than that - and have always enjoyed spending time, though it tends to be much too infrequently. And it was great to have some new faces in there - and integrate some of my wine club members to the OC crowd.

It was humbling to pour many of these wines that night - the wines stretched from my very first tercero harvest in 2006 to my most recent one in 2017. And even though we did taste 15 or 16 wines, it was tough to pick out which pairs to present. You’ll note that none of my Marsannes, Roussannes, Mourvedres or Syrahs were present. I guess that gives me plenty to work with for the NEXT gathering!

I thought the wines showed well - and I think that they showed my ‘evolution’ as a winemaker. One of the toughest things in this biz is that it’s way too easy to get ‘categorized’ based on a vintage or two, but just as with music or art, the hope is that an ‘evolution’ occurs as one becomes more ‘proficient’ in their craft - and as one becomes ‘more comfortable in their own skin’. For instance, there was no way I would have done an 11% Cinsaut 10 years ago - just didn’t ‘make sense’ to me . . .but now it certainly does.

Thanks again - cheers!

Hey Larry…I bet either us or Brian & Lisa would happily host one of these in West LA (once she’s recovered, of course). But I don’t think we’d let you get away with zero Mourvedre :wink: