2002 DIDIER DAGUENEAU SILEX POUILLY-FUME

Our lunch group deviated from our usual big and bold red wine theme to explore the wines from Loire. I deviated from my usual note taking role and just sat back and enjoyed the fellowship, food and wines.

There were a few remarkable wines that I remember enough to make note of so here’s another one:

2002 DIDIER DAGUENEAU SILEX POUILLY-FUME- I met Didier, “the wild man of Pouilly”, on a few occasions as he visited the Santa Barbara area and friends including Jim Clendenen, Fred Brander and Doug Margerum, all local winemakers; having long hair as I did, he immediately related to me as another hippy who loved wine; it was a great loss when his plane crashed and he died in 08`; I’ve loved all of his wines especially the Silex and Pur Sang releases.

Our bottle may have been bought by Fred Brander who I know had numerous bottles, many in magnum and has been gracious to share them often.

It had a straw color to match a segment of the flavour profile which also had herb and honey infused citrus notes, bright acidity and that hallmark creamy texture that really enhanced the sensorial pleasures all the way to the back end.

It is barrel fermented and barrel aged, and is made from 35- to 60-year old vines planted in silex- (silica) rich soil. This is Sauvignon Blanc at its best.

Cheers,
Blake

Never fortunate enough to drink Silex, loved every bottle of Pur Sang I got my hands on, he was truly a magical winemaker…a great loss when he died

and at age 52 no less

In addition to Silex and Pur-Sang, I almost forgot to include the special rare bottling Didier did that I’ve had on 2 or 3 occasions, called the Astéroide which is made from a tiny plot of ungrafted and particularly temperamental vines. Totalling only 18 rows of vines which require constant attention, the wine is only bottled in particularly successful vintages with a total production of only about 200 liters.

I opened the 2006 Silex last night in magnum. Didier’s last vintage. I don’t think anyone makes a sauvignon blanc similarly.
Beautiful wine.

How do the later wines made by his son compare?

+1 I’m curious too.

From every bottle I’ve tasted they are not bad…but they are not the same. There are so many great wines that cost a fraction of what they’re asking…

'07 was not his last vintage?

Yes, 2007 was the last vintage that he handled completely from start to finish. They were already in bottle when he past if I recall…

Sorry, I thought it was 06

Thank you. I thought I was having a senior moment. I have a few Silex and Pur Sang from 2006 and 2007 resting in a cool, cool cellar so it’s good to hear the wines hold up so well.

A couple of older recent bottles.


1996 Pur Sang - a tad past its prime but who knows how it was stored, still exciting to drink

1989 Silex - at its peak and stunning, obviously perfect provenance / storage

I used to visit Didier a lot as I took him and others around California in 1988…for three weeks…what was I thinking??
I don’t often taste the new wines made under Benjamin’s eye, but a friend who is quite picky and visits and tastes regularly there thinks they are just fine and dandy, if not better.
The prices are a little crazy and now that i am semi retired…I just bought a case of PF made by a friend of Didier’s, Jean Michel Masson Blondelet…$25 retail…not a bad deal.

had a 1990 Pur Sang that was quite nice. Past peak but not by much

I’ve had similar feedback re Benjamin and his wines Mel. Haven’t had one, but will give it a try with a Silex or Pur Sang for comparison purposes.

I have a bottle I bought on release in the queue to open soon. I had heard rumors the wine is past its prime and on that basis didn’t bring it to dinner with Suzanne on Sunday night. Now I’m very curious and somewhat hopeful.

Suzanne, next time.

I’ve had quite a few of Didier’s wines and quite a few of Benjamin’s. The latter have never been comparable to the former. Even sound bottles lack the dazzling complexity that Didier was somehow able to achieve. Also, not all bottles have been sound. I believe it was the 2009s where I found multiple bottles flawed by ethyl acetate. Even without those experiences, I wouldn’t be a buyer anymore. The prices are way too high for what I’ve found in the bottles.

I have to agree, so far the son is not the father. I am very grateful, though, to have people checking in on Didier’s older bottles to see how they age.

The Jardins de Babylone, which I’ve had twice, is also special wine—the project he undertook in Jura.

Thanks for the notes, Blake and others.

Mahalo nui loa,

Mike