TN: ’13 M. Niellon Les Chaumées Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

I had to pick this up on a Binny’s closeout for $50. 2013 had me concerned over quality. Thankfully, this bottle more than delivered. The power, distinction, and concentration could go toe-to-toe with many a decent bottle of Corton Charlemagne. Elegantly refined, aromas of white flowers and oily stone fruits leap from the glass. On the palate, there’s straw, beeswax, pears, and lemon oil. The acidity, while high, is perfectly balanced by a round, weighty finish. This particular bottle was very fresh for 5 years past the vintage, but I certainly wouldn’t chance waiting on any more bottles if I had them, especially if I was paying full retail. 93+ points.

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2013 whites are really nice. Higher acidity wines but they are in balance and delicious. Not surprised here. Good score.

Notice much botrytis influence? The 2013 Chevalier is very marked by botrytis, but I haven’t tried the '13 Les Chaumées.

Why?

Didn’t really notice any botrytis. Wine is full but perfectly balanced. The acidity ensures the wine is neither cloying nor goopy.

Not saying this is the be-all-end-all, but a quick check of JR’s website is saying 2013 was quite erratic with careful grape selection holding paramount to a producer’s success.
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Mark. Sounds like you got a good deal on a good wine. Like the other guys, I’m a reasonable fan of 2013 WB and not afraid of the vintage at all. It’s not 2014, but it’s good.

  1. I’ve had good luck with 2013 white burgundy. I think a lot of people have a very negative impression due to the very difficult weather conditions and the fact that it’s an unpopular style in that it’s leaner and more high acid. Yes, you still have to be selective as a lot depends on the vineyard decisions and quality of the wine producer but there are some excellent wines in this vintage.

  2. I had the pleasure of drinking a bottle of Niellon’s Batard-Montrachet 2013 this past summer. I think the leaner and high acid style is a good match for Batard as the wines can sometimes be a bit richer and fatter for my taste in other vintages (also depending on producer). The wine was young of course, and opened up as I drank it over 2 days. Pretty closed and quiet at first but once it opened up it was gorgeous. Lots of structure but no fattness. Full but with the freshness of the 2013 vintage to carry all the material and make the finish keep going and going. I don’t remember there being any signs of botrytis in this wine. I’d absolutely love to see how this would be in 20-30 years but I don’t have any in the cellar and I don’t think I’d want to deal with the premox risk if I did.