Six of us got together to taste through some Italian wines, something I don’t get to do too often. Our destination this time was Giulietta. Service was excellent and the food varied from decent (the mains) to superb (pasta dishes and desserts).
The wines:
I missed the name of the Vermouth which Tran brought and which he will supply, but it was dazzling and unmixable—so good on its own!
2011 Marco Felluga Collio Russiz Superiore Bianoc Col Disore
A blend of fruilano, SB, Ribolla and Pinot Bianco, this has a nice hay element to the nose, along with a trace of unripe banana. The palate is quiet and composed with some cream and light lactic notes. Good starter.
1996 Dante Rivetti Bricco del Neueis Barbaresco
Didn’t get a chance to decant this so we settled for following its evolution–such as there was—in the glass over 4 hours or so. Opens with quite pretty flowers, tar and berry aromatics. In the mouth, a squalling child. Still-rugged tannins with raspberry, currant, chickoree and some anise. Great vibrant acidity behind all that, it barely budges over the evening but gives me the kind of elegance I’d look for from this house. A typical 96? i.e. wait 30 years?
2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo
The normale from half-bottle, I just wanted to check on the vintage. Textbook roses and strawberry to sniff at. Plenty of grip, jump and acidity in this youthful presentation, but I see why people are excited about the vintage. Loads of black fruit and already has an element of bliss with plenty more to come in the ensuing years.
2007 Biondi-Santi Brunello
Some of the table hadn’t tried a B-S before. Each of the next 3 wines had about a 1.5 hour decant. Classic (for me) cocoa, leather and berries scents. On the tongue, very smooth and delicious, with bright red fruit, some leather and a tick of balsam. Good length. This is very good…but without an extra gear the special Biondis have.
2007 Il Carbonaione Poggio Scallette
Bits of char and wild mushroom lurking in the glass, a quick black licorice slash for me and lots and lots of dark fruit. This is really lovely when I taste it. I don’t think much of “terroir” when I drink Italians, but this felt so much like it had its sense of place. High-toned sweet raspberry, a lot of sunshine on this and great length and balancing acidity, I think this is my WOTN.
2007 Valdicava Madonna del Piano Brunello
We all agree that very unfortunately there is something amiss with this bottle. It certainly has none of the harmonious joy that a good bottle should convey. Peter gets medicinal or rubbing alcohol. We waver between very slightly corked and VA, and it could have been a combo of both. There’s good red fruit flavor inside, but the palate is also somewhat disjointed, and the more I taste during the night, the less I get. A true shame. Not down-the-sink bad by any means, just way underperforming.
2011 Cusumano Moscato Della Zucco
I had fun bringing this, my last of 2 bottles, for the group. As soon as I put my nose to it…oohhh…cuddles. Exactly as I remember it from 3 years ago, blood orange, orange peel and cardamom. In the mouth, the flavor is replayed and matches my memory almost exactly, but the difference now is that it has creamed up a great deal. Truly delightful and my #2
Franco Conterno Barolo Chinato
Much thanks to Ross for bringing this for us to try. Hit of maraschino cherry and also spearmint and maybe some inkling of absinthe. It’s tingly dans la bouche, with very accented bitter end-palate and finish. I can recognize that it is very well made, but for sure not my thing. I am nevertheless very grateful to have tried.
Fun evening with lots of discourse and discussion and plenty of laughs.
Mike