I bought a mixed case+ of Renaissance during a library wine sale about 18 months ago, to mixed results. Some showed quite well, others a bit off. Epic streak of cork failure, however. Five of 6 of the first bottles I opened had corks that crumbled, causing me concern over storing these wines, and explaining in part some of the variability that I experienced.
The 1997 base cabernet for Renassiance just floored me. Much better than the 1997 Cabernet Reserve, but that could be attributable to the variability this winery shows.
Let’s get the obvious out of the way: They really don’t make Cali Cab like this anymore, unless I am missing some under-the-radar producers. What I mean by that is weight and texture. This is not glossy, not heavy; no notable presence of oak or alcohol. The wine is impeccably balanced. The nose is aged maduro tobacco, dry earth and a melange of red fruits. Expresses a little minty top-note and charcoal. Palate is mid-weight, so fresh, so lifted by citrus fruits, think blood orange. Tannins have melted, though a bit of residual dryness exists, suggesting drink up. Some sweet chalkiness to the finish as well. What I am experiencing is lithe Cabernet fruit, a wine suggestive of a higher percentage of Cab Franc than it actually possesses, and while merlot is in the cut, the wine is lean, not plump, with just a hint of plum. This wine is the Sociando Mallet of California.
Thanks for the note. My personal experience is that the wines currently coming directly from renaissance have some issues, most likely related to storage. It’s a bummmer. The good news is that Gideon has quite a few bottles from this era under the clos saron label that seem to perform a lot better. Some are made in really tiny quantities, but I’ve yet to be anything less than thrilled with anything purchased from clos saron, and some of the wines are mind-bendingly good.
Yes, those are the Clos Saron “Once Upon A Time” bottlings, and I’ve also tried some really good ones. About 18 months ago I tasted the 1995 Riesling - easily the best California Riesling I’ve ever tried, really stunning.
Great notes on that 1997 cab! I recently had the pleasure of opening a 95 “Premiere Cuvee”, and had a very similar, very positive experience. The mint/eucalyptus stood out for me. Massive sediment too.
The post is particularly timely in that, in light of that 95, I was considering loading up on some older Renaissance from the winery. Normally one could not ask for better provenance than right from the source, but maybe there is something funny going on here? Ergo the rather discounted prices? I have heard that Renaissance was (is?) owned by an, umm, unconventional religious denomination.
I was likely wrong about the drink up comment. The chalky tannins have kicked in hard, some of the dryness receded, and the fruit is still fresh. If you have some, pop one and try for yourself. If you only have one, drink it anyway cause it’s damn good.
He originally offered to take the case back, but at the risk of sounding cavalier, wasn’t worth the hassle of shipping it back, especially when some bottles showed fine, others a bit below expectations, and some shined. I would not buy again from the winery, however.
Thanks for the note. I likewise took advantage of that “inventory clearance” sale early in 2017. I just happened to open a magnum of the '99 Premier Cuvee last weekend. And just as with every single bottle but one that I have opened before it, the cork broke off in the neck of bottle. Yet, just like every bottle before it, the wine drank beautifully with time in the decanter (and straining of the cork sediment), having that unique plummy and tarry flavor. I think I paid $52.50 for the magnum. Absurd QPR.
