Dinner at Troisgros
If there is one restaurant that embodies everything which conspires to make France’s food and wine culture so wonderful—the tradition, the culinary techniques, the longstanding relationships with the winemakers— it must be Troisgros. And if one is looking to enjoy a leisurely summer in Europe eating and drinking as best he can, skipping Troisgros would be a grave mistake indeed.
The new space is beautiful. The hotel is well done, in the modern French style, and the dining room is excellent—luxuriuos, welcoming, dignified. Hallowed gastronomic ground for sure, and I felt it was only appropriate to drink wines worthy of the circumstance.
The dining room:
The food:
Outstanding overall. A couple of the dishes that were very memorablee were an apple and avocado amuse bouche and a sole with tarragon:
The wines:
1999 Mugnier Amoureusses
More delicate than the 05 Roumier Amoureusses from a few nights earlier, More floral. The nose is dancing back and forth between hinting at a creamier wine or a brighter, crisper one. Both dried fruit and also richer fruit. The palate is supple and mild but so well balanced.
2008 Coche Genevrieres
A big nose of yellow peach, with spice and some oak on the palate. Tropical, creamy, long finish with some mineralogy.
1999 Meo Brulees
Soft but rich on the nose. Tannic, with tea and smoke. Light in the mouth, with sour cherry. A little closed but opened up nicely over an hour or so.
1999 Lefarge Clos de Chenes
Nose of tobacco and mint—fresh and sweet and herbal. Clean palate. Still young. Mild but persistent tannins.
1999 Roumier Bonnes Mares
Lots of mineralogy. Explosive red fruit on the palate. Darker than the other wines. Crisp tannins with a bit of tea. A little earthy, but in a nice way. This really settled in over time. It was a bit awkward at first, but was an absolute force by the end of the evening.
1995 Jayer Beaux Monts
Sweet on the palate. Balanced acid and tannins with a little oak showing. Slightly stewed fruit notes. Tight, long finish. An honor to taste.