Domaine Faiveley Clos des Cortons Faiveley Vertical ATL with Erwan Faiveley

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Domaine Faiveley Clos des Cortons Faiveley Vertical ATL with Erwan Faiveley

#1 Post by dcornutt » May 21st, 2018, 4:49 pm

Last Saturday I attended a vertical tasting organized by Bob Conrad and Michael Bowden. The wines were Clos des Cortons Faiveley 1926 through 2016. Not all years were tasted. We did taste 48 vintages. Allen Meadows was present as well as the extremely congenial Erwan Faiveley. We started with a little history of the vineyard from the perspective of the Domaine.

The Clos des Cortons is a very old plot of land in the Rognet area of Ladoix-Serrigny. It belonged originally to Charlemagne himself but was subsequently given to the last Duke of Burgundy who left it in the hands of Marie Bourgogne. In 1874, the property was owned by a negociant in Nuits-Saint-Georges and was purchased by the Faiveley family in its entirety.

The Clos was 3.01 hectares in size when purchased in 1874 as Clos des Corton. The wine is now known as Clos des Corton Faiveley due to some litigation with the syndicate of Corton. Several rounds of litigation to get Faiveley to quit using the name Clos des Corton have failed ending in a judge requiring Faiveley to put their name after Clos des Corton making a new AOC.

Present day the Clos des Corton Faiveley is primarily planted in pinot noir. It is still 3.01 hectares but only 2 hectares 76 ares 52 centaires are planted in pinot noir. The rest is planted in chardonnay and since the chardonnay is at the very top of the hill it is allowed to be marketed as Corton-Charlemagne instead of Clos des Corton blanc.

The exposure is easterly and the soil is white marl with ferruginous oolites. The years the vineyard was planted are 1936, 1956, 1965, 1971, 1976, 1977, 1987 and 2002.

Annual production is 15,000 bottles.

The groupings were organized by Doug Barzelay. They were organized by era.

Our first flight featured wines made by Erwan with assistance from Bernard Hervet up until 2007. Erwan feels 2012 was his breakthrough year. All of the vineyard changes and winemaking changes finally came together.

Flight One-

2006 - Dark cherry nose. Fabulous aromas of dark cherry fruit and early notes. There are some signs of aging around the rim. Very strong tannic finish. Very nice.

2007- Very pretty cherry nose with a few earthy secondary notes. More feminine here. This wine is delicious. The structure is resolved. Delicious!

2008- Very bright cherry nose. High tone. Very floral. The palate is a little thinner. The fruit is a little overwhelmed by acidity. Linear. Tannic finish.

2011- Gorgeous red cherry nose. Pure. No green! Cherry red fruit that is energetic and lively. Just missing some complexity to be the next level. Excellent for the vintage.

2013- Very slight pyrazine note. Here the fruit is brighter red cherry. Firm wine which showed somewhat closed on the palate. Reserved.

2014- A gorgeous bright cherry nose. Beautifully presented. Very young. The palate is delicious with well-tamed tannins and a really full mid palate. Excellent!

Flight Two-

2005
– corked.

2009
- Denser and more powerful wine. Primary with vibrant cherry on the nose and palate. Very long in the mouth. Young and special.

2010- Fantastic nose. Perfectly ripe fruit. A balance that is very special. Primary right now but this one will be extraordinary with time. Fabulous.

2012 – Very dense ripe fruit on the nose. Some bitterness with the cherry fruit. Tannic. The wine seems very closed.

2015 - The nose of a barrel sample. Bright fruit. Not a lot of complexity but perfectly ripe and seductive. The mouth feel and midpalate now are incredible. Vibrant cherry fruit and dances. Very long. Incredible future here.

2016- This one is closer to a barrel sample but the nose is tamed now. Focused cherry fruit. Less density. The mid palate is excellent but lacks the volume and intensity of the 2015. The structure is what some would call classic. Excellent!

Flight Three-

1983 -
Corked

1994 en magnum. Tastevinage label. 1997 bottling- Some darker brown sugar notes on the nose. A core of cherry fruit. The texture is very nice. Resolved tannin. Delicious.

1998 - Cherry core. Nice nose. Very tannic finish.

2000- Lighter cherry fruit. A nice generous nose and palate. Not as intense as the best wines. Some tannin on the finish.

2004- Afflicted by the 2004 pyrazine disease. Cherry fruit but very herbal.

Flight Four

1976-
Gorgeous. Classic structure. Vibrant red fruit with some element of truffle and brown sugar. The fruit is a little drying and the acid is a little out front but this is quite tasty. Resolved structure.

1989- Very dark fruit on the nose. Not a lot of complexity. Good intensity but falls a little on the finish.

1990- Darker fruit. Truffle. Here there is power. Very long. Still structured.

1997- Beautiful nose with softer tannin here. Cherry fruit. Only on the finish is there firmness.

2003 - Very dark. Cherry compote. The mid palate is a little hollowed out. Very tannic!

Flight Five

1972-
Delicious. Darker fruit with truffle and notes of brown sugar. Very long and sensual at this point Resolved.

1979
- Old gorgeous red burgundy. Complex. Ripe fruit. Persistent. Fabulous!

1982 - Tastevinage bottled in 1985 - Dense fruit. Cherry. The mid palate is good here. Resolved. Not incredibly complex but this is tasty.

1986- Bizarre nose. Burnt cotton candy. Chaptalized? Burnt sugar. This bottle might not be representative.

1987 - corked

1992 Tastevinage bottled in 1999 - A delicious friendly wine. Cherry fruit. Resolved structure. Just lacking that extra gear and complexity to make it special.

Flight Six

1985- Wonderful effusive cherry nose. Dense perfectly ripe cherry fruit with great balance and length. Fabulous. Special.

1999- corked

2002 - Darker ripe fruit. Cherry. Structured and closed today.

Flight Seven

1988- Dense reticent nose that finally opened into a very nice red fruited beauty. This is a very nice wine that still shows the firmness of the year. Some higher acid and tannin persist. Very long. I liked this.

1991- Lighter color. Beautiful balance. This one finishes with a rush of tannin that clips the finish.

1993- This is rocking. Cherry core. Starting to shed tannin. Penetrating and pure. Very long and tremendous mouth feel. Wonderful!

1995- Like the 1993, this showed a vibrant cherry fruit. Effusive nose. Great length. Nice mid palate. This I shows a very slight drying of fruit on the finish but is one of my favorites of this flight.

1996- Reticent nose. Very similar to the 1993/1995. Full mid palate. Cherry core. Higher acid. Well buffered by fruit.

2001- Very young and very closed. Pure. Hard to analyze at this point.

Flight 8

1955- Delicate and complex. Red fruit. Spicy. Slightly sweet. The finish is excellent! Wonderful old Faiveley wine. Special.

1961 - Denser here. Red fruit. Very full mid palate. Intense and complex. Loved this. Again this is special.

1964 en magnum- Incredible nose. Floral. Red fruited. Intense palate. Not quite the midpalate density of the 1961 but this is incredible. Also special.

1969- Gorgeous complex cherry nose. Intense palate with beautiful balance. Involving. A+. Special.

1971 - Cherry fruit nose. Effusive. Gorgeous sweet palate that is perfectly balanced and proportioned. Incredible complex finish. Profound wine to me. Wow!

1978- At the tasting, the wine was old and destroyed by VA. At the dinner later in the evening, this wine sung. Intense cherry. Complex. Huge mid palate. Very nice. Maybe not the intensity of the 1971 but this is great.

Flight 9

1926- Musty and dirty. I think this was a bad bottle.

1929- Pristine. Domaine sourced. Gorgeous resolved nose. Cherry fruit and earthy notes. Fabulous mid palate that sings with complexity. Extraordinarily long. Profound. Thanks Erwan

1947 en magnum Dense and dark. Some VA. Very ripe. Monolithic in many ways. Tried over several hours. This one didn’t move.

1949- Bad bottle. This tasted old and musty. No fruit. Bummer.

1959 (Domaine Sourced) Immortal nose. Absolutely pristine cherry fruit. Totally integrated with some earth on the nose. Vibrant. Penetrating. The palate is incredible. It goes on forever. Profound wine and the best wine of the tasting to me. Bravo!

1959 (Swiss Sourced) Beautiful integrated nose. Cherry fruit. Complex. Wonderful but it lacks the emotional fire of the domaine-sourced bottle.

I appreciated being asked to join in the tasting. Michael and Bob did an incredible job of setting it up. Doug Barzelay did a fabulous job of flighting the wines based on era of the winemaker.

A fascinating day!

santé
Last edited by dcornutt on May 22nd, 2018, 3:38 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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#2 Post by maureen nelson » May 21st, 2018, 5:43 pm

Thanks,Don. My friends and I bought lots of 1985 red burgundy and used to drink them frequently when they were young and the Clos du Corton was always my favorite. As a result I have many vintages of this wine in mycellar soI was thrilled to see your report.

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#3 Post by Dennis Atick » May 21st, 2018, 6:09 pm

Wow, Don. You guys did ok. Hate I couldn't make it.
Impressive you were able to nail so many nice notes on so many wines.
I hear Jason and Brush team did good work on the food.
Glad to hear it.
Cheers.
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#4 Post by dcornutt » May 21st, 2018, 6:14 pm

Dennis,

Going to Brush with my kids for an omekase for my 60th next Tuesday.
His trio of tuna. Toro/Chu Toro/ o Toro was as good if not better than Tomo.
That is saying something in ATL. Very creative.
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#5 Post by Marc Frontario » May 21st, 2018, 6:23 pm

Unreal tasting...great notes...loved seeing my birth year show up big! '71
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#6 Post by Marc Frontario » May 21st, 2018, 6:25 pm

Unreal tasting...great notes...loved seeing my birth year show up big! '71

I actually liked the '11's that I've tasted so far
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#7 Post by P L owet » May 21st, 2018, 6:42 pm

“Not all years were tasted. We did taste 48 vintages.”
Sneaky funny.
Amazing tasting! I have an orphan ‘83 so bummed that yours was corked. Great notes on the others.
Regards,
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#8 Post by alan weinberg » May 21st, 2018, 6:59 pm

would love to see Doug on the board. Had a great Burg trip w/him years ago. Great guy w/a ton of knowledge.

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#9 Post by Jeremy Holmes » May 21st, 2018, 7:11 pm

A nice tasting Don. Pity about the corked bottles.
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#10 Post by Sanjay Nandurkar » May 22nd, 2018, 2:10 am

Nice tasting.

Of the older bracket #8 looks good. But it appears that the latest set of wines are probably as good or better (potentially) than what hey have ever made.

I have tasted the 2010 and 2012 and they look great. I might stock up more 2015.

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#11 Post by Howard Davis » May 22nd, 2018, 2:24 am

Don, amazing tasting. I would have loved to be there ...

The Cortons Faiveley is the one Faiveley wine I buy every vintage. To me, it's emblematic of Faiveley. There's something about the fact that it's a very rare climat with the maker's name in it's name (like DRC). At tastings at or of Faiveleys, this cuvee usually stands out as a top wine ... For example, the 2007 is, I think, a special wine. It must be one of the best wines of the red vintage and I'd say the same about the 2011.
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#12 Post by dcornutt » May 22nd, 2018, 2:32 am

Sanjay. The more recent wines have a fullness to the midpalate and intensity of the fruit that many of the wines didn't have. It does remind me of Leroy in many ways. I know that is his ideal. The wines are now going from strength to strength with a very young passionate winemaker and his team. I think the best is yet to come for Faiveley. Old ones especially the 50s/60s/70s are so good so the bar is very high.
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#13 Post by dcornutt » May 22nd, 2018, 2:36 am

alan weinberg wrote:would love to see Doug on the board. Had a great Burg trip w/him years ago. Great guy w/a ton of knowledge.
He is a great guy with a ton of knowledge. Lots of fun too. He tastes often in Burgundy. He is probably the most experienced of anyone I have ever had the good fortune to share a glass with at a tasting. This includes Allen Meadows who is very experienced. I see him infrequently however through Michael Bowden.
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#14 Post by Marc Frontario » May 22nd, 2018, 4:36 am

alan weinberg wrote:would love to see Doug on the board. Had a great Burg trip w/him years ago. Great guy w/a ton of knowledge.
Pardon my ignorance...which Doug is this?
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#15 Post by dcornutt » May 22nd, 2018, 5:41 am

Doug Barzelay.
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#16 Post by Michael Bowden » May 22nd, 2018, 10:50 am

Don,

Thank you for posting such great notes and trying to capture the weekend and everything that went along with it.

This was a great event, if I do say so myself, and being able to capture the style of a domaine across the decades/vintages is a great pleasure.
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#17 Post by RyanC » May 22nd, 2018, 10:57 am

Wow. Amazing tasting. And Faiveley is making such great wines these days. The CDC along with the Cazetiers are probably the sweet spots in the portfolio for my money.
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#18 Post by dcornutt » May 22nd, 2018, 3:54 pm

RyanC wrote:Wow. Amazing tasting. And Faiveley is making such great wines these days. The CDC along with the Cazetiers are probably the sweet spots in the portfolio for my money.
Ryan,
I ADORE the Latricieres Chambertin. It is my sweet spot along with the two you name.
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#19 Post by D@ve D y r 0 f f » May 22nd, 2018, 4:15 pm

Wow, Don. Thanks! [cheers.gif]

So, do you think these age well? newhere

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#20 Post by dcornutt » May 22nd, 2018, 5:34 pm

D@ve D y r 0 f f wrote:Wow, Don. Thanks! [cheers.gif]

So, do you think these age well? newhere
Hey Dave,
Hope all is well. Congrats to your daughter!
Yes they age well.
The new ones are going to be very long agers.
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#21 Post by dcornutt » May 22nd, 2018, 5:37 pm

Michael Bowden wrote:Don,

Thank you for posting such great notes and trying to capture the weekend and everything that went along with it.

This was a great event, if I do say so myself, and being able to capture the style of a domaine across the decades/vintages is a great pleasure.
Great job Michael. You and Bob went well beyond in putting this together.
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#22 Post by D@ve D y r 0 f f » May 22nd, 2018, 5:39 pm

dcornutt wrote:
D@ve D y r 0 f f wrote:Wow, Don. Thanks! [cheers.gif]

So, do you think these age well? newhere
Hey Dave,
Hope all is well. Congrats to your daughter!
Yes they age well.
The new ones are going to be very long agers.
Thanks!

I have very little Faiveley, particularly GCs, but a few years back Garagiste ran a special on a six-pack horizontal of their 2001 GCs for a silly cheap price compared to what the new wines go for (though I realize quality has improved). I still have them all. Perhaps they'll be ready to open for grandchildren's college graduations...

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#23 Post by Mark Golodetz » May 22nd, 2018, 11:28 pm

An amazing event.Thank you for the notes Don.
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#24 Post by Michael Bowden » January 9th, 2019, 6:56 pm

FYI - if you are a BH subscriber he has written up this event in the newly released Issue 73. Pages 208-216.
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#25 Post by Mike Grammer » January 10th, 2019, 8:49 am

Eek--how did I miss this thread back in May? Thanks much, Michael, for bringing it back up on the board. Fantastic notes, Don. Of the recent vintages, I have thought 07 and 10 were exceptional for Corton in general---and there was value to be had from the Grand Cru in terms of pricing. Love that you got to compare right then and there with some older vintages.

Sante

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#26 Post by PCLIN » January 10th, 2019, 8:59 am

Just opened ‘07 this week, fantastic showing.
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#27 Post by Sh@n A » January 10th, 2019, 9:13 am

Had the 2001 just recently and it was not a great showing. Didn't see this thread earlier, and it sounds like the 2001 was a disappointing showing here as well.
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#28 Post by Paul Jaouen » January 10th, 2019, 11:09 am

Thanks for the notes Don. Looks like an awesome tasting.

Were there multiple bottles of each vintage? I see some striking differences between your notes and Alan Meadows' notes on some of the wines. For example, you have 1999 as corked and Alan loved it (rated 95 pts).
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#29 Post by Josh Najjar » January 10th, 2019, 1:57 pm

Don, thanks for the notes, great read.

I agree the 2010 should be a great bottle with time.

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#30 Post by dcornutt » January 10th, 2019, 3:43 pm

Paul,
We had single bottles but there were some backups. Allen also tasted a few of the wines on other occasions than this specific tasting. I know he retasted some of the wines on another occasion.
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#31 Post by alan weinberg » January 10th, 2019, 6:02 pm

hope the new ones prove both more approachable and ageable. I need to drink some old ones. Thanks. Lovely thread.

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#32 Post by William Kelley » January 11th, 2019, 4:20 am

Amazing tasting. I'm about to write up a mini-vertical covering the "reconstructed" vintages. Don't see much really old Faiveley at the cavistes I shop from, it's a pity.
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#33 Post by Kirk.Grant » January 11th, 2019, 5:40 am

This must be such a great way to really learn and understand a vineyard & producer.
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#34 Post by Andrew S. » January 22nd, 2019, 10:20 pm

Fantastic vertical. I had the 05 recently and it is fantastically balanced, piercing, nervy and complete. It's neck and neck with the 2010. We'll see how they stand against the 93 in some years. I suspect the 2010s will be very special.

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#35 Post by Charlie Gierling » February 28th, 2019, 4:51 am

Who knows where that plot exactly is?
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