-
2003 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (5/3/2018)
We had this along with the 2013 and 2009. The hot vintage shows here, but I think the wine is pretty good, considering that. Dark fruits, brooding, but not raisiny. Bigger, heavier but still retains enough acidity to keep it from being flabby. Dark soil tones, tar, licorice and tobacco notes. Slightly sweet in comparison to the others. -
2009 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (5/3/2018)
We had this along with the 2013 and 2003. Again, I think the vintage is transparent in the wine. Darker toned than the 13, more black fruited, with some tar and smokey, earthy notes. More soft and full with less freshness than the 13. Preferred by another at the table, but more simple and less interesting to me. -
2013 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (5/3/2018)
We drank this along with the 09 and 03. No surprise that this was the brightest, most lively of the three due to both age and the vintage. Nice nose showing mint, licorice, tobacco and earthy notes. I found a lot of tobacco, but someone else mentioned barnyard, which I didn’t get. Slightly tart, with fresh acidity, earthy, darkish fruit, but nothing like the 03 and 09. More tobacco on the palate. I like the vibrancy here and I see some similarities with the 2010 vintage. I think the wine will develop well. My favorite of the three vintages tonight.
So if I am reading correctly; the 2003 is in early mature drinking window (tertiary notes); the 2009 is sorta closed; and the 2013 is all primary. Is that right?
Eric, I know the Felsina’s Reserva is known to age well and for a long time, similarly to Rancia, but I don’t have any experience with this bottling past about 15 years or so. They are so good young, I probably drink most of them too soon.
For the 03, it is in no danger of fading anytime soon, but I’m not sure how much better or more complex it will get. It seemed kind of 1 noted - just bass notes. Dark and deep. A friend of mine, who likes very old wines, and is a big fan of Felsina, said he thought it was tired. I didn’t see that.
The 09 could be considered closed, I guess. Other’s commented that they thought it was expressive both on the nose and palate. I have consumed close to a case of them now, never really seeing a lot of potential for aging, but I could easily be wrong. I only have a bottle or two left, and will probably sit on them to find out.
The 13, while definitely an infant, was the most complex of the three already, to me. My wife preferred the 13, the other couple preferred the 09 and 03. The 13 is probably my favorite vintage in the past ten years, along with the 2010.
Hope that helps.
I think at this point (at least IMO), it looks like 2009 is going to go down as a so-so vintage in Chianti. My recollection is that I liked the wines better on release, and with the possible exception of the Selvapiana Bucerchiale, none of them have shown much in the way of positive development, and some seem to have settled into a “middle of the road” rut.
The last time I had the 2009 Felsina CCR (February of this year), I liked it’s sibling from 2005 better. To me, 2004 will be the eventual reference point vintage for Felsina, although I do have high hopes for 2010 as well. I haven’t pulled a cork on the 2013 Rancia yet to know one way or the other about that vintage (and for some reason I neglected to purchase the CCR).
Our group of friends had a big Felsina tasting about six months ago - several vintages going back into the 80’s. I had the opportunity at the end of the night to have half-full bottles of the 1995 CCR and 1995 Rancia available to taste, and we went back-and-forth for a while. The unanimous favorite was the CCR. Brighter fruit, fresher, longer finish.
The best i’ve had was the '88, in 2013; wonderfully resolved but still very fresh and lively.
This would be my go-to Sangiovese if it was easier to find in California!
I find the 2015 a bit Bretty. Is this common?
That’s interesting. Someone mentioned the other night that they thought the 13 showed some barnyard. I didn’t see that, but perhaps they are more sensitive. I typically find some earthy, tobacco flavors, but I have not heard or seen much mention of Brett from others in the past. I wonder if they have developed a problem.
I am about to pick up some 15.
in my experience, Fontodi’s Chiantis, as good as they can be, show Brett more often than Felsina’s. But I did have Felsina’s 1999 regular Chianti earlier this week and is was mildly Brett-y.