TN: Some Cheval Blanc and Lafleur at American Cut, NYC

Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Lafleur wines at American Cut (Midtown), NYC, 4/30/2018.

Thanks to Leo who initiated this dinner for 10 people and provided a great opportunity for someone like me who don’t get to see, let alone drink, multiple bottles of both Cheval Blanc and Lafleur in one sitting. When I asked, Leo’s rationale in pitting these 2 properties with each other was 2-fold: a) high percentage of Cab Franc usage by both, and b) they are practically (adjacent) neighbors, in spite of each being in different communes.

Just a quick comment on our dinner - for our entrée, most had one form of steak or another, with appetizers ranging from Caesar Salad, Octopus, Bacon and Steak Tartare. It was probably good that the attendees’ attention were primarily and deservedly focused on the wines, rather than the average nature (my take) of the dishes that were served, although I recall that those who had the Steak Tartare were generally pleased with their appetizers.

Whites:

2015 Le Petit Cheval Bordeaux Blanc

A pleasing, medium-bodied, elegant young white Bordeaux. I googled that it’s 100% Sauvignon Blanc and is the 2nd vintage ever of this wine. Extremely dry, this was a refreshing mix of ripe lemon and hints of tropical fruit. Delicious long, finish. Impressive effort. A-

2015 Clai Jakoz Malvazia, Croatia
My first ever Croatian wine and so I hope Leo and Kreso would forgive, and correct me, if I misspelled the wine’s name as this was brought by Kreso to oblige a request for him to bring a sample white from his family’s winery. Very aromatic Malvasia-based wine with minerals, sweet white fruit at the forefront. Developed weight and intensity with time in glass. B

2015 Domaine Jamet Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc
A Northern Rhone CdR with the cooler-climate Northern fruit and mouthfeel. Nice components, with ripe white fruit and hints of nuttiness. B+

2011 Domaine Trimbach Riesling Grand Cru Geisberg
Another first for me, as when googled, I found that the first ever vintage of this wine was the 2009. Very Trimbach bouquet with petrol, floral and earth notes. The only Trimbach that I know of with the official “Grand Cru” status. With the slight softness, smoothness and deeper complexity, this is a step up over the already usually good CFEs. Dry with some lemon candy notes. A pleasure. A-


Reds:

1983 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion

Herb and confection spices on the bouquet. High acidity, with ripe blue and black fruit. Still slightly angular, perhaps will round out with a bit more cellar years. No slouch, though. B+

1985 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion
Smelled leather and ripe fruit. Suave and impressively complete, with plump fruit, herb and savory nuances. A-

1986 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion
Can’t deny the 1986 traits in this wine, but of First Growth quality as the tight muscles, high acidity and the traces of tannin and youthfulness is still present. There’s a slight creaminess in the texture and some good chewy fruit. A-

1982 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion
Oh boy. Alluring bouquet with fruit, leather and sweet confection. Ripe red and black fruit. Perfect acidity. Impeccable balance. A very, very long finish. A

1989 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion
Herb and mint on the nose. Ripe and silky with some tannin presence that suggest a little more cellar time can likely do more good. B+

1998 Ch. Lafleur, Pomerol
A young Lafleur that is making a case for why Right Bank wines have made good, in this case very good, in 1998. The ripe fruit, good level of high acidity, and a medium-full silky body, actually makes this joy to drink even at this young age. This appears to be on its way to greatness given many more cellar years. A-

1999 Ch. Lafleur, Pomerol
Very sweet, perfumed bouquet. Tannic and a big opulent wine whose structure and component are pointing to a very positive future. B+

2000 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion
I feel lucky to say I’ve tasted a 2000 CB, but owners of this very young, tannic wine will be luckier when the time arrives for this to show greatness in the future. There’s that herb/minty note that I like very much and which made me wonder if more cab franc was utilized. B++

2001 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion
Very young and primary with tobacco and wood on the bouquet. Although some lush fruit showed, there also is semblance of elegance. Need cellar years. B+

2001 Ch. Lafleur, Pomerol
A appealing bouquet featuring fruit, tobacco and coffee. Again, after following a parade of wines fornm the 1980s this would also appear young. But the opulence with black fruit, graphite, fine tannin and high acidity clearly spells only good things when this matures. B+

2001 Ch. Hosanna, Pomerol
Leo brought this, undeclared, and so I missed posting the TN as my original TN list was based on the email exchanges within the group. Anyway, the Hosanna was much more open than either of the Lafleur and CB. Robustly fruited, oaked, some espresso. A friendlier drink, but not as intense/complex as CB or Lafleur. B



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Edited: photo courtesy of Leo F. and added TN on 2001 Hosanna.

That was an awesome night, we went thru 15 bottles and not a single drop left by the end of the night.

Wow…killer tasting…was hoping to see a note on the '90 cheval blanc…had the '83 which was a nice drink

Thanks for the notes. Wonder when the 2000 Cheval Blanc will open up completely. Decade may be??

Thanks Ramon, what a great tasting. Seems like these wines need so much patience. Last time I tried it the 1998 Cheval Blanc was tight and awkward as well, though the 1999 is starting to drink well.

Nice notes Ramon. Very fun dinner and great wines! I agree on the food. Back to Bobby Van’s for the next one.

Sorry I missed it, but great to get notes on the 1982/3/5

Last time we did this, the 1985 won by hair over the1983

Great notes Ramon and Mark…sorry as well that you missed it!

The dinner was great and I’m mostly on the same page with you ratings, but I think my preferences are slightly different. The 82 was WOTN, but not by much. The 83 and 89 were spectacular as well…and I can still smell the nose of the 89.

All five of the bottles from the 80’s were special and of similar quality.

I loved the 2015 Cheval Bordeaux Blanc as well. Amazing wine so young and I imagine it was be breathtaking in a few years.

Amazing tasting and notes. How much aeration did the wines get? Any sense of more might have helped some of them?

Of course, drinking preference is subjective, but given my preferences for mature Bdx as indicated by my generally higher scores for the 80’s CBs, and if I owned 2000 CB, I’ll wait until after 10 years to decide to open one.



Good question. I wasn’t able to ask the others. With the exception of one other, I came later than everybody else with the 2001 and which I popped and poured during our dinner. Given the results, I would have opened and left in decanter for at least 6-8 hours before heading out to the restaurant.

Heavy hitters!

Great notes, thanks Ramon!

What a fantastic evening. The wines were singing and hitting on all four cylinders. The 82 and 83 where in such a perfect place. I think the 2000 has great potential but requires patience - thankfully I have another bottle but glad I gave this a try. I’m not a huge fan of Lafleur but was fortunate enough to try these.

The Petite Cheval Blanc Bordeaux Blanc was utterly delicious - I have another bottle that I suspect will not outlast the coming summer months!

That was the first time I’ve had the Petite Cheval Blanc Blanc. I totally agree with Frank. I am going to pick some up.