Couple interesting and unique recent Nebbs

Been meaning to get some notes up and starting with some really interesting older wines, most of which I had only one bottle of and may never see again because of either rarity or obscurity. But lots of fun as always!

WWII wine

1945 Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Speciale - a wine like this was more academic than anything else. It was not flawed in any way, but most certainly old and over the hill at this point. That being said, it was unique and fun to enjoy and ponder. I had shared the photos with Giacomo when I visited in the fall and he confirmed what I thought, which was that it was held in brenta and bottled in 1969 after the split of the family. The bottle had the handwritten label on the front and as noted the printed label on the back noting both 1945 and 1969. The wine’s color was a really light orange, tea like in nature. On the nose totally tertiary, smelling of caramel and some sweetness. On the palate, no tannins at all, some acidity left. Fun to drink, to think about not only what was going on in the world at that time, but specifically in Italy. Anyhow, a wine worth posting on. Here’s some pictures including one where I put the glass side by side with a rivers marie pinot to see just how striking the color difference is.

A lesser Rionda

1975 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda - is it an oxymoron? A lesser Rionda? Especially when its made by il Maestro? Well its all relative. What it has in common with some of the great wines that Bruno made from this vineyard - power, richness, structure. Where it fell short was the lack of nuance, complexity and x factor that make the greatest of Bruno’s Rionda’s legendary. That said, a terrific wine, eminently enjoyable, great fruit and lots of life ahead. Better depiction of the color of the wine in the picture where you can see my finger through the glass.

Adding another, the most wonderful cloaked black label from Gaja:

1958 Gaja Barbaresco “Black Label” or “Infernot” - this wine hasn’t budged much since Antonio’s note from 2007. Exquisite wine, like the best 58s. Great translucent ruby color. Red fruit and remains ethereal in nature. A testament to the longevity of Gaja’s wines. And a good cork! Could last forever…but why wait

A trio of 64s shared with fellow board member Jonathan (and Melissa) Doft at Marta in NYC:

1964 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Speciale - excellent, perfectly balanced, towards the balsamic flavor profile with a bit of darker fruits. Great acidity, number 2 on the night.

1964 Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Speciale - shot to … hoped it might come around but never really did

1964 Giuseppe Mascarello Barbaresco Riserva - wine of the night to my surprise, as these old G Mascarello bottles are very variable, but the good bottles tend to be really good. Quintessential good old nebbiolo, great freshness with a long finish. Dried red fruit. Killer.

Thanks, Daniel!

It appears that Cavallotto hasn’t bottled a Riserva Speciale since 1982. Was it simply re-labeled as the Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe or is there a different story behind it? I’m no expert, but IMO the Vigna San Giuseppe remains an incredible value.
Regards,
Peter

The regulations did away with Riserva Speciale about 1980. Cavallotto has owned most of Bricco Boschis since 1948. I assume the older riservas and riserva speciales were made partially or fully from the subplot known as Vigna San Giuseppe, but they have in the past (late 70s) bottled another section separately which they call Vigna Colle Sud Ovest. The oldest Vigna San Giuseppe I have seen was from 1981.

Thanks for the interesting historical background!
Regards,
Peter

How long do you normally decant old barolo? Or is it better to do slow ox? Just trying to figure out what’s the best method.

Regarding the different plots of Bricco Boschis: I have enjoyed Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 1979. In 1985 and 1989 they also made a Bricco Boschis Punta Marcello as I have these in my cellar currently. I had enjoyed Colle Sudovest from 1974 and 1990.

I have had the 1975, 1978, 1979, and 1982 Colle Sudovest, but not the 74 and 90. I didn’t know they made one that late. Any chance you could email me photos of those two and the Punta Marcellos?

Ken - of course - mails sent

I never slow ox old barolo. I always decant and the amount of time depends on how it smells out of the gate to me. Initially decant to get the wine off the sediment. If the wine is absolutely singing when I open it, which some are, I won’t leave for too long, maybe an hour. Otherwise for me typically is between 3-6 hours.