Bern’s was super fun, albeit imperfect in ways that ultimately detracted very little from the experience. First, the good. The bar was extremely lively and fun. Service from the bartenders was top-notch, and the crowd was interesting and outgoing. The wine service was also impeccable. While I waited (we’ll get to that), I started with glasses of 1975 Souverain Zin and an old Rhone (never learned what it was). Both were impeccable, fresh, and delicious. Both were $7.
Once I was seated, I asked for a somm, and the wine director came over (maybe Brad?). I’ve rarely had better wine service. I told him I wanted a great, old-school .375, and that I like Burg, N. Rhone, and Bdx. I said I was willing to spend $200-300. He said that, while I could get great Bdx in that range, he really recommended a N. Rhone because they had some great .375s that were drinking well. I was in no position to disagree, so he brought out a 1964 Jaboulet Cote Rotie. Not on the list and only $90. It was perfect for what it was–fresh, balanced, fully resolved, and Cote Rotie to the core.
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The whole experience was loads of fun and one I’d love to do again with a group. I ended with a tour of the cellar, which is well worth it. The wine director lamented that the list was being severely picked over–and I’m sure that’s true–but there is still a ton that I would love to drink, and the fact that they have so many mature bottles for cheap is completely unique. I’ve never seen anything like it.
All of that said, there are a few things Bern’s first-timers should know. As Robert and others previewed, the place was packed and the wait considerable. I couldn’t arrive until 7:20 or so, and it’s no exaggeration to say that it was the busiest I’ve seen any restaurant, ever. And it’s quite a scene. I eat solo on business travel almost weekly–often at very popular, Michelin-starred type places–and I have never waited anywhere near as long as I did at Bern’s. It took nearly 2 hours to be seated at the bar, which was sort of okay because (1) I had nothing else to do, (2) the crowd was fun, and (3) the wine BTG was great. But it did test my patience.
The food was tasty but not superlative. I actually really liked the old-school approach of the French onion soup and old-school salad (which is in line with the old-school decor), but neither was remarkable. And the steak, while tasty, was nothing special. I had a 14oz ribeye, which was huge and seemingly much larger than 14oz (or other places are short-changing me). It was good but not nearly as good as I do at home routinely with a Whole Foods prime ribeye on the big green egg/cast iron. I guess that’s the reality of ordering steak and why I rarely do it–but I didn’t find the Bern’s steak on the same level as other great steaks I’ve had at places that really focus on aging/marbling/etc. May also be a product of serving 1,000 covers a night. I was stuffed after dinner so I skipped desert and Madeira. Next time.
A final note: I found it notable how few people seemed to be taking advantage of the wine program. The bar had one guy who was drinking '93 Ponsot CdlR and DRC solo. But the rest, other than myself, were drinking martinis or beer, except two groups who were drinking The Prisoner.