Last fall, the Mrs. and I planned on visiting the Napa region to celebrate various milestones, including visits to favorite and new wineries, winemakers, and culinary locations. Unfortunately, the Mrs. fell very sick just a couple of days before our departure, and when it didn’t look like it would pass quickly enough, I had to back out of all of the arrangements.
She got sick on Friday, October 6th.
I made cancellations on the 7th.
In the evening of the 8th, the day we were to originally arrive, Roy Piper posted about quickly spreading wildfires in the area, and the rest is known history.
It was an unforseen blessing, in that we otherwise would have traveled to the area and then found out that it was in vain, yet now we could find a new time to reschedule, and also keep out of the way as the region battled with the fires and the following recovery. Today, unless you know where to look, you wouldn’t know that huge fires had happened around the Valley. Such is the massive effort of the first responders to contain the damage, and nature’s response to grow once more.
The itinerary for this visit was probably about 80% the same as the original, with some adjustments. I found that while October seems to be a very popular time to visit the area - hotel rates are much higher - October is really not a great time to visit because the people you may hope to meet with are busy with harvest activities. If you’re interested in that level of contact, of course. In February, the growing season is imminent, but not an intense activity, and more casual tourism is lower.
And the bonus this time? 70 degree highs and clear skies - although from a grape growing perspective, it was making things happen earlier than usual.
Wineries/Winemakers on the agenda:
Phifer Pavitt
Switchback Ridge
EMH
MACDONALD
Roy Piper
Aaron Pott
Detert
Dakota Shy
VHR
Raymond
Hall
Hestan
Ridge
We did two max visits per day, one AM and/or one PM.
Where we stayed: Napa Vineyard Inn
http://www.napavineyardinn.com/
This is a favorite of ours. A B&B in a renovated farmhouse, just south of Yountville, it’s in a great location; easy to cross to the Silverado Trail side, easy to get to Yountville/Oakville/Rutherford, easy to go south to Oak Knoll and Napa. When most activities don’t start until 10am or 11am each day, and end with dinner, it’s nice to have a comfortable place to hang out.
Day 1:
Phifer Pavitt
Switchback Ridge
These two wineries provide a combined tasting at Phifer Pavitt, although they are otherwise separate. We met Luke, their hospitality manager, at a food and wine event last year, and enjoyed both the wines and also hanging out with Luke as well. Phifer Pavitt has always been buying their grapes from other vineyards, although they have a vineyard on site in Calistoga. Although they started in 2005, these estate vines only went in last summer, in a reflection of the long process required to create and plant a new vineyard.
2016 Phifer Pavitt Date Night Sauvignon Blanc ($30)
From a fresh open. The Wine Advocate recently gave this a rather savage score of 79, meaning “average with little distinction.” I thought it was much better than this, at least well into the next category of “displaying various degrees of finesse and flavor”. That’s fine. I’m still calibrating how LPB scores for the Wine Advocate vs our preferences.
The rest of the wines had been opened the previous day, so they had about 18 hours of exposure already.
2013 Phifer Pavitt Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon ($90)
2014 Phifer Pavitt Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon ($85)
These are sourced from Pope Valley. They were tasted side by side. I’d viewed the Phifer Pavitt approach as being definitively Big Napa with immediate approachability, but this tasting revealed real possibilities for the longer term, especially given that they had been open for 18 hours already. Both had a lot to show now, while also still seeming to indicate more to come. The Mrs preferred the 2013, calling it “cozy” and like “cashmere”.
2014 Phifer Pavitt XRoads ($125)
This comes from a newer source by Yountville Cross Rd and the Silverado Trail. It was a touch softer than the Date Night cabs, more velvety, very compelling at the moment as it had even more dimension and texture.
2014 Switchback Ridge Merlot ($58)
2014 Switchback Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon ($95)
The Switchback Ridge Merlots have always been a winner, especially at their price of $58. They deliver a lot of lushness and expressiveness, whereas other Merlots are less bold, more subtle. No notes on the cab, although it was very good.
Verdict:
Phifer Pavitt - Great now, and looks like it could be great even later.
Switchback Ridge - Our favorite merlot.
Food notes
Lunch: Charter Oak
A newer effort from Restaurant at Meadowood’s Christopher Kostow, located in the south edge of St. Helena. On Sundays they have a brunch menu as well. You think you know what you want to order from the menu, then they wheel out the pastry cart to your table and suddenly you’re eating a lot more. All the food was good, and the Mrs. wants to buy the furniture to boot.
Verdict: An instant favorite.
Dinner: Terra
The first Michelin star of the trip. A Japanese-based, but not exactly Japanese, restaurant. It’s a small but casual feel. In St. Helena. You choose a 4 or more course set from a list of options. My choices:
Lobster Tortelloni - Outstanding
Chawanmushi - Good
Broiled Sake Marinated Black Cod - Outstanding
Ice Cream Sundae - Good
Verdict: We’d do this again.
Day 2 and forward to follow… trying to churn this out before I travel again.