Vilmart Grande Cellier Rubis 2006
Delightful, crunchy Pinot fruit. This didn’t hang around long but most agreed it was top notch Rosé
Krug Grande Cuvée (old gold and red label). I would guess this to be 15+ years old so probably based on an early 1990s year. Everything you’d expect an aged Krug to be. Rich, oxidative, intense. It had a lovely line of cocoa and red fruits which reminded me of a BdN.
With Hokkaido scallops and black truffles
Ramonet Batard Montrachet 1990. Sourced from the domaine.
Still very young. This only began to reveal itself after 3 hours in the decanter. Classic Ramonet cut. Some white fruits but the overall impression is one of minerals and citrus. Some secondary development but still a baby. Beautiful
Coche Dury Meursault Genevrieres 2008. Darker in colour than the Ramonet but not showing any discernible pox. This was quite full, honey, peaches and again mineral infused. It was ‘easier’ to enjoy but ultimately came off second best for most of us.
With black truffle fettuccine
Charmes Chambertin 1966 Nicolas. Corked. Seemed quite weighty and darker than I would have expected. I have another so hopefully I’ll get to drink a clean bottle.
Volnay Clos des Duc d’Angerville 1972
This was a perfect marriage with the truffles . Dusty forest floor, strawberries and clove. A delightful light red in colour, this held up very well for a couple of hours and steadily became more tertiary and dare I say it, truffley.
With a whole rib eye of grass fed Australian Aberdeen Angus
Clos de Vougeot Domaine Leroy 1990. Just as the Ramonet and Krug were archetypal, so was this displaying the lushness and almost OTT richness of 1990, married to the stuffing and gloss of Lalou’s Grand Crus. A deep red colour, this showed spicy toast, dark fruits and even a touch of pepper. It went well with the beef but was a bit too ‘Leroy’ for my liking. Others liked it much more.
Hermitage Paul Etienne 1955
An old-time negoce, whose wines I buy whenever I see them and have rarely been disappointed. This didn’t disappoint either. I’m not sure how good ‘55 was in the N Rhone, but based on his bottle, it must have been pretty good. Pepper, bacon fat, olives, coffee, antique leather and warming Christmas pudding fruits. At first, the palate lagged well behind the nose but after 30 minutes or so, the palate had fattened up and lost its slightly austere edges. A great treat and probably wine of the day for most of us.
Kung Hei Fat Choi !
