Seriously, what is up with this producer? There was a time when Beaucastel was a house favorite, and we bought big (for us) from the '05 vintage on up. Generally, we’ve liked just about every vintage upon release, but none has seemed to age well. Yeah, I know…Most CNdPs don’t age well beyond ten years, or so I’ve heard. But c’mon–Isn’t Beaucastel supposed to be a bit better than the rest?
Last night, we decided to open our last bottle of '07. We bought into the hype of the vintage, and we’ve been opening a bottle or so each year since release. Never truly great, but we held out hope that things would improve. Nope, didn’t happen. Just a perennial tasting note of Dumb & Dumber. Anyway, last night’s '07 was the worst. Truly, just a slap in the face of hot alcohol, tar, and watery dregs from the bottom of the flower box.
So, in attempt to save the night, we open up one of our remaining 2010s and a 2011. Better by comparison, but both were clearly fading fast and delivering nothing out of the absolute ordinary. Again, lots of hot alcohol, tired garrigue, and various other signs of wine that just failed to launch.
In a final, “what the Hell, let’s open everything until we find something we like” moment, we opened up an '07 Clos des Papes that we’ve kept patiently waiting in a cellar spot right next the Beaucastels. The difference as absolutely striking. While I wouldn’t say this totally dispelled my doubts about the region or the vintage, the CdP was head and shoulders better. Richer, multi-dimensional, with balanced fruit and herbs. Sure, I know CdP is a more expensive wine, but it’s not that much more expensive. Side by side, the color was different as well. Clos des Papes a deep crimson, nearly opaque in the glass, while the Beaucastel was a thin, reddish mahogany. I mean, it didn’t even look good.
OK, maybe it’s just me. I checked CellarTracker, and the Beaucastels of vintages noted here are still receiving rave reviews. But honestly, I don’t think this wine stands up to scrutiny…
Thank you. I feel better now.