TN: 2014 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont (France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray)

Alan_Rath · January 31, 2018, 3:33am

2014 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (1/30/2018)
Medium light hay in color, I like the nose on this, with some waxy, savory Chenin notes; there is plenty of intensity on the palate, with excellent acidity, some nice umami richness, but also a sensation of what I can only describe as “brown” flavor. Not overripe, not oxidized, but not quite the fresh, crisp and clean that I expect from a young Huet in a strong vintage. I think this is the second bottle, with similar impressions, don’t know if this is really a long term wine. (89 pts.)

John_Morris · January 31, 2018, 2:17pm

Hmm. Brown flavors. That’s a bit troubling. You know they did have some premox issues in the 2000s – 2002, in particular.

Brad_Kane · January 31, 2018, 2:25pm

Solely, 2002. Let’s stop the premox hysteria anytime there’s not a glowing report of a Vouvray.

David_K2 · January 31, 2018, 2:31pm

I’ve had a couple similar experiences recently with '14 Chidaine. Hopefully they’re just in an awkward spot.

Michae1_P0wers · January 31, 2018, 7:10pm

I had some Chidaine 14s that seemed very oxidized as well.

Jayson_Cohen · January 31, 2018, 11:21pm

I thought the 2014 Huet and Chidaine wines were shutting down starting early last year. These wines, especially the drier ones, can come across as oxidized or dry apple cidery (I think brown would work here too), and extremely grumpy and disjointed, in that state. I think Alan caught this bottle of Huet at the wrong time. These wines need patience if you don’t drink them within a year or so of release.

Jayson_Cohen · January 31, 2018, 11:24pm

Echoing Brad, I’ve never seen or heard of a premoxed 2000 or 2001.

john_stimson · February 1, 2018, 3:49am

There’s a phase here where Loire chenin can seem tired and folks question oxidation, but it’s just a phase, at least certainly for the 2014’s.

Alan_Rath · February 1, 2018, 4:27am

Drinking the remainder of the bottle tonight, hasn’t changed at all (where is that thread where someone insists that wines start to degrade the instant the cork is pulled?). I can go with what Jayson is saying here, just a bit of that oxidized/browned apple. Really, it’s probably just the way the fruit was, not something that is happening in the bottle, because I’ve had a couple of these since release, and they have tasted the same. It’s not really my favorite side of Chenin, I’d prefer a little more crisp and mineral. I’m also to the point where I think there are too many other good Loire Chenin producers out there doing a better job than Huet.

AAgrawal · February 1, 2018, 5:22am

When do people think these 2014s will emerge? Asking as someone with a few Vouvrays, most of which are 2014, which I hadn’t planned on waiting 10 years to drink.

AAgrawal · February 1, 2018, 5:23am

Alan Rath:

Jayson Cohen:

I thought the 2014 Huet and Chidaine wines were shutting down starting early last year. These wines, especially the drier ones, can come across as oxidized or dry apple cidery (I think brown would work here too), and extremely grumpy and disjointed, in that state. I think Alan caught this bottle of Huet at the wrong time. These wines need patience if you don’t drink them within a year or so of release.

Drinking the remainder of the bottle tonight, hasn’t changed at all (where is that thread where someone insists that wines start to degrade the instant the cork is pulled?). I can go with what Jayson is saying here, just a bit of that oxidized/browned apple. Really, it’s probably just the way the fruit was, not something that is happening in the bottle, because I’ve had a couple of these since release, and they have tasted the same. It’s not really my favorite side of Chenin, I’d prefer a little more crisp and mineral. I’m also to the point where I think there are too many other good Loire Chenin producers out there doing a better job than Huet.

Which producers do you tend to like? I’ve only tried a few (Huet, Chidaine, Foreau), and of the few that I’ve tried I’ve liked Huet the best. I know they went through a few years where they had a lot of duds, but the 2014s and 2015s I’ve had have been excellent!

R_Roberts · February 1, 2018, 5:32am

Alan, I’m feeling the same way lately. Though I haven’t had any Huet with real age, if that matters.

Your recommendations on Austrian Riesling were right in my wheelhouse, delivering that crisp minerality in spades. Who are your favorite Chenin producers from the Loire?

Jayson_Cohen · February 1, 2018, 7:00am

I have about 9 cases of Huet wines going back a long time, so I’m all in. Skipped 2011-13. 11 and 12 were especially challenging due in my view to vintage conditions and growing pains after Noel Pinguet retired. 2013 was fine but I sat out. I am very happy with 2014-16 and have no reason to doubt the long-term prospects for these wines. They do shut down, especially the secs.

I also really like Chidaine and Pinon, and an occasional Foreau. I buy these too, especially Chidaine and Pinon. And there are now others doing good work in Vouvray and Montlouis. But I still think Huet is the best.

Michae1_P0wers · February 1, 2018, 2:56pm

I have had three bottles of the Choiselles between January of 2016 and July of 2017, two of which were badly oxidized and one of which was less badly oxidized but still down the drain. These wines were not shut down or cidery. I’m cool with cidery at times, and am currently drinking though a case of OR Chardonnay that I’d call decidedly cidery. These wines were oxidized. Even the positive notes for this wine mention a deep gold color, but I have to say I found that color and the flavor way too much into the brown spectrum.

I’ve had no problems with Huet, and wish I had more in my cellar.

Jayson_Cohen · February 1, 2018, 3:57pm

Michae1 P0wers:

Jayson Cohen:

I thought the 2014 Huet and Chidaine wines were shutting down starting early last year. These wines, especially the drier ones, can come across as oxidized or dry apple cidery (I think brown would work here too), and extremely grumpy and disjointed, in that state. I think Alan caught this bottle of Huet at the wrong time. These wines need patience if you don’t drink them within a year or so of release.

I have had three bottles of the Choiselles between January of 2016 and July of 2017, two of which were badly oxidized and one of which was less badly oxidized but still down the drain. These wines were not shut down or cidery. I’m cool with cidery at times, and am currently drinking though a case of OR Chardonnay that I’d call decidedly cidery. These wines were oxidized. Even the positive notes for this wine mention a deep gold color, but I have to say I found that color and the flavor way too much into the brown spectrum.

I’ve had no problems with Huet, and wish I had more in my cellar.

That’s very disturbing. I didn’t cellar 2014 Choisilles but had a couple good bottles through early 2017, and had been comsideing backfilling. Your report makes me think twice. Wonder if that is others’ experience too.

David_K2 · February 1, 2018, 4:02pm

Jayson Cohen:

Michae1 P0wers:

Jayson Cohen:

I thought the 2014 Huet and Chidaine wines were shutting down starting early last year. These wines, especially the drier ones, can come across as oxidized or dry apple cidery (I think brown would work here too), and extremely grumpy and disjointed, in that state. I think Alan caught this bottle of Huet at the wrong time. These wines need patience if you don’t drink them within a year or so of release.

I have had three bottles of the Choiselles between January of 2016 and July of 2017, two of which were badly oxidized and one of which was less badly oxidized but still down the drain. These wines were not shut down or cidery. I’m cool with cidery at times, and am currently drinking though a case of OR Chardonnay that I’d call decidedly cidery. These wines were oxidized. Even the positive notes for this wine mention a deep gold color, but I have to say I found that color and the flavor way too much into the brown spectrum.

I’ve had no problems with Huet, and wish I had more in my cellar.

That’s very disturbing. I didn’t cellar 2014 Choisilles but had a couple good bottles through early 2017, and had been comsideing backfilling. Your report makes me think twice. Wonder if that is others’ experience too.

I had a bottle of the 2014 Choisilles in January 2017 and found it wanting. I wouldn’t call it oxidized, but looking back at my TN I wrote that it had a “surprisingly burnished gold color.” Was kind of flat.

The last Chidaines I’ve had are 2014 Bournais – which was pretty good – and the 2014 Breuil, which was OK but not as good as on release. Both of these were drank mid-2017. While neither was thrilling, both were better than the Choisilles.

Jayson_Cohen · February 1, 2018, 4:05pm

David_K:

Jayson Cohen:

Michae1 P0wers:

I have had three bottles of the Choiselles between January of 2016 and July of 2017, two of which were badly oxidized and one of which was less badly oxidized but still down the drain. These wines were not shut down or cidery. I’m cool with cidery at times, and am currently drinking though a case of OR Chardonnay that I’d call decidedly cidery. These wines were oxidized. Even the positive notes for this wine mention a deep gold color, but I have to say I found that color and the flavor way too much into the brown spectrum.

I’ve had no problems with Huet, and wish I had more in my cellar.

That’s very disturbing. I didn’t cellar 2014 Choisilles but had a couple good bottles through early 2017, and had been comsideing backfilling. Your report makes me think twice. Wonder if that is others’ experience too.

I had a bottle of the 2014 Choisilles in January 2017 and found it wanting. I wouldn’t call it oxidized, but looking back at my TN I wrote that it had a “surprisingly burnished gold color.” Was kind of flat.

The last Chidaines I’ve had are 2014 Bournais – which was pretty good – and the 2014 Breuil, which was OK but not as good as on release. Both of these were drank mid-2017. While neither was thrilling, both were better than the Choisilles.

I cellared a few bottles of the Clos Habert, which has always been my go-to Chidaine DS, so we will see.

David_K2 · February 1, 2018, 4:06pm

The '15 Habert is unreal. Missed out on the '14.

Alan_Rath · February 1, 2018, 5:22pm

Taille Aux Loups and Guiberteau are the two I’ve been most impressed by recently. Neither has much presence on the west coast, but you can find them if you look.

Brad_Kane · February 1, 2018, 5:44pm

I’m pretty much in line with Jayson. Of course, we’ve been drinking Chenin together for around 20 years at this point…

I’ve always found the Taille au Loups too oaky and I think they consistently pick too early. I’ve also never had a Saumur Chenin that I’ve found remotely close in quality to that of a top Vouvray producer and that includes Clos Rougeard, which I also find way too oaky, but ymmv.