2015 Paris Cornas La Geynale versus 2012 Cuchet-Beliando Cornas.
One might say, new school versus old school.
Yes I am popping some youngsters, but it is as much for assessment as enjoyment. The Geynale I am popping primarily as a result of John Morris’ thread on 2015 Northern Rhones, but to be candid, as much as I like mature wines, I enjoy young and chewy wines too.
I’ve not been a huge fan of Paris’ 30 and 60 bottlings, finding them too glossy for my country palate. Some recent bottlings of Geynale, however, especially 2011 and 2012, have hit my spot. You have a killer vineyard inherited from Robert Michel, a reknown Cornas producer, plus total stem inclusion, which I think 30 does not see and 60 has some. This 2015 Geynale brings Paris more in the modern camp to me, the level of ripeness and extraction is big, but the overall heft of this beastly wine pulls it off. It has structure for days, a wall of tannins, good acid as well. This is a long-haul wine. Purple, inky darkness, a really deep and layered wine. Showing some tar, smoke, stemmy pungency, a balance of black and red fruits, but admittedly more dark. Not picking up much else beyond the primary, whether it be black olives, iron or game, just needs time. Alcohol is labeled at 14%, it shows a liquor richness but is not hot. (91+ Pts.)
Next to the Cuchet it falls a notch below, at least for my palate. These are such fundamentally different wines. I have no experience with this tiny, old school producer, but am seriously liking what this 2012 shows, and what it does not show: wood. As in no wood. This wine touches not a lick of oak. Not even used oak. It is aged in concrete for 6 years, and I think 2012 is the most recent release. More on the red spectrum of fruits, some plummy darks. Fresh, decent acid, but more soft and sensual in texture. Has a wet earthy, mineral quality to it, like tilled soil after a summer shower. While I have no doubt this wine will age based on the elegant structural qualities, it’s quite enjoyable right now. A nuanced, intellectual wine. (93 pts.)
The Paris is the crowd-pleaser, a dinner party wine; the Cuchet is the one you take home to a good book.
Think of it as beauty (Cuchet) and the beast (Paris).