A Couple Cornas: 2015 Paris Geynale, 2012 Cuchet-Beliando

2015 Paris Cornas La Geynale versus 2012 Cuchet-Beliando Cornas.

One might say, new school versus old school.

Yes I am popping some youngsters, but it is as much for assessment as enjoyment. The Geynale I am popping primarily as a result of John Morris’ thread on 2015 Northern Rhones, but to be candid, as much as I like mature wines, I enjoy young and chewy wines too.

I’ve not been a huge fan of Paris’ 30 and 60 bottlings, finding them too glossy for my country palate. Some recent bottlings of Geynale, however, especially 2011 and 2012, have hit my spot. You have a killer vineyard inherited from Robert Michel, a reknown Cornas producer, plus total stem inclusion, which I think 30 does not see and 60 has some. This 2015 Geynale brings Paris more in the modern camp to me, the level of ripeness and extraction is big, but the overall heft of this beastly wine pulls it off. It has structure for days, a wall of tannins, good acid as well. This is a long-haul wine. Purple, inky darkness, a really deep and layered wine. Showing some tar, smoke, stemmy pungency, a balance of black and red fruits, but admittedly more dark. Not picking up much else beyond the primary, whether it be black olives, iron or game, just needs time. Alcohol is labeled at 14%, it shows a liquor richness but is not hot. (91+ Pts.)

Next to the Cuchet it falls a notch below, at least for my palate. These are such fundamentally different wines. I have no experience with this tiny, old school producer, but am seriously liking what this 2012 shows, and what it does not show: wood. As in no wood. This wine touches not a lick of oak. Not even used oak. It is aged in concrete for 6 years, and I think 2012 is the most recent release. More on the red spectrum of fruits, some plummy darks. Fresh, decent acid, but more soft and sensual in texture. Has a wet earthy, mineral quality to it, like tilled soil after a summer shower. While I have no doubt this wine will age based on the elegant structural qualities, it’s quite enjoyable right now. A nuanced, intellectual wine. (93 pts.)

The Paris is the crowd-pleaser, a dinner party wine; the Cuchet is the one you take home to a good book.

Think of it as beauty (Cuchet) and the beast (Paris).

“Beast” seems an unfair word for the Paris. I know you are not the biggest fan, but the wines are not outsized monsters.

I have only ever had one glass of Cuchet in my life, so cannot really comment on your “beauty” reference.

Read in context, “beast” is not a pejorative. Certainly was not intended to be, and the scoring reflects it. This is a huge wine, however. Oops, now I’m fat-shaming it…

Even The Wine Advocate calls it a “big time tannin pig”.

Looks like Bobby has been re-Bueked.

Just gabbing

Bobby, Buek will have to corroborate all your notes b4 they have even the slightest hint of validity.

I also find the Paris wines, while correct, are kind of glossy and polished. Whenever I try one I find it enjoyable enough but never, ever think “I need more of these,” as I do with many other producers.

Thanks for the note on the Geynale Robert. I picked up a mixed case of this and the Granit 60 from HDH for very sharp pricing. Sounds like it has a promising future and as I’m finding with many '15s just needs more time. Hope I live that long!

Snagged a 2013 Cuchet-Beliando Cornas today and it said it’s now aged for two years in old oak–which I think I prefer to no oak. Anyone know if this is correct?

Thanks for the notes.

I’ve never had a Cuchet, but I don’t know how “old school” 100% concrete tank aging is. Verset, Clape, etc., all used oak.

Never even heard of Cuchet before. Does he have cachet?

Never heard of Cuchet-Beliando before, too. But thanks for the TN.

Anyway, apologies for the slight drift, as I just received an email from a local merchant selling 2 different producers Saint Joseph that, what I interpreted from their emails as being old-school. A few months ago, I remember there were posts here bemoaning the lack or, or of very limited, old-school Northern Rhone producers.

Now it seems like everyone’s selling old-school Northern Rhones. Go figure.

Not if you has anything to do with it.

Interesting timing here as Lyle Fass just sent out an offer for the ‘13 today. From his email, “…aged for 5 years before release. Cuchet raises it traditionally in old barrels for 2 years and then holds it back in bottles for 3 years.” Even though I’m on the wine buying wagon, I fell off long enough to grab some of these.

tsk, tsk, tsk

No worries Neal as it was just a very brief bump in the road. I’m comfortably back on the wagon…for now anyway.

Neal is just being jelly roll here!

I shoulda never post a noted!

Hey bruh, I have 3 of these. Will last me a lifetime

Weird. If you read any note on them it says aged 100% in concrete. Not sure they’d suddenly change what they are doing?

Lyle has been hot on them from the get go so maybe he knows more.

As far as I know Lyle is the only person importing this into the states, so my money would be on Lyle.